I can't get in the manuals, or I would have. Been spending hours putting this together.
[FONT="]All info from
Steel Soldiers[/FONT]
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[FONT="]BELTS:[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT="]· Driver side alt- Gates# 7575; Dayco# 15580 [/FONT][FONT="]
· Passenger side alt- Gates# 7483; Dayco# 15490, Goodyear "Gatorback" - 15485
· Power Steering- Gates# 7448; Dayco#15455
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[FONT="]AIR CLEANER:[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT="]FRAM# CA3492; NAPA# FIL2096. [/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT]
[FONT="]FUEL FILTER: [/FONT]
[FONT="]Fuel filter is NAPA# FIL3136; FRAM#P3940A[/FONT]
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[FONT="]FUEL INJECTORS:[/FONT]
Delphi part # 6704001.
Marine type part number# (More HP)
-The injectors and the pump must be matched to one another by an injector shop.
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[FONT="]FUEL TX’s:[/FONT]
[FONT="]-Diesel additive regularly, [/FONT]
[FONT="]-2-stroke oil, enough to make one-2.5 gallons of 2-stroke fuel. [/FONT]
[FONT="]
HOSES:
NAPA - Upper: NBH7995 Lower: NBH7996[/FONT]
[FONT="]Radiator part number: Napa #NR2098 Car Quest #432098[/FONT]
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[FONT="]HEATER:[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT="]Blower motor: Part # from NAPA is 655-1076 (Heavy Duty)[/FONT]
[FONT="]Heater core # Autozone #399079[/FONT][FONT="]
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[FONT="]COOLANT:[/FONT]
[FONT="]Ethyl Glycol, Capacity: 25 Qt’s.[/FONT]
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[FONT="]GLOW PLUGS:[/FONT]
[FONT="]- Wellman 070 0r AC60G Do not buy AC13G glow plugs. They are obsolete. [/FONT][FONT="][/FONT]
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[FONT="]GLOW PLUG RELAYS:[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT="]NAPA - ST85[/FONT][FONT="],
Ford Powerstroke relay:
NAPA - ECHGPR109, [/FONT] [FONT="]Advance Auto Parts s603 is the same as Napa st80 or st85 and is 1/3 of the cost![/FONT]
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BATTERIES:
· Group 31 or 6TLs
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[FONT="]OIL:[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT="]· Oil: 15W40 for diesel. Capacity is 7 quarts. [/FONT][FONT="]
· Oil filter: FRAM# PH13; NAPA# FIL1092; ACDELCO# PF1218CL; [/FONT]
[FONT="]· Oil and filter change recommended every 3 months/3,000 miles[/FONT]
[FONT="]-Sea-Foam oil tx. prior to oil change once yearly[/FONT][FONT="]
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[FONT="]TRANSMISSION:[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT="](TH400, 3-Speed)[/FONT][FONT="]
· Transmission fluid: Dexron III.
· Transmission filter is NAPA# ATP14558, FRAM# FT1020A
· Capacity: 4 quarts, may vary. Fill as needed to reach level.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Sea-Foam Transmission additive prior to servicing. [/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT]
[FONT="]TRANSFER CASE (205 & 20
[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT="]· Fluid is Dexron III [/FONT][FONT="]
· Capacity is 5 quarts.
· Level should be approx. 1/4” below edge of filler plug hole
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[FONT="]DIFFERENTIALS, [/FONT]
[FONT="]· Valvoline 80w90 is preferred [/FONT][FONT="][/FONT]
[FONT="]· Front capacity is 4.5 pints. [/FONT][FONT="]
· Rear capacity is 5.4 pints.
