How do you test the starter solenoid?

[edpdx]

I pulled my starter- the new Gear reduction 24 volt I bought 2 weeks ago to replace my bad Direct Drive model. After installing it, I find that it clicks; but does not seem to spin. I tested all wiring and finally pulled the starter out. I clamped it in my vice and gave it 24volts at the battery cable. The ground strap was grounded to the battery. I hooked up a remote starter to the "S" (where the purple wire goes to the solenoid) and the other remote wire went to the battery connection. Press the button and the Bendix comes flying out; but DOES NOT SPIN?!?

Is this a solenoid problem or is it in the starter?

 

[Warthog]

Sounds like the stater.

 

[topo]

try checking your batteries maybe one is bad and your not getting 24 volts . I went through almost the same thing on my m52a2

 

[Westech]

take it apart.. might just be a burn spot on the armacher. Clean it all up with the little 800 grit and give it a shot.

 

[edpdx]

The starter is new. The batteries are fully charged.

I can't figure out how to get the solenoid to release off of the the starter.

Ed

 

[ralbelt]

If its new don't mess with it, take it back.If you take it apart chances are that you won't be able to return it.

 

[Warthog]

On the gear reduction starters, the solenoid is sealed. The cheapest replacement I have found is $50 amd most around $75. You have to remove the pin from the bendix arm and unbolt the solenoid.

I'll see if I still have an old solenoid and post a picture.

The starter itself can be taken apart.

It is really hard to tell from here which parts it is.

Take your voltmeter and check for 24v at the starter side of the solenoid when you engae it.

 

[edpdx]

Problem resolved!

After more than a week messing around with this starter, I finally have it back in and running .

I ran it over to a starter shop- told the fellow what was happening. He attaches the battery cable and shorts the terminals- whiirrrrr!.

I scratched my head and the guy says I probably just had a dirty ground is all. I went back home and sprayed everything down with some carb cleaner, brushed it with a new brass brush and reinstalled it all with an extra ground wire (10g) from the screw where the bracket goes to a bolt on the chassis where the 24v lead is clamped to the frame.

All seem to be right- Blazer started right up.

Just wanted to add resolution to this thread.

Thanks to warthog and chevymike for all the input.

 

[ssgtcampbell77]

Any chance you know if a 6.5 Hummer starter solenoid will work on an M1008 6.2L??

 

[Warthog]

Depends on the model. It must be either a 27MT (old direct drive) or 28MT (gear reduction). They both use a differnt style solenoid.

 

[ssgtcampbell77]

You said you've seen the solenoids from $50-$75, where did you find them? I found 24V starters for sale but not the solenoids. The local parts stores carry solenoids but I think they are all 12V.

 

[Warthog]

Which one do you need? I have a source for the 28MTs in Texas and I have also seen them on fleabay.

My local starter shop can get the 24v 27MT solenoids.

 

[ssgtcampbell77]

How can I tell the difference? Im pulling my starter out later today. Is it stamped with the model? I looked through the -20 and -30 manuals and they show a picture of the solenoid but they don't reference them at all.

 

[Warthog]

How can I tell the difference? Im pulling my starter out later today. Is it stamped with the model? I looked through the -20 and -30 manuals and they show a picture of the solenoid but they don't reference them at all.

Is the starter motor BIG and fat and heavy? Or is it a smaller size and offset in reference to the stater bendix?

 

[ssgtcampbell77]

I'll let you know as soon as I pull it. Thank you.

 

[Warthog]

27MT-Direct Drive on the left and 28MT-Gear Reduction on the right

 

[Warthog]

How can I tell the difference? Im pulling my starter out later today. Is it stamped with the model? I looked through the -20 and -30 manuals and they show a picture of the solenoid but they don't reference them at all.

The gear reduction starters are not talked about in the CUCV manuals. They came out after the manuals where published.

 

[ssgtcampbell77]

Warthog, my apologies, had to work late last night. I'll pull that starter and take a picture this afternoon.

 

[ssgtcampbell77]

I didn't see you posted those pictures, mine is the bigger one on the left. I finally have some time off so Im gonna get to the starter today. Before I yank that starter out, Ive got a question or two. First, The TM shows a relay near the starter and one under the dash but in the schematics, I only see one relay. Is there one near the starter too? Also, how can I test if either of those relays are bad before I rip out the starter?

 

[Warthog]

The relays under the dash are the silver starter relay, square GEN2 relay and the square Voltmeter relay.
Have you done the Doghead Starter Relay upgrade?

The "relay" on the starter is actually the starter solenoid.

What page of the TM did you see a relay near the starter? List the manual number and page number. I don't feel like looking thru 2000 pages of stuff...

From your description your starter is the older Direct Drive 27MT starter. Part are available for rebuild if needed.

The part number for the solenoid is 1114373. Napa number is ST335 but they cost $224 so I would look elsewhere.

The stock solenoid has been talked about many times. Check out this thread

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/33149-24-volt-starter-soleniod.html


And you can get the solednoid for both types of starters here:

Starter Solenoids 12 volt & 24 volt Delco,Ford,Denso,Nikko, Mitsubishi,Starter Solenoids Switches

Direct drive 27MT starter solenoid - 7-920 - $36.50
Gear Reduction 28MT starter solenoid - 7-1064 - $54.50

The direct drive solenoid can be taken apart and serviced. The gear reduction is sealed.