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reassembled column = horn stays on

clinto

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After searching for a good hour, I have learned everything there is to know about CUCV horn diodes and that there are over half a dozen threads about off-centered steering wheels................ and there are lots of folks who can't get their horns to work, but nothing like what I have. I can't get my horn to stop working.

So I had to do a ton of stuff to clintogf's M1009: Had to replace the instrument cluster (bad printed circuit board-thanks hovenga67), found a broken wiring harness ground wire under the dash (thanks Westech), had to replace the ignition switch (thanks Mangus580), etc.

In the process of doing this, the rod that actuates the dimmer switch fell out so I had to break the column down to get it back in.

I hit the snag putting everything back together. It appears to me that these vehicles don't have a positive stop for the steering wheel to bottom out against. I didn't have any "left over" parts when I put everything back together. On all the vehicles I have serviced in the past, the steering wheel would bottom out before the nut did. This kept you from over tightening the steering wheel and putting it on too deep.

When I put the nut on this one, it sucked the wheel all the way down on to the column to the point that it didn't turn freely-obviously too tight.

So I pulled it off until it looked and felt right, then finished reassembling it.

Now the horn is stuck on whenever the lights are on. I can spin the steering wheel back and forth and the horn will click, so I know the wheel is the issue.

So what did I do wrong? Do I need to just pull the wheel "up" until the horn stops blowing or did I miss a component that controls the depth of the wheel on the steering shaft?

Thanks

C
 

Westech

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Clint its VERY hard to tell whats going on with a post over the net. I would take it apart and just look at the horn wire and tap plate. You stated the wheel got too tight and was not able to turn free... I have never seen that before. Sounds like something is a miss. If you take a couple of Pictures when you disassemble it and post then I will do my best to figure it out. I have done one or two of them[thumbzup]
 

doghead

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RTFMA

A= again


I have never seen the nut cause binding, something is not correctly assembled.
 

epitts

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I had the same problem, the cause was rusted componets for the horn button. Also make sure you reinstalled the retaining clip and it is in the grove. Used steering wheel puller to pull steering shaft up to install clip. Good luck
 

Recovry4x4

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If the steering wheel is too far down, the ring will ground out and light the horn. Pull that wheel and have a looksee, might be cracked along the spline.
 

dependable

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Make sure you put the spring back in the right order. That is what wheel bottoms out on. Good diagram in TM 9-2320-289-20 P ; figure # 99. Spring is ref # 61. The lock ring mentioned above is critical as well. Good luck.
 

clinto

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ok, so here's what I did. Pretty simple.

Like I said, everything I've ever worked on had a nice solid surface for the steering wheel to bottom out on. Put the wheel on, tighten the nut and you can't overtighten it because the wheel is bottomed out.

I took this back apart and realized the way GM did it was the the steering shaft is slightly larger so that at a certain point the steering wheel shouldn't be able to go down any further.

Well, if you put the steering wheel nut on with an impact wrench, you will force the wheel down onto this larger area no problem!

So, I pulled it all back apart, put it back together the right way and it seems to work fine now.

I appreciate all the responses (even doghead's rofl) especially Westech calling me and talking about GM steering columns-much obliged folks.
 

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