Injector pump shut-off cover removal

[oddshot]

The end of my injector pump shut off rod is broken off where the shut off cable attaches.


I need to take off the cover and see what I have to do to repair/replace the rod.


I check the manual (TM 9-2910-226-34 Injector Pump Manual) and on page 3-1 it indicates that I just remove the two screws holding the cover on and cover and gasket come off.


Is there anything else I should know about the removal and reinstall of this cover assembly?

Is anything else gonna fall out or jump out at me when I loosen those two screws?

Any internal hookups or adjustments to put it back together?


Once I have it off … I should be able to fashion some type of repair. I have a lathe, drill presses and other machinery to make whatever I need to repair this shaft/rod


I know that I’ve seen a thread on this procedure recently, I did a search but I can’t find it.


Thanks


oddshot

 

[gimpyrobb]

Just take the 2 screws/bolts off and it will flop to the side. If you can't fix it, I have parts.

 

[Seth_O]

No surprises in taking it off. I had mine off a bit ago, I think I had a little bit of oil spillage and I had to take a minute to figure out how to get all the pieces back in and hooked up correctly (the shut off cable slides into a bracket.) But I don't recall anything spring-loaded that was at risk of shooting off into never-never land.

 

[oddshot]

I don't recall anything spring-loaded that was at risk of shooting off into never-never land.

Don't you just HATE IT when some little widget shoots out screamin' in a high pitched squeeky voice:

"YOU WON'T SEE ME NO MORE...!!!!"

and then ... its gone ...

Forever.

*sigh*

Thanks guys!

oddshot

 

[oddshot]

Just take the 2 screws/bolts off and it will flop to the side. If you can't fix it, I have parts.

I got it apart and repaired today ...

Apparently somebody else tried to take it off and gave up ... the screw slots were pretty badly beaten up.

When I got it off, I was surprised to see that the rod was frozen in the housing ... there was about 5/16 of the rod sticking out of the cover.

I took it down into the shop ... freed up the rod and disassembled everything, then I cleaned up the rod and its bushing so it could work freely.

I chucked the rod into my lathe ... turned down the last 5/16 inch of the end of the shut-off rod and threaded it to 1/4-20.

Then I made a rod-clevis to screw on the end of the shut off rod, and a barrel bolt to go in the end of the clevis ... this is where the shutoff cable end will attach.

I lubed every thing up, reassembled the housing and put it on the injector pump. Installed the cable ... and gave it a try.

Couldn't be better.

Bright Georgia sunshine today ... temps in the mid 60's. A real good day.

I think me and this old Mother Duck are gonna get on just fine.

Thanks again for the help.

oddshot

 

[Pooch1128]

Wheres the pictures, SOUNDS like a good fix, but....

 

[Farmun]

Got our fuel shut off cover off this morning also, but I wasn't brave enough to start taking things loose inside of it. Everything seemed to be working fine in there, nothing loose, and the lever would pop back forward with good force, after moving it toward the rear.

Reason I pulled the cover was to see if something was sticking inside. Truck will crank, and crank, and crank till the batteries are depleted, but will not start. She won't even fire off on starting fluid right now. At my wit's end with this thing! She may be listed in the classifieds before too long !!!

 

[gimpyrobb]

Oh, not firing from starting fluid sounds way bad. Did it just stop running one day?

 

[Farmun]

No, every time I've gotten it started, which has been getting more and more difficult to do, it runs fine. It's been snowy and cold for quite some weeks now, and I haven't been running it but once every 2-3 weeks since Thanksgiving. Two weeks ago, it just wouldn't start. Been messing with it on and off since then: installed new filters, pulled the in-tank pump - it pumps some, peeked inside the fuel cutoff cover - didn't look gummed up, but no luck getting it started. The odd thing is no fuel is getting up to the secondary filters. I filled them today, hoping the IP could start pulling from the tank, but it still wouldn't start. I was kinda of lean on the starting fluid though, as I didn't want to mess something up that wasn't already.

I do have a habit of pulling the engine stop/fuel cutoff and leaving it locked back (clicked in place). Hoping that didn't leave something in the IP locked in place and not allowing fuel to get to the secondary filters. ????????

 

[gimpyrobb]

It could get hung in the "fuel off" area, but with starting fluid, it should fire. It is a GOOD PRACTICE to leave the fuel shutoff handle in the "off" position, as the trucks are VERY easy to bump start. Sometimes getting harder and harder to start indicates the hydraulic head is going out. I would start with the ether. Once turning over, spray it into the intake for a good 3 seconds. If that doesn't get it to fire, you have other problems than the hydraulic head(I think). Once it fires off that, its time to trouble shoot the fuel system.

 

[Floridianson]

Farmun what do you mean you filled them. You used the intank pump and bleed the air out right?

 

[gimpyrobb]

It is possible to pull the can bolt and fill the can through said missing bolt hole while holding the can in place. It sucks to do, but I have done it before.

 

[Floridianson]

It just sounded like he filled the cans by hand or something and did not perge air using intank?

 

[oddshot]

Wheres the pictures, SOUNDS like a good fix, but....

So ya' wanna make an old man climb up on a fender just to take a dang PICTURE?!?!?

No Probs!!

Just excuse the mess ... I ain't power washed or cleaned nothing yet.


oddshot

 

[gimpyrobb]

6x cleaner than my truck.

 

[Pooch1128]

Thankx for pics. sorry but no I didn't mean foryou to have to climb up on the truck to take pics. I was kinda hoping for pics with the IP open so I could see inside....but good fix anyways...

 

[Farmun]

Been busy most of the day....

Farmun what do you mean you filled them. You used the intank pump and bleed the air out right? Actually, I was going to drop them from the bottom of the mount, fill them with clean diesel, and bolt them back up. Decided I would try to fill from the bleeder valve. Used a quart bottle with small spout, and put about a gallon and half through the bleeder valve. I know the cans got some fuel, because when I opened the drain valves on them, diesel came forth.

It just sounded like he filled the cans by hand or something and did not perge air using intank? I can't get any flow up to the secondary cans with the in-tank pump. It spits some fuel, but not much. Can't really tell any difference at the primary filter drain when the pump is running and when it's not.

 

[Floridianson]

There is one of your problems. You have to get the in tank running and pumping. We bleed the system this way and once bled the motor can run if the intank fails just don't open up the system and let air in.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Have you checked the primary? Have you checked to see if the fuel line going over to the IP from the primary is crushed?

 

[Farmun]

Have you checked the primary? Have you checked to see if the fuel line going over to the IP from the primary is crushed?

The primary filter is getting some fuel. But there's no difference in the amount coming out of the drain valve when the acc switch is on or off. The fuel lines running from the tank to the primary are intact, per visual inspection. Same for the lines from the primary to the bottom of the IP. Ditto for the lines from the IP to the secondaries.

I've read (due to many hours of searching/reading on here) where low air pressure in the fuel tank could push the fuel through the system and purge the air. Thinking leaf blower...

After that, it might be time to start disconnecting the fuel lines at each connection starting from the tank, to see if fuel is getting to each with the acc switch on.

One more thing, when good batteries are in service, how many 15 second attempts would normally occur before they are depleted, and spin the motor very, very slow? I get about 3 good attempts, then the batteries have to be recharged. One at a time, and it gets really annoying.... I would/could invest in some new batteries, if I could get more starting attempts than I currently do with the ones I have now.