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2nd fuel tank installation 1985 M1028

MARCO1031

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Location
Marco Island Florida
In installed a 20 gal tank from a late 70s truck on the right side of my M1031. Right now I only have it plumbed to fuel my diesel generator in the back of the truck but with the info you guys have given on the selector valve I think I may set it up as an aux tank as well. I have also considered installing an additional tank in the rear so I'm curious to see what tank works best for that. Can't have enough reserve fuel as far as I'm concerned:-D Thanks for the info.
 
UPDATE:

Tried to fit a OEM Suburban tank = too long. Needs to be at least 4" shorter. Trying to find a Blazer tank for the rear - but the skid plate I test fit was also about 2" too long.

Anyone successfully mounted a Blazer (M1009) tank in a M1008 / M1028 / M1031?

If not will have to start designing a maximum volume replacement tank for NWMP (or some other builder) to create.

SO... next question.

Is there any reason why the shocks have to be mounted on opposite sides of the axel? I know that is how GM does it on these trrucks, but why? Aren't there other brands out there that mount the shocks on the same side of the axel? If so, is there a suspension related geometry or design consideration to be addressed before the right side shock could be relocated forward?

The concept is to mofe the right shock ahead of the axel and convert to a single exhaust (larger diameter) on the left. There are trucks from GM with that exhaust configuration (turbocharged ones perhaps?) This would maximise the volume behind the axel. Otherwise I'd have to build a symmetrical rear tank design with a slight taper at the nose to clear the eshaust down-and-out tube/tip on the left and the shock on the right.

Thoughts anyone?
 
Last edited:

Dave Kay

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Kingman AZ
This is one of my favorite boards and run by some real decent guys. They did a Blazer rear tank swap into a 1/2 ton, (I believe) but maybe this link can give you some ideas.

Chassis Articles
 
Believe it or not I looked at building a sub-bed tank frame conforming that would use the space left by a 1" lift and drop down behind the wheels on either side and on the right between the driveshaft and the frame rail - but the manufacturing costs were stupid and the plumbing not much better... If you need the whole bed and want the center of gravity low, it gets hard. If I can squeeze in 2x20 saddle tanks and a 31 gallon rear blazer tank I will feel a lot better about some of the areas I plan to offroad in. Not many gas stations in the subarctic... Nearly $400 a fill though.
 

xenocath

searching.............
193
4
18
Location
Glen allen, VA
i know they make a rear tank for the pickups that goes under the rear of the bed,it was an option back in the 80s for diesels to have 3 tanks from the factory my grand father had one his truck held 100 gals between the 3 tanks. keep searhcing the JYs they are out there. i plan to add this set up as soon as i can find one.
 

Ronbo

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Mid TN.USA
Great topic and just in time . I am going to strip my 87 silverado ( has dual tanks) and put all the good stuff in/on my m1028. Power windows, dual tanks, door panels , tilt .even get rid of the junky 6.2 and put a real motor..350. .030 over etc..
 

Ronbo

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Location
Mid TN.USA
Not to change the topic , But I just talked to airtex ( great people) ! My pump didnt come with a bracket etc . They sending one out like NOW , No hastles just good service. So Just FYI ..
 
Update: After several hours of test fitting and brainstorming, a Blazer tank can be forced to fit into a M1031 but...

Have to relocate the right shock forward of the axle. Not sure how that will affect ride / suspension characteristics.

Have to go to a single exhaust system located on the drivers side

Rear frame brace will have to be seriously modified or a custom one built that allows removal of pintle hitch and bumper bolts. Needs to be at least 2" further to the rear. Can use existing frame upper holes that are in that approx. location if a small carefully drilled and cut spacer plate is added between the brace and the frame so the upper mounting surface of the brace sees a level surface to be clamped to by the longer bolts. The pintle brace corner almost but not quite occludes the bolt hole and is approx 1/4 thick. Tank strap and skid plate mounting bolt holes also need to be located and drilled in the new brace .

Custom front crossmember will be required that will allow hanging the skid plate and tank straps. May be interesting to clear other bracketry on the frame.

May force minor relocation or adjustment of load proportioning brake valve and linkage.

SO.... after all those changes, never mind the time involved, the cost will be more than the savings by being able to use an OEM tank. Unless some other tank or brand - like from a van or (gasp!) Ford etc might work. Will be easier, faster and once designed more resaleable to others to develop a custom rear tank that works for our M1008/1028/1031/1010's

As mentioned earlier by many - what was the Govt. thinking only specifying a 20 gallon tank in the first place! Everything else was heavy duty...
 

axeman

Member
31
0
6
Location
wet side,wa.
I did the three tank trick on mine. 88 v3500 crew from air force. I to was sick of passing up goood prices on fuel. came with the dual 20's. i put the 32 gal from a diesel suburban in,for 72 total. I put it in with the box on and without major mods. the rear lip of the tank sat on the front edge of my reciever hitch.with the reciever hitch (10000) there i felt no worries cutting the cross piece out. I bolted a piece of angle at the front of tank for the strap bolts. the rear strap ends were fastened with three 1/4 screws each. No exhaust mods,no shock moving,no welding.I should have trimmed a little where the filler hose comes out from under the box,as it was a slow fillup. the subs and blazers have a sheet metal bump right there. remember, the diesel subs/blazers had dual exhaust and same shock setup also.
 

DrJekl

Member
268
1
18
Location
Clarksville, TN
I just installed another tank on my M1031. It was a left tank from another CUCV. Just swapped the mount brackets around and bolted it in. I am using tank two for vegi oil. Working on the gas door on the bed now (the truck now has a truck bed on it rather than the maintenance box). The sending unit points the fuel lines out but I do not see it as an issue. The tank plate bolts up too.
 

DrJekl

Member
268
1
18
Location
Clarksville, TN
I will when we pull the current bed off and replace it with the one with the right side fuel door. You can't get much from the photos now really. If you look at your left side frame rail then the right, you can see the tank mount points drilled into the frame already.
 
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