Fuel dripping out of this thing

[dcwilkie]

I think this is some sort of servo valve and has to do with the manifold pre-heat system, but I'm just not sure. I need you help, experts!

Fuel is dripping out of this (see pic). The closest I could find in the TMs is a fuel servo having to do with the manifold pre-heat system. I think it says "SERVO BODY" on the side, but can't make out the p/n. This is located on the r/h side of the engine.
All advice and source for a new one solicited.
BTW, it was the cause of all the smoke in the cab. The fuel was dripping right on the turbo housing (gasp).

 

[WillWagner]

That is the intake heater injector. You can cap it off at the fuel pump if you don't need it.

 

[Flyingvan911]

That is your manifold heater fuel nozzle. It is like a cigarette lighter to heat the cold air coming into the engine. It's used for cold weather starting. Another common problem is the nozzle letting fuel into the crankcase.

Mine leaked too. I capped off the fuel lines with NPT caps and put NPT plugs in the nozzle. There are a few threads about how to repair it if you want to. I found it alot simpler to use a squirt of starting fluid in the winter instead of fighting the manifold heater.

 

[ApopkaFL]

I found it alot simpler to use a squirt of starting fluid in the winter instead of fighting the manifold heater.

Did you know the M35A3 New design came with starting fluid bottle on the system you can deploy it from inside the cab if needed? I do not think florida will ever get that cold where it is needed. If I can remember when I go to the shop in the morning ill take some photos of it.

 

[rrrr]

Mine was leaking also. I removed it and took it apart and cleaned it. Got a replacement rear seal not an exact fit hopefully it will take care of it. If not I will probably disconnect it at the fuel pump.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

I had a problem with the small plastic tubing connected to mine when I was removing the injector for o-ring replacement. Anyone know where you can buy new tubing?

 

[Flyingvan911]

Most hardware stores should have the tubing. I wouldn't want to put an either system on my truck. I'd be worried that one day it would dump half the can into the engine and fuel the ensuing fire with what's left after the explosion.

 

[dcwilkie]

Thanks y'all. I'll cap it at the pump, pull it off and save it for the next Ice Age in Alabama.

 

[doghead]

You could have found that in your TM.

 

[dcwilkie]

You could have found that in your TM.

I looked and found something similar, but wanted to be sure, so I turned to the experts here. I didn't know I had to do this hobby alone.

 

[doghead]

You don't have to do it alone. The -20P and -34P are simply pictures and part numbers. They are kinda fun to look at. A lot can be learned from all the TMs. Just mentioned it. Not on your case or anything.

If you plug the supply at the bottom of the IP, I suggest you also replace the center return line with a new piece(simply remove the Tee) to eliminate the return line for the fuel burning cold start system, also.

 

[rlwm211]

You should use a DOT approved line for the fuel return lines. I seem to recall that the DOT lines are rated for exposure to fuel and petroleum products and would hold up better. The poly stuff at the hardware does not have the liner that is designed to cope with the petrochemicals.

The size for the return is 1/4 inch and I get mine at the Napa and it is normally air line but works great for this. Chances are it will not be clear.

Just my two cents

RL

 

[Westech]

I just replaced all my fuel lines with 250 PSI flex Loc hose. all my junker tubing was leaking along with the fuel heater injector.

 

[doghead]

The nozzle is also pretty easy to "rebuild" with commonly available orings.

I posted a link earlier today that has great pictures and info on rebuilding it.

I think I searched "Fuel Nozzle leak"

 

[DUECE-COUPE]

have fun with the fitting on the bottom of the I.P. I took a diesel bath when I took mine out. make sure you have the right plug for it as well or you will be putting the old fitting back in till you get the right stuff. After I got it removed, I used a piece of the tube to fix the return line as well. the whole thing was a PIA. best advice get a new one ore rebuild the old one so you don't have to go through all that work over an "O" ring seal.

 

[glcaines]

Did you know the M35A3 New design came with starting fluid bottle on the system you can deploy it from inside the cab if needed? I do not think florida will ever get that cold where it is needed. If I can remember when I go to the shop in the morning ill take some photos of it.

A lot of A2 have the same ether system, including mine. A2s start so easy, even in cold weather, that ether is seldom needed. My A3 needs ether much more often than my A2.

 

[rlwm211]

I found it, I found it

Doghead...This one????​

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/19455-fuel-nozzle-leak.html​

Hey, that search function really works!!!!!!!!!​

​

​

RL​

 

[doghead]

Yeah, that's the thread. Those guys did a nice job posting great pics in that thread.


That bottom plug is not all that bad to put in. I think the last one I did, I used a brass plug that had a hex drive(allen wrench) and I used a ball end wrench and it was not bad at all.

I think that's what i did..

 

[Flyingvan911]

Just curious since we're on the subject... I am planning to put a boost gauge and pyro on my deuce. I want to plumb the boost hose into the 1/8 npt hole at the top of the intake pipe. Will the flame heater make enough heat to damage the plastic tubing? I think I might use copper tubing.

Edit: I bought some copper tubing yesterday. I wasn't sure if I'd find any that small.