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[FONT="]KEYS:[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT="]Key "B" blank 73Y2 cut[/FONT][FONT="]
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[FONT="]BRAKES:[/FONT]
[FONT="]Fluid: Silicone, Capacity:[/FONT]
[FONT="]Proportioning valve and other parts avail. at: Inline tube The brake plumbing experts[/FONT]
[FONT="]How to bleed: Secure Proportioning valve rod. Bleed closest to master cylinder to furthest, repeat as needed.[/FONT]
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[FONT="]THERMOSTAT:[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT="]NAPA – 381190[/FONT][FONT="]
Autozone - Murray 42995[/FONT]
[FONT="]Thermostat housing gasket - Felpro 35271, Murray 2140[/FONT][FONT="]
Thermostat Housing (Water Outlet) - Murray 84987[/FONT]
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[FONT="]CDR-PCV VALVE:[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT="]GM - 25042462[/FONT][FONT="]
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NAPA CRB229143 is the incorrect valve...
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[FONT="]POWER STEERING:[/FONT]
[FONT="]Standard fluid, Capacity:[/FONT][FONT="]
Power Steering Pump bracket part number is GM# 14033879
Hoses: Edelman 92082 [/FONT]
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[FONT="]ALTERNATOR:[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT="]Passenger Side Alternator: #7157 Napa #[/FONT][FONT="]WIL 90014277
Drivers side ONLY: 1975 Caddy Comm. Alt. 100 amps,
Ultima # 01-0136[/FONT]
[FONT="]-ALT1, (drivers side) runs that part of the truck along with the front battery. As long as ALT 1 is good, the truck will drive until you run out of fuel.[/FONT][FONT="]
-
ALT 2, (passenger side) charges the rear battery up after the truck has been started. The starter is the only part of the truck that uses the rear battery[/FONT]
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[FONT="]ALTERNATOR SERVICE:[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT="]1. Check dummy light bulb, if burned out the alternator will not work. [/FONT]
[FONT="]2. Check voltage at the alternator with the key off and with the key on. [/FONT][FONT="]
-
Each alternator is a 12 Volt unit. The big red wire that is bolted on has 12 volts from the battery. The little white plug has 2 wires on it. The thicker is the voltage out of the alternator back to the battery. The smaller wire is the exciter wire.
-
With the key off, the big red wire should have battery voltage, so should the bigger wire on the plug and with the plug off, key off, the exciter wire should have nothing.
-With the key on and the plug off, the exciter wire will have voltage along with the other 2.
3. Ohm meter test the Diode Trio removed from the alternator. Very simple instructions: Put one lead on the long leg and the other lead on any of the 3 shorter legs. Look at what you get and then switch the leads. One way should be high and the other low. If they are the same, the Diode Trio is bad. The test for the rectifier bridge is the exact same thing.
-
If you are not getting voltage out of an alternator, no light before start up or during running, the exciter wire is exciting and all the other wires are correct. Then spend the $4.00 or so for a new Diode Trio for a 27-si alternator, put it in and go find something else to work on. Or at least read all the pages about testing the alternator parts test them and then figure out what is bad.
-L
ook for loose or grounding wires if you have an intermittent fault. The Diode Trio is a solid state component and it is pretty much good or bad, & not a sometimes.
-
Does your volt meter move up or down with the light showing up or not? if so something somewhere on the truck side is probably either shorting out or not staying connected.
[/FONT]
[FONT="]PULLEYS:[/FONT]
[FONT="]Look and see if they are shiny all the way down inside the groove. The pulleys are just stamped steel pressed together. As they get old, they sometimes flatten out and the sides of the V on the belts don't make contact anymore. If the skinny bottom of the belt is what is turning the alternator, you will get slippage and a belt that stretches and wears out fast. [/FONT][FONT="]
STARTER:[/FONT]
[FONT="]24volt, Part #[/FONT][FONT="]
starter bracket PN GM 22502557
From
www.gmpartsdirect.com before. (Shipping is a little high).
Gear reduction
bracket is
23502557 - $15.28 list
Direct drive
bracket is
14028931 - $3.32 list
Starter bolts -
15544950 - $2.80 ea (must buy a box of 5)
Bolt for the bracket to block -
14060613 which is a M8 x 1.25 x 20
Gear reduction on the left, direct drive on the right
New style gear reduction
bracket is 23502557.
