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Wheel Well Rust

ssgtcampbell77

Staff Sergeant
227
1
0
Location
St Louis MO
I have looked all over this site but havent found any answers to my issue. I have an 85' M1008. On both front wheel wells, closest to the cab, have 6"x6" rust holes. This area has been patched at least three or four times (as is evident by the 3 or 4 layers of sheet metal). I am going to cut the metal back, spray it with a rust inhibiter and weld new patched in. Does anyone have any tricks or tips to keep from having to re-do this again in 5 years? thanks in advance.
 

hndrsonj

Senior Chief/Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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CUCV's are notorious for rusting. If you drive them in the winter they will rust out again. Make sure you cut all the bad metal out and undercoat it well.
 

Hasdrubal

New member
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Vancouver BC
Why not replace the fenders? Even good clean used ones will do. If you are intent on repairing, cut back the metal until you have no rust showing. grind off the paint several inches from the cut line. If there's an area thats still rusted, more than surface rust, ie ; a grinder wont remove it. Rent a sandblaster that has a vacuum attatched. Its the best way to remove rust which will be pitted in the metal. Dont trust inhibitors, they only work on light surface rust and will not get it all out. If you dont want to or cant find a sand blaster you can work on the pitting with a small pointed die grinder tip.

As for welding the metal, do you have any experience sheet metal welding? If not, consider getting someone who is skilled to do it for you. Unless you just want to spot weld a patch on. You will get quite a bit of heat distortion. The trick is to shrink the metal after, which has expanded. Its a bit of a lost art form in these days of "bondo everything" and generally poor workmanship in the industry. If you are really into it, I could describe this process to you.

After you're done sand blast all the welded areas, so there is no discoloration left, it looks all white and all the pits and imperfections in your welds are clean. Then prime both sides, I like to use rustoleum red oxide. You can use the filler of your choice on the outside, make it straight, no deep scratches , then prime, final finer grade sanding, then youre ready for paint. On the inside , use a seam sealer on the welded areas, then undercoat with a thick rockguard. If its in an internal area you can spray wax-oil in there. This will last indefinetly!
 

dstang97

Well-known member
1,859
30
48
Location
Clover, SC
Those always rust out. what I did was go to wallmart or home depot and buy a gallon of rustoleum black. that will be your friend. just slop it on with a cheap brush. The reason they rust out is the design of the overlap water gets behind and they rot. You could get some black silicone or RTV and go around the triangle piece. You are better off buying new ones.
 

ssgtcampbell77

Staff Sergeant
227
1
0
Location
St Louis MO
I have been welding for 15 years so Ive got that covered and the holes are under the wheel well so Im not to concerned with fine tune sanding. I just can't figure out how to stop it from rusting out again. Ive looked at hundreds of CUCs over the years and they all rust in the exact same spots....looks like where the road film and water kick up off the tires. There must be some sort of chemical that I can use to at least curb this issue for awhile. But on your point, where would I rent a sandblaster? I am in Missouri and havent found anyone renting them. I built my own parts blaster but I don't really wanna build a whole other blaster for this project alone.
 

82ABNMP

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
556
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Location
Winston Salem NC
inner fender

You can buy new inner fenders from LMC for $49.95ea.
LMC Truck Parts - Page 21

The reason they rust is because of the access panel right behind the tire on the inner fender, water and dirt get trapped there and rust out the fender. What I want to know is where to get the new panel that bolts on to the inner fender?

David
 

ranchhopper

Well-known member
1,630
136
63
Location
south elgin illinois
Those probably have not been patched before they are a couple layers thick for reinforcement because they hold the inner fender to the cab. They are rust prone because the inner fender makes contact with the cab at that point and the dirt and debris build up behind it. They are cheap enough to just replace get some spray on rust proofer and go over where the fender bolts to the inner fender as well as where the inner fender bolts to the cab it will buy you a few years with the new inner fenders. There is a place near me selling CUCVs and I noticed they cut pieces of sheetmetal and use self tapping screws to cover those holes then paints it all so it matches when buying 73-87 chevy trucks look very carefully at that point if they are rusty there there is sure to be other bad spots elswhere too.
 

ssgtcampbell77

Staff Sergeant
227
1
0
Location
St Louis MO
Yeah, I suppose it would be easier to get new wheel wells but has anyone replaced them and tested the durability? Will a new one last any longer?
 

Flyingvan911

Well-known member
4,709
158
63
Location
Kansas City, MO
You could take them somewhere and have them galvanized. I know it might be a pain to paint but if the job is done well, they'll last a long time.
 

ranchhopper

Well-known member
1,630
136
63
Location
south elgin illinois
Most available are cheap chinese junk that doesnt fit right but I cruise the junkyards once or twice a month and manage to find some real nice OE inner fenders. Look for the suburbans up to 91 most were a family vehicle and well taken care of I can usually get good hoods and other sheetmetal off those. If you buy after market inner fenders prime and paint them good and buy several cans of rubberized undercoat and spray it along where the two fenders bolt together over the wheels one word of advise wear gloves while wrestling them together cheap aftermarket sheet metal is razor sharp on the edges'
 

XJfreakHO

New member
20
0
0
Location
Greensboro NC
Glad to see this thread, as this was the worst patch of rust I found on the new m1008, the driver fenderwell has about a 5x5 rust hole.

Hole thing has some surface rust but I am not too worried about that.

Thanks
 

ssgtcampbell77

Staff Sergeant
227
1
0
Location
St Louis MO
Most available are cheap chinese junk that doesnt fit right but I cruise the junkyards once or twice a month and manage to find some real nice OE inner fenders. Look for the suburbans up to 91 most were a family vehicle and well taken care of I can usually get good hoods and other sheetmetal off those. If you buy after market inner fenders prime and paint them good and buy several cans of rubberized undercoat and spray it along where the two fenders bolt together over the wheels one word of advise wear gloves while wrestling them together cheap aftermarket sheet metal is razor sharp on the edges'
Good advice. Just wish I had read your post before I bought the aftermarket crap. 4 stiches in the meaty portion of my right hand. aua
 

emr

New member
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Location
landing , new jersey
they will sure last longer if U keep em hosed off after running in mud snow and dirt, that is a no brainer, did the in service trucks hit the wash rack after every outing ,,, NO... so yes they will last longer if U take care of them, as for undercoating its a place for moisture to hide and eat everything away under it, like said in many posts rustoleum rusty mettle primer and black top coat is superior to anything else, yes por 15 too, i have had both on stuff for like 20 years and rustoleum wins hands down and rustoleum is an oil base so it covers even axles and stays on, por come right off oil soaked axles, even when pressure washed, oil gets in steel and stays there, rusty is the product that works... and it just makes sense that if U cut out all the bad rusty mettle, and weld in new, and do not cover with undercoat , and keep it clean it has to last , it always does on my stuff....
 
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