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m101a3 bed on an m101a2 running gear?

michigandon

Well-known member
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Location
Wake Forest, NC
I did a search on here but couldn't come up with a definitive answer. I have an a2 from Bragg, and an a3 from Lejeune. The a2's bed is all rusted out in front and my plan is to shorten it up to the second "rib" for the stake pocket right before the fenders and mount it on the rear of my '61 IHC Travelette. I was originally going to keep the a3 intact and use it as is and swap the tires and rims from the a2 to the a3 (it will ride more "level" behind my Sprinter and I also plan on running the same size 235/85r16s on the Travelette as well), but the more that I get to looking at them I think I would prefer to just swap the a3 bed onto the a2 running gear.

And yes, I know that this would be considered a significant downgrade, but here's the kicker....the a3 has a bunch of disappointing quirks which I did not discover until I went to recover it yesterday (IE: surge brakes inop [line CUT just aft of the master cylinder], and parking brakes all F-ed up), whereas the a2 has good working surge brakes and BRAND NEW parking brake cables as well as one new parking brake lever. I just figured by the time I went through all the heartache and sorrow of swapping out individual brake components back and forth between the two it would just be easier just to swap the out the undercarriages. My only concern is the difference in wheel spacing.

Comments, suggestions, heck even flames are welcome. :mrgreen:

TIA and happy Memorial Day!

Don
 

Nonotagain

New member
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Location
Parkville, MD
The A3 is a heavier chassis than the A2 with an additional leaf spring. The base chassis is rated for 1 ton on the A3 verses 3/4 ton on the A2.

You could drop the A2 axle with lines in intact and bolt it up under the A3 frame.

A A3 trailer is worth more if you need to sell than an A2.
 

michigandon

Well-known member
1,442
82
63
Location
Wake Forest, NC
You could drop the A2 axle with lines in intact and bolt it up under the A3 frame.
True dat, however I still think it would be much easier just to swap the entire running gear out, and even the lighter chassis would probably be more than enough trailer than I would ever need.

OK, so here's another question: How difficult/expensive is it to just do a full brake job on one of these? I noticed tonight that a welder trailer here at work has the exact same master cylinder on it...which leads me to believe that most of not all the parts are readily available in the civilian world.

When you buy one of these from GL and only pay 1/3-1/4 of the price that folks are asking for them on here, ebay and craigslist, you don't mind and actually expect to do a little tinkering to get it to your liking. [thumbzup]
 
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