Diode/Rectifier that is used in the Starter Relay circuit and the Gen2 circuit,
is GM Part Number 12006377. Since GM doesn't stock it anymore, Radio Shack part #276-1144 works.
[/FONT]
[FONT="]CUCVs have an extra starter relay under the dash. It is known to either rust and not work making the truck not start or to stick in the on position letting the starter run until the wiring harness or the starter itself burns up and is permanently damaged. [/FONT]
[FONT="]-
The relay is mounted to the plate that the big plug is mounted to under the edge of the dash next to the 4WD lever. It is the bigger silver relay next to two black relays. Its purpose is to switch the 12v single from the ignition switch to 24v to trigger the 24volt starter. It has four wires plugged into it, The red wire is 24 volt feed. Solid purple goes to the starter. Black is ground. Purple with white stripe is the ignition feed. You can unplug these and jump the red to the purple and start the truck in an emergency. [/FONT]
[FONT="]STARTER RELAY IMPROVEMENT MOD:
[/FONT][FONT="]1. Buy Napa part# 7-01860-1 (SME line)
2. Disconnect your batteries
3. Remove diagnostic port under the dash and a couple screws which will release the mounting plate for which the relay is mounted to
4. Pull the mounting plate with relay down out of the dash so you can get to it, and remove the relay from the mount plate (IMG00541)
5. Mount the new Napa relay to the mounting plate. You can use one of the existing holes and then drill the other (IMG00542)
6. Cut off the old relay from the wiring as close as you can (IMG00543)
7. Put ring terminals on, and wire to the new relay.
8. Tape everything up well with electrical tape so you don't have bare metal sticking out anywhere
9. Replace the mounting plate up into the dash, replace diagnostic port, and re-connect your batteries[/FONT]
[FONT="] [/FONT]
[FONT="]GLOW PLUG RELAY CHANGE ISSUES:[/FONT]
[FONT="]There are two small issues with using the NAPA Ford GPR109 relay, both of which are perfectly fixable.[/FONT][FONT="]
1. The brackets on the stock relay are of a "north and south" orientation with one on the top and one on the bottom. The 109 has them in a sort of "north and west" orientation. Put the north bracket in the stock hole and then drill a new hole below the stock lower hole to mount the west bracket with. [/FONT]
[FONT="]2. The 109's larger studs use different threads than the stock relay does. The two smaller stock studs use the same thread as the 109's smaller studs so their nuts can be reused on the 109.[/FONT][FONT="]
-
The bid red wire goes on one big post and the two big orange go on the other.
-
The small blue is on the top small post and the small pink is on the bottom.
-The wiring diagram for the CUCV glow plug system are incorrect. If you are replacing a missing Glow Plug Relay, the small orange wire goes to the glow plug side of the relay, not the resistor side as shown on the wiring diagram. If it is on the resistor side, the controller will light up the wait light, but will not activate the relay.
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[FONT="]GLOW PLUG SERVICE CHECK:[/FONT]
Tools Required: Multi-Meter / test-light, Glow Plug Socket,3' piece of wire, with ends stripped
[FONT="][/FONT]
Remove a wire from a glow plug. Have a helper turn on the key, and check for voltage between the glow plug wire and ground.
-If voltage is present, use a test light and hook the end to the tip of the glow plug while it is still in the engine. With the other end of the test light, touch positive. If test light lights up the glow plug is good. Do this for each 8 glow plugs.
-If no voltage is present: Locate Glow Plug Relay on firewall to the left of the master Cylinder. Check for voltage on the Left large terminal.
-If voltage is present, have a helper turn on key, do you hear a clunk from the relay?
-If not, take your piece of wire, hold one end on a good ground, and touch the other end to the small terminal with the BLUE wire.
