Truck shutting off after driving/ return valve?

[stampy]

You may want to siphon a good portion of your diesel into cans and look for trash first. Access to my tank (in my 1009) was by carefully cutting through the floor in the back and building a patch piece (way easier than taking the tank off!) Take measurements and make the cutout at least 6X6 inches or you will never get your hands in there to remove the sending unit.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

did you clean out the "sock" in the tank?

No.
im gonna have to pull the tank to do that arent I?
Well i guess it cant be any worse than the fuel pump.lol

 

[Iamnewatthis]

You may want to siphon a good portion of your diesel into cans and look for trash first. Access to my tank (in my 1009) was by carefully cutting through the floor in the back and building a patch piece (way easier than taking the tank off!) Take measurements and make the cutout at least 6X6 inches or you will never get your hands in there to remove the sending unit.

Thats a good idea, thanks.
If i get this electric pump(getting the one JD suggested) can you tell me how to wire it?

 

[stampy]

2 wires .....should be straight forward (make sure it's for diesel)

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Well i dont think its the sock.
When I remove the line from the fuel pump to the fuel filter, and the red wire to the cold advance,
crank engine, I have lots of fuel pumping. I filled my new spin on filter to.
It starts after allot of cranking, runs for awhile, then dies. And wont restart again.
Unless i repeat the procedure. But i do have fuel getting to the filter.
Do you guys think it could be my injection pump dying?

 

[stampy]

Either that or you are losing prime between the lift pump and the IP. Have you replaced the line to the IP? You would remember it is a total PITA. Sometimes they rub against something and get a small hole in the line.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Either that or you are losing prime between the lift pump and the IP. Have you replaced the line to the IP? You would remember it is a total PITA. Sometimes they rub against something and get a small hole in the line.

Stampy, I took off the manifold and replaced the rubber part of the line running from the fuel filter to the IP, the rubber part but not the alluminum part.
I did snug them all up after putting some break free on the threads.

Also, can I use the electric fuel pump in conjunction with the mechanical stock one?

ETA; yes it was a pita, but not near as bad as the fuel pump, that was the worst.

 

[stampy]

May be the IP... Yes you can use the electric fuel pump with the mechanical. My m1009 occasionally loses prime when hot. You can kill the batteries trying to get her to start with no joy. With the electric pump I just flip the switch and voila! she starts right up.

 

[stampy]

Have you cleaned all of your electrical connections going to the IP to shiny metal and used dielectric grease on the connections? I just can't figure Why it runs and then doesn't. Seems to me and intermittent problem wouldn't be the IP but...You might get a rebuilt one and see if it solves your issues. I would also connect a volt meter to the power wire on the solenoid for the IP and ground the other lead watch to see if voltage drops out when it dies on you

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Have you cleaned all of your electrical connections going to the IP to shiny metal and used dielectric grease on the connections? I just can't figure Why it runs and then doesn't. Seems to me and intermittent problem wouldn't be the IP but...You might get a rebuilt one and see if it solves your issues. I would also connect a volt meter to the power wire on the solenoid for the IP and ground the other lead watch to see if voltage drops out when it dies on you

Cleaned but no grease.
Will do again.
And will put a meter on the solenoind.
Thanks.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

What are they talking about? Step 4?
Got this from the TM trouble shooting part,
34. STARTS BUT SHUTS OFF COMPLETELY
Step 1. Ensure that truck fuel tank is at least 1⁄4 full. Add fuel if low. Step 2. Inspect air passages for restrictions.
Clear restrictions. Allow system to cool before retesting.
2-48
Step 3.
Step 4.
Remove side panel from heater compartment. Disconnect fuel line from inlet side of heater. Place suitable container under inlet line. Check for fuel flow to heater while holding run-start switch in the “START” position.
If fuel flow is evident, replace heater (See paragraph 10-36)
If fuel flow is not evident, perform step 4. Check for restrictions in heater inlet fuel line.
If line is restricted, clear restriction.

What does the heater have to do with the truck running, and why would the fuel line go thru it?

 

[cjtroutt]

I found that I just replaced the IP pump with updated to usdl fuel and new return lines and all new fuel lines It will run just great and ran alot smoother.
Also I will aggree with jdemaris some times its time to replace and or R&R The IP out.
I done an IP for an frend of mine and it ran like new.
He had taken it to several shops and they told that the engine was on the way out I lol when he told me that
He now wants me do all his work.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

I found that I just replaced the IP pump with updated to usdl fuel and new return lines and all new fuel lines It will run just great and ran alot smoother.
Also I will aggree with jdemaris some times its time to replace and or R&R The IP out.
I done an IP for an frend of mine and it ran like new.
He had taken it to several shops and they told that the engine was on the way out I lol when he told me that
He now wants me do all his work.

I have been thinking about doing all new fuel lines too.
I have already done the rubber sections, can you tell me where to get the
metal sections?
I've got the return lines covered.
thanks.

 

[cjtroutt]

You can get metal lines at any auto parts store or there is some places that sell pre bent lines to. LMC Truck / Brothers Trucks / Classic Industries / East wood sell line in coil and you bend and flange it for connectors.
Hope it Helps.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

You can get metal lines at any auto parts store or there is some places that sell pre bent lines to. LMC Truck / Brothers Trucks / Classic Industries / East wood sell line in coil and you bend and flange it for connectors.
Hope it Helps.

Thanks, i was looking at lmc and their catalog says for carberated only.
I will look at the other 3 though, thanks.

 

[Warthog]

The heater statement is for the Fuel Fired Ambulance Heater. Unless you have one ignore that statement

HEATER, AMBULANCE PERSONNEL​

Smoky Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .​

Starts But Shuts Off Completely

 

[stampy]

Did you get a chance to put the meter on the solenoid?

 

[Iamnewatthis]

The heater statement is for the Fuel Fired Ambulance Heater. Unless you have one ignore that statement

HEATER, AMBULANCE PERSONNEL​

Smoky Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .​

Starts But Shuts Off Completely

Thanks, this is what happens when i read the TM's till 2 am. lol.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Did you get a chance to put the meter on the solenoid?

Yes did that first thing this morning.
12 volts at shut off, cold advance, and also at the glow plugs.
I changed glow plugs to ACD 60G's awhile back so i checked that too.

Do you or anyone else know the correct part # for the correct sending unit.
Im gonna just go ahead and replace tank, sending unit, and all fuel lines.
I have ordered Du-bro 5/32 tygon tubing to use for the return lines.
That i found in another thread and it is supposed to be much better than the dormans.
I have decided to get the Walbro FRB-5 electric fuel pump so i can use some custom braided fuel line as well instead of the ridged.
If anyone knows a source for good fuel line please let me know.
I am also pulling the IP and rebuilding it.
Might as well do it all the first time, do it right and be done with it.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

bump for update in first post