Budd nut from ****

[Gunfreak25]

Holy moly. I was taking the wheels off the right side front tandem today and all of the budd thimbles came off fairly easily except for 1. I was using my 40" breaker bar with a 16" extension and it would NOT budge. Heated it up to around 550 degrees a couple times and that didn't do anything. Eventually won the battle by using a 7' long solid copper pipe over the breaker bar with my jack underneath to prevent flexing. That darn cheater pipe almost yanked my feet off the ground before I finally heard the loud crack of the thimble being loosened.

Amazingly my breaker bar withstood the force just fine, I thought for sure i'd break or bend it. That nut had no rust on the threads and plenty of anti seize. But somebody put way too much torque on it. I figure it took what, 1000+ pounds to break it free? I am 200lb and it almost lifted me off the ground!

 

[73m819]

getting the tires off the right side of the 819, took me (185 lb)standing on a 8' cheater and heat at times , broke 2 3/4 extensons, 1 3/4 ratchet, 2 bud nuts, 1 stud, bent 1 breaker bar and had 2 lugnuts come off with the bud, took me a whole weekend to get all 40 loose, though I would never get it done

 

[NDT]

Hit the pawn shops and get a 1" drive impact. Be done with this backbreak forever.

 

[73m819]

Hit the pawn shops and get a 1" drive impact. Be done with this backbreak forever.

I would have used mine if I HAD air, no air means the old fashion way

 

[Nonotagain]

I would have used mine if I HAD air, no air means the old fashion way

So the air compressor on your truck doesn't work?

If I'm planning on removing the wheels on my trucks or trailers, I apply a liberal application of PB Blaster or Kroil and drive around for a couple of days before the back breaking day. Most of the time the movement of the wheels allow for the oil to do it's job and I can just hit the lugs with the geared lug wrench.

The trick to the geared wrench is to use a jack stand to support it when in use.

I have both a 3/4 and 1 inch impact gun, but the geared wrench is easier to use for a single wheel removal.

 

[ODdave]

Pics of the "solid copper pipe" please.........

 

[73m819]

Not enough supply, 1 or 2 quick bursts them wait for build up, things weren't going any where, could not drive the truck, doing this because of a dropped touque rod, a big1" or even a big 3/4 needs a GOOD supply of air, thay suck the supply and pressure down FAST with 1/2" lines with only 2 truck air tanks

 

[Josh]

Hammer and I used my truck to power a 1in gun to removed a few lugnuts. Only did 1 of the lugnuts give us problems.

Set the idle for about 1500 rpm and she should be able to keep up.

 

[73m819]

these were on TIGHT, it was all the 8' cheater and I could do to break them loose, then ran them off

 

[KsM715]

Pics of the "solid copper pipe" please.........

I would think you would bend a copper pipe long before you'd bust a lug nut loose.

 

[91W350]

I know that we bent about every bar we could get our hands on trying to get the right rear duals off of my deuce. My impact wrench just beat the corners off of the nuts, I made an S bar out of the original bar. I found a 8 foot pry bar with a pointed tip and got a couple loose. Finally I took it to my buddy's truck shop and his 1" impact wrench with a 1" air line just zipped them off. I have enough compressor, just not enough wrench. My Snap On is rated at 810 foot pounds. I can easily take off any nuts I put on with it with my breaker bar. I run the inner nuts on with the Snap On and then back it off on the adjuster thumb wheel and run the outers on. The truck does not supply enough air to properly run the wrench, so I carry a 42" 1" breaker bar with me to break the nuts loose. Then I can use air if I choose to.

I learned the hard way about those big impacts, I took a 105 to my buddy's shop because I could not get the lug nuts loose. A skinny armed kid that was barely big enough to pick up the impact wrench zipped them off for me. I told him they were too tight, so he broke them loose, then zipped them back on. When I got home, I again could not get them off. I returned with my wrench, had him break them loose, then I zipped them back on while he was laughing about it. The whole thing was much more humorous for him. Glen

 

[91W350]

I am back to add that everybody should check their ability to get all of the wheels off of their truck. It would be a bummer to be remote, have a spare and not be able to get it put on. Cookiemann got a good taste of that at Fort Riley when he came to get his truck. Like most of us, he had tools, but they were not up to the task, neither were mine when I recovered my deuce, thankfully I made it home without a tire service call. That would have really got me wound up, I hate blowing 100 dollar bills for nothing. Glen

 

[Jimma]

I had a bud nut yesterday that we had trouble removing. Oddshot and I were both putting all our weight on the bar. My entire 250 plus whatever his weight is. No luck. We then used a 5 foot steel pipe as an extension to get more leverage and it finally broke loose.

 

[Kohburn]

before i picked up a gear reduction wrench I had to use a 6' steel pipe on my 3/4" drive wrench and jump on the end to break a few loose.

 

[m16ty]

Heated it up to around 550 degrees a couple times and that didn't do anything.

You didn't get it hot enough. Heat that sucker cherry red and it should come loose.

I've had to do this before and they always come loose after heating. The nut will be ruined for reuse though.

 

[4x4 Forever]

Grab you a 11 gal air tank from HF, 1" impact, some 1/2" hose, and a glad hand. Put it in a truck box in the bed for those 'emergencies'.

Been using this set up ever since Bryan and I took ONE wheel loose on his deuce. If I can't get some type of air, I'll go the breaker bar....After I spend at LEAST 2 hours trying to get air!

 

[Gunfreak25]

All I had was a little blow torch to do the heating. I too was surprised by the copper pipe, it has a sight bow to it but it's pretty darn thick, not the first time it's been used for leverage purposes. About $60 worth of copper.

While we're on the subject of wheels. Does anyone have any opinions on this?

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/11539-these-singles-without-hub-flip.html

I am on a budget as it is and I need to pickup 4 new tires for the truck before it even hits the road. For the time being, can I just torque the thimbles back on and run the outer wheels? That would solve my tire issue, and it's less rubber to deal with. I don't plan on doing any heavy hauling or trailblazing. I think it looks pretty good too, a lot better than just running the inner wheels.

 

[panshark]

It looks like a common theme on the thread (and in my life) is a waaay long bar, and some weight.

How long of a bar could reasonably and safely be stowed in the void under the bed, between the frame rails?

(Try not to picture me doing a weird pole vault jump off the bed, trying to break a lug nut loose!)

 

[panshark]

I tried singling out the 9.00's, it seemed like it caused the singles to wear out in nothing flat. Save a few dollars now, pay a lot more later. From experience, I suggest you look at other options.

 

[Gunfreak25]

No other options on the GMC's. Hubs cannot be flipped on them. From what little reading i've done It seems this is called running "dish out". If I can run them this way then that would enable me to save up the cash for some really nice Michelin super singles from Hundy in California. They fit on stock deuce wheels.