• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Pyle 24V to 12V converter

Gunfreak25

Well-known member
1,561
620
113
Location
Yuma, AZ
Voltage converter installation help

I installed this converter in my M211 so I can keep the 455's ignition 12V and the rest of the truck stock 24V. I was told this would work just fine. I have everything wired in, it was super easy. Except for 1 wire which I can't figure out.

PSWNV720, Pyle PSWNV720, Pyle Power Inverters, Pyle Power Inverters

I have the 24V INPUT, 24V GROUND and 12V OUTPUT wired into the truck, that just leaves the 12V GROUND which I cannot figure out what to hook up to? Can it be grounded in the same spot as the 24V GROUND or does the 12V have to be isolated? Unfortunately PYLE audio does not have a manual on this item yet nor did it come with one.
 
Last edited:

mistaken1

New member
1,467
6
0
Location
Kansas City, KS
I can't say what Pyle needs but it seems to me that the 12V and 24V ground should be the same.

Most 12V equipment is negative ground meaning the negative input is bonded (connected) to the equipment housing somewhere inside the equipment so that when it bolts to the vehicle chassis the equipment housing is electrically bonded to the vehicle chassis as well. (electrons flow from negative to positive)

If the 12V ground was isolated that would mean your negative ground equipment would need to be isolated from the vehicle chassis as well meaning you could not bolt it to any metal part of the vehicle. That would also mean that a volt meter would show some level of voltage between the equipment housing and the vehicle chassis which is not a good thing (if you get between bare metal of the equipment housing and bare metal of the vehicle chassis you will become a volt meter, it does not take much current across the heart to kill a human).

I vote for 12V ground and 24V ground being the same but call Pyle to verify before making final connections.
 

wikallen

New member
461
3
0
Location
IA
Just leave the 12v gound terminal empty, of if you like run it to your chassis. You would use your chassis for your ground on your equipment. If you take your multimeter at your +12v and your chassis, you should see that you have 12vdc without the 12v ground connected to anything.
 
Last edited:

Gunfreak25

Well-known member
1,561
620
113
Location
Yuma, AZ
Thanks for replies! I will go ahead and ground the 12V in the same spot as the 24V ground. This was how I initially thought it should be.

On a side note I may actually convert the ignition itself over to 24V. Never heard of a 455 with 24V ignition so it would be super unique. I ran this by the guys at the Olds forum and was told it's not a big deal at all. All i need is a 24V coil/condenser from any old M series vehicle and it would just fine. I was told a distributor sees secondary voltage from the the coil so it wouldn't be any higher than what an HEI distributor throws at the wires and plugs. I could then save the converter for 12V stuff like radios and other gadgets instead of relying on it for my ignition.

How cool would that be!
 
Last edited:

m16ty

Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,580
218
63
Location
Dickson,TN
On a side note I may actually convert the ignition itself over to 24V.
I like that idea. I'm running a civilain 12v ignition on my M715 via the 24v/12v converter. I've had a couple of problems with my converter and associated wiring that left my truck dead in the water. Running ignition through the converter just makes things more complicated than it needs to be IMO. I've been looking into changing my ignition back to 24v.
 

Gunfreak25

Well-known member
1,561
620
113
Location
Yuma, AZ
Oh man, your signature cracks me up. :lol: Reminds me of the time I was making a post on stock work and I was describing a particular wood file I like to use. The forum filter changed it to "father unknown file". Guess that one...........

Since I already have the converter wired in I am just going to leave it that way for now. I went ahead and grounded the 12V to spot on the dash where the 24V wire is grounded. If it ever gives me issues i'll definitely be doing the 24V ignition thing though. It is probably the recommendation I would make to the next person who wants to do an engine swap in a Military Vehicle.
 

Rustygears

New member
394
6
0
Location
Ramona, CA
I have a Pyle PSWNV720 converter. You can and should connect the input negative and output negative to the vehicle negative. This way, you can use standard 12V car devices that expect negative ground without any problems.
 

mistaken1

New member
1,467
6
0
Location
Kansas City, KS
I grounded both on the dash, is that okay?
Did you scrape the the paint to get the terminal to bare metal, or install a hardened tooth lock washer between the terminal and the dash to get a good electrical connection?

I have had good luck with self drilling screws and toothed lock washers.
 

Gunfreak25

Well-known member
1,561
620
113
Location
Yuma, AZ
I attached them to a bolt that's already on the firewall, I made sure it was not painted underneath. I appreciate all the replies! I try not to take these forums for granted......
 

quickfarms

Well-known member
3,495
25
48
Location
Orange Junction, CA
It depends on the stereo and amp.

Read the power requirements for each and see if the converter can handle it with some power to spare.

You will also need to check the converter to make sure the power rating in continious and not surge.
 

sbkarmen

New member
32
3
0
Location
victorville CA
the stereo has a 4 channel 54 watt, so I'm figuring 216 total watts and gonna put 2 200 watt amps in it. I'm hoping that should do it, I'm hoping worse case 2 of them should do the trick.
I've a picture somewhere on here where he had 2 pyle converters hooked up to his amp and his stereo, gotta find it.
 

juanprado

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,614
2,923
113
Location
Metairie/La (N'awlins)
On another thread a member stated his 5 ton m939 ran the batteries down after installing a 24-12 converter and sitting up. Is this normal?

Do I need to install a switch and Kill it while not running so the batts don't drain?

I would appreciate your advise.
 

ARYankee

Well-known member
1,983
33
48
Location
Benton, AR
On another thread a member stated his 5 ton m939 ran the batteries down after installing a 24-12 converter and sitting up. Is this normal?

Do I need to install a switch and Kill it while not running so the batts don't drain?

I would appreciate your advise.
Yes, you need a switch because the converter is still drawing power from the batteries. Now its not much but after a long period of time along with weak batteries, it will drain them. I plan on adding a converter to my 923 but I plan on using the battery switch to power it. I plan on splicing into wire # 459 off of the battery switch. It supplies 24 volts to the protective control box.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks