Harmonic balancer Questions

[Erik Jenkinson]

My harmonic balancer is getting bad. Time to replace. I have read the TMs, and understand the procedure. What I am worred about is the fact that no one can find a installation tool short of fabricating one. I dont have a welder. I may be able to get a shop to make it for me. What bolt exactly do I need to do the replacement myself? Do any chain stores have a rental kit that works? I really am sweating this one. My marks on my balancer havent shifted, but it has about 1/16" of wobble front to back. Is that really bad?

 

[GFB]

It's a fine thread 16mm bolt. I was able to get a 10cm long one from fastenal and a couple nuts and washers to use as spacers as I threaded the balancer back onto the crank.

 

[rnd-motorsports]

auto zone or other bigger auto parts stores will rent or lone you a harmonic balancer installer to use . Or you can get the bolt a bit longer and two large washers that will cover the hole on the new harmonic put a nut on it then threw the washers with a small bit of grease between the washers so they act like bearings and threw harmonic, Then thread bolt as far as you can into crank and tighten nut to push on the harmonic once installed remove the bolt ,nut and washers and reinstall the harmonic bolt! be sure to replace harmonic balancer seal when you have it apart!

 

[GFB]

the installer sets at all the major chain stores do not have the proper thread pitch adapter. i tried calling them all just finding a proper bolt was bad enough. if you have a fastenal around you they can order you one. after a new balancer my pulley still wobbles a bit. i suppose it's bent a little but i'm not too worried about it.

 

[lavarok]

Two choices to buy an appropriate installer kit that I know of:

1: http://www.princessauto.com/workshop/hand-tools/automotive-tools/auto-repair/8223554-harmonic-balancer-installer

2: Master Harmonic Balancer Installer | OTC Tool Manufacturer for Cars and Trucks

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My order from princess auto shipped last week. I'm going to be doing the job on all my cuvs in coming weeks.

 

[lavarok]

The adapter used in the kit is the M16 x 1.5.

 

[344lbsofgetdown]

i got my harmonic and installer kit from autozone will post the part numbers after i get off work harmonic also came wit ha new bolt and key

 

[344lbsofgetdown]

ok here we go

harmonic made by dorman part number 594-128

installer part number 27144 made by oem

did not even have to remove the fan shroud to d otook me about one hour to do

 

[lavarok]

What adapters are in that OEM kit?

I did not think it came with a M16 x 1.5 adapter...if so cool, if not what adapter did you use?

 

[DIESELGREEN]

I put a new balancer on my 1008 last night. I only needed the puller to remove the old one. I did not have any trouble at all installing the new one, nor did it require the use of an installation tool. after the old one was off, I pulled the front main and installed a new seal. cleaned up the end of the crank and installed the new woodruff key supplied with the balancer. slapped a lil' white grease on the crank, and right on it went. carefully tapped on as far as I could with a deadblow hammer, then threaded in the new bolt/washer,(also supplied with the balancer, Napa parts are great) torqued it down, put on some fresh belts, and man what a difference. quieter and smoothed out the idle considerably. took all of 3 hours for everything, taking time to make sure I didn't booger anything up.

 

[GFB]

I would advise against using a hammer to tap it on as this puts lateral stress on the crank bearings and can ruin them. You might try putting the balancer in the oven and heating it up to make it go on easier, but most of them will be too tight to be able to "tap" onto the crank. There is a reason they make these installation tools.

But in the end, it's your truck and feel free to do whatever you want.

 

[JUNKYARDJOHN]

If they have too much press fit, I take a wheel cyl. hone, & hone out a few thousands. BE CAREFUL.... MEASURE TWICE....CUT ONCE. John

 

[Erik Jenkinson]

The 27144 Kit at autozone doesn't come with a m16x1.5 adapter. I just ordered a 100mm long m16x1.5 bolt and nut with a couple washers. Ill post my results this weekend.

 

[DIESELGREEN]

They were very gentle taps. Just to get it far enough on that the bolt would catch the threads. I also mentioned it was a deadblow hammer.

 

[lavarok]

I would advise against using a hammer to tap it on as this puts lateral stress on the crank bearings and can ruin them. You might try putting the balancer in the oven and heating it up to make it go on easier, but most of them will be too tight to be able to "tap" onto the crank. There is a reason they make these installation tools.

But in the end, it's your truck and feel free to do whatever you want.

I agree... from everything I've read a hammer here is a no-no. Force across the bearings is a concern as well as physical damage to the balancer.

Using the crank bolt and washer is frowned upon as you may strip or damage the crank threads. A separate bolt or all thread long enough to seat into the crank or the installer allows for safe install of the balancer.

I think most guys will have a hard time justifying the purchase of the right tool for this job. However with several CUCVs in my fleet and several spare 6.2l engines that need to be rebuilt, I had no problem dropping $50 for the right tool.

If anyone else knows of an install kit with the right size adapter, post up a link. I'll have mine this week just in time to do one cucv this coming weekend.

 

[lavarok]

My installer arrived today.

 

[Erik Jenkinson]

I just did mine with a m16x1.5x100mm bolt I got from fastenal, stacking washers up as it drew in... Word to the wise, either get the installer, or do what I did carefully, and by hand. My buddy bottomed the long bolt out in my crank with an impact. Luckily it was on its lowest setting. Still, this damaged my crank threads slightly in its removal. (as the damaged threads on the end of the bolt drew out) I was lucky it dind't get totally stripped. The damage was minimal, barely even noticeable, but damage none the less. I am happy to have the balancer off my checklist, but darn near ended up having to tap out the end of my crank. It was sketchy to say the least.

 

[dmilkman589]

what is the torque spec on putting all the bolts back in. the 3 face bolts. and the 1 center bolt. assuming that's all of them

 

[Keith_J]

what is the torque spec on putting all the bolts back in. the 3 face bolts. and the 1 center bolt. assuming that's all of them

Pulley to damper? Check bolts for grade+size and use Appendix E of the -20. The damper to crankshaft is fine thread metric, it is specified at 200 foot-pounds.

Sorry, I don't remember the pulley to damper torque specs because they aren't all that critical. My arms are calibrated, "that looks about right" works here. Simple joint and multiple fasteners means TLAR applies.

 

[dmilkman589]

im away at school in buffalo, going to change the balancer in my school parking lot. i think i get how todo the balacer put the seal behind it that people say to change. thats the timing cover seal correct? and if so how do you remove that.