-If you still do not hear the relay clunk, replace it.
-If you do hear the clunk, your controller card is bad. Replace it, or install the 'manual glow plug' setup.
-If voltage is not present, check for voltage on the left side of the resistor bank (behind air cleaner on firewall)
-If no voltage, check wire feeding resistors to ensure it is properly connected to the TOP busbar on the firewall
-If voltage present, verify wire between resistor and relay. if wire is good, replace resistor, or do the 12v resistor bypass.
[FONT="]
LIGHTS/BLACKOUT LIGHTS:
· The right toggle switch moves power to the service lights, horn, dash, etc. or to the blackout lights. Pull it out and flip it up or down.
· The left switch turns on the blackout drive light. Flip it up or down; it will return to center position.
[/FONT]
[FONT="]FUEL FILTER SCREW-ON TYPE MOD:[/FONT]
[FONT="]4770 1"-14 threaded filter bases for $21:
Wix 24770 & Napa 4770 Base -
-The 1"-12 filter base for about $26: Wix 24309 & Napa 4309 Base [/FONT]
[FONT="]Amazon has the 224770 base for $29. [/FONT]
[FONT="]-If you decide to do a spin-on fuel filter conversion, you can use a hand operated vacuum pump (the same kind for bleeding brakes) to draw fuel from the tank and through the new element. Just hook the hand pump to the filter's output fitting to the IP and pump it a couple dozen times until you get a clear stream of fuel, then reattach the IP/filter line. It only takes a minute and gets rid of all of the trapped air.[/FONT][FONT="]
-
When replacing the fuel lift pump on the cucv the little metal rod that actuates the pump must be inserted fully into its little hole. To get it to stay up in place put a little wheel bearing grease on the rod end.[/FONT]
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[FONT="]INJECTION PUMP[/FONT][FONT="]:[/FONT]
[FONT="]The IP is a Stanadyne Roosa Master DB2[/FONT]
[FONT="] [/FONT]
[FONT="]INJECTION PUMP ADJUSTMENT:[/FONT]
[FONT="]Adjust the fuel screw clockwise to increase fuel. A small adjustment makes for a lot of fuel, think of it like a clock, 1/4 turn would be from 12 to 3, so you want to go less than that. The Banks turbo kits for GM diesels recommends 1/4 turn, but for an NA engine, you want less fuel, so 1/6th is about all you can do safely.
In order to properly troubleshoot a Stanadyne DB2 application, you must insure the following conditions are met:
1) Voltage – You must have the correct voltage to the shut off solenoid and to the cold start advance solenoid.
2) You should also have the pump properly timed. Please refer to the manufacturers timing information for complete timing instructions in the tech manuals.
3) You should also have a solid stream of return before the pump can achieve starting capacity. Return can be measured here. You can also attach a clear line to check the return for air bubbles here.
4) You should also have a minimum of 150-200 cranking RPMs. If your batteries are weak and you are not attaining the minimum cranking, your vehicle will not start.
[/FONT]
[FONT="]INJECTION PUMP BLEEDING[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT="]Once you have satisfied these four requirements, the injection pump should be bleed. This is best done by attaching and properly tightening the lines at the head of the injection pump, and loosely attaching them at the injectors.[/FONT][FONT="] [/FONT][FONT="]As you are turning the vehicle over, you will begin to get a fuel foam, a mixture of air and fuel, coming out at the line connection, at that time go ahead and lock down the line nut to the injector. Repeat procedure until all lines are bled completely.[/FONT][FONT="]
-
If after doing this procedure the vehicle does not start, please do the following:
1) Attach a clear line to the return side of the injection pump and inspect for air bubbles. If you have air getting into the system, correct the problem before proceeding.
