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Working on designing a WMO filter system

Crawdaddy

Member
444
4
18
Location
Louisiana
So, I've been reading for a while trying to collect part numbers for parts needed to build a WMO filtering system. It seems like part numbers for filters and filterblocks are scarce, but I think I've found some that will work. My primary goal of the system is to filter WMO from my vehicles using parts that I can get from the local parts stores. I will only be filtering oil 5 gallons at a time or so, so high flow is not a big issue.

While I'm producing my own waste oil to filter and reuse, I wanted some sort of water filtering. I found NAPA part number 3616 which is a 20 micron filter and water separator with base FIL4762 to go with it. Then to bring it down to 5 microns which seems to be sufficient for the deuce multifuels, I'm going with FIL1749 and base 4750. I'm going to pump oil through the system using a Harbor Freight 1" clear water pump (1" Clear Water Pump). I've heard they have issues with priming, but I figure I will use a vertical section of pipe to store enough oil to get a prime.

Am I on the right track with my choices of parts? I'm pretty stupid when it comes to filters and filter bases. Thanks for any help in advance.
 

Tlauden

Member
840
3
18
Location
Halifax Pennsylvania
Sounds like you have a good game plan. Tractor supply has spin on and canister type filters. Not sure if there spin ons will take any other brands though. And I would imagine keeping a pipe with oil in would be enough to get your prime going.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
757
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I cannot say anything about the pump you want to use, as I have not used it, BUT! I use an air powered barrel piston pump and it works great. I recommend getting two 15 gal barrels and pump from one to the other. It is a tried and true, proven filtering system.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
757
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I'm sure it would, I just used what I had on hand(from GL when minimum bid was $50) and I have filtered thousands of gallons.
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
I'm sure it would, I just used what I had on hand(from GL when minimum bid was $50) and I have filtered thousands of gallons.
Man,thats alot of oil! And thats a good deal on that pump,i have a pneumatic pump similar to yours but it disturbs the neighbors!
 

OEFISHER

Member
124
0
16
Location
Chandler, OK
You might try a check valve on the intake. I had one of those pumps for draining some tanks of water and they do not prime worth a *&*& well you know. I use a sbc pump and it works great pumping thru the filters. Good Luck
 

bodi044

New member
15
0
0
Location
Canton Ohio
I am setting up a filtration system with a large house water sediment filter housing and 5 micron filter. I have the dirty oil barrel pressurized @ a steady 20-25 lbs of pressure regulated from my air compressor. It pushes the oil up the pick up tube (6" off the bottom) it right through the 1/2 inch line through the filter and into my clean barrel. I will use the air compressor to pressurize the clean barrel to fill the tank on the truck too.

Don't have anything set up for water separation yet and I am looking for a 275 gallon storage tank.
 

bodi044

New member
15
0
0
Location
Canton Ohio
A pump will only vacuum off the main tank, it will then push through the filtration units on any system so your gonna have to sell me a bit more on your claim. A pump will build pressure as the filters clog but a 20lb regulated line will never exceed 20lbs.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
757
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Yes, but as the fluid leaves the tank, you get a MUCH larger volume of stored, compressed, air. If you are not using a tank that is a pressure rated vessel, you are asking for trouble. I have seen at least 3 tanks split open from air pressure and 2 "only" made a mess, spilling their contents. The third ripped open violently. I would not wish that on someone I didn't like. Have you watched the tanks when pressurizing? Doesn't that "growing"(expanding) concern you?

All I'm saying is make sure you are safe while filtering. Its not worth getting hurt.
 

NMCShooter

New member
31
0
0
Location
Dawsonville, GA
I went cheap and simple. I used a 35 gal steel drum with a clamp-on, removable top. I welded an "L" shaped tube to the side of the drum. the long part of the "L" ends .5" from the bottom of the drum. I attached a 1" ball valve and one of the Tractor Supply 30$ fuel filters to the short end of the "L" shaped tube where it sticks out the side of the drum. I poked a hole in the lid and attached a quick disconnect. I use a separate regulator and limit the air to the drum to 10-15 psi. Works like a champ and cost less than 50$
 

bodi044

New member
15
0
0
Location
Canton Ohio
Yes I agree to your point and yes I have seen the barrel split from pressure as well as they are not designed for that purpose. I don't want that to happen either. The system I saw was a steel barrel and the pressure was being run at 60lbs and it was forcing through at high volume. I use a poly barrel for the pressure side. Also, my philosophy is low pressure, low volume. I have all day to let the barrel empty at 20lbs of pressure. Slow and steady she goes. If it does not perform to my satisfaction I will not increase the pressure, I will instead install a pump to the system. Easy enough.
 

NMCShooter

New member
31
0
0
Location
Dawsonville, GA
At 10 psi, my rig takes about a minute per gallon. When I fill the barrel, I pour the WMO through filter cloth to jeep the big chunks from prematurely cloggin the filter element.
 
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