2) Attach a hose directly from the injection pump to an alternate source of fuel. You will need approximately 2-5 gallons for this test. You will need to bypass the entire fuel system, including the lift pump, for this test to be done properly. The injection pump has an internal supply pump that will pull fuel from the source.[/FONT]
[FONT="] Rubber Fuel Injector flex line kit: w/ clamps that hold them on. Does not come with the caps for #7 and #8:[/FONT][FONT="]
Dorman 904-101, it was $9.52 [/FONT]
-The injectors and the pump must be matched to one another by an injector shop.
[FONT="] [/FONT]
[FONT="]ELECTRICAL:[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT="]If you are troubleshooting the CUCV electrical system, the wiring diagrams are in the Appendix of the Tech Manuals, Appendix F of TM 9-2320-289-20 and Appendix E of the TM 9-2320-289-34.[/FONT][FONT="]
Also if you need instructions or a refresher on how to read the diagrams, read the first few pages of the Troubleshooting section of the above manuals.
They cover how to read the diagrams, wire labeling, wire sizes, colors, etc.....
[/FONT]
[FONT="]VIBRATIONS / WOBBLE / LOOSENESS:[/FONT]
[FONT="]Check for: Bent rims, worn steering components, worn wheel bearings, warped brakes, tire balance, pressures & broken belts, worn rubber bushings, steering stabilizer, Alignment. [/FONT]
[FONT="]If you have vibrations at low speeds rotate your rear driveshaft 180* on the pinion.[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT]
[FONT="] [/FONT]
[FONT="]KING PIN REPLACEMENT INFO:[/FONT]
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...pin/index.html[FONT="][/FONT]
[FONT="] [/FONT]
[FONT="]SHIFTING ISSUES:[/FONT]
[FONT="]Check: vacuum lines to the transmission modulator, modulator (adjust or replace), vacuum pump , vacuum valve on the side of the injector pump, fluid level, replace filter
[/FONT]
[FONT="]BRAKE BOOSTER / HYDROBOOST[/FONT]
[FONT="]-Booster unit is an A1-Cardone # 52-7359 this comes with a diagram to connect the hoses correctly. [/FONT]
[FONT="]-Brake Master Cylinder is Raybestos # MC390542 it’s new and comes complete with reservoir and cap, don’t get the MC390541 its for a vacuum booster.. [/FONT]
[FONT="]-Hoses for the P/S lines going to the booster unit and P/S unit. Edelman 92082 [/FONT]
[FONT="] [/FONT]
[FONT="]REAR MAIN SEAL REPLACEMENT WITHOUT REMOVING ENGINE:[/FONT]
[FONT="]Autozone rear main ~ $22
Autozone oil pan seals ~ $12
-Here are the steps:[/FONT]
[FONT="]Jack up front end frame, to raise frame slightly off axle. Even an inch will help.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Drain oil, remove filter.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Unplug batteries[/FONT]
[FONT="]Remove starter[/FONT]
[FONT="]Remove bottom access for bell housing, tricky since tranny cooling lines have to be pushed over a bit, no need to remove the lines though[/FONT]
[FONT="]Pull oil pan, may need to loosen a line for the front axle breather from frame rail, tends to block access to front bolts on oil pan. Use a screwdriver to gently pry the pan loose from the engine block if it sticks; which it should if RTV was used.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Remove oil pump/pickup[/FONT]
[FONT="]Remove rear main bearing cap[/FONT]
[FONT="]Remove old seal[/FONT]
[FONT="]Install new seal, carefully. I had a helper and with 4 hands we were able to hold it in place while applying pressure to push it in the grove. Take note of placement, mine was labeled which side points out. TM shows a shim which can be made to assist in seal install. I'd be wary though as you don't want to damage the seal.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Following the TM, use anaerobic sealing compound on the rear main cap as specified, install rear main cap and torque to spec.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Reinstall oil pump/pickup[/FONT]
[FONT="]Clean old gasket from oil pan and engine block. RTV oil pan gasket to oil pan, let sit for 10 minutes, RTV top of gasket, let sit a few minutes; then reinstall oil pan while trying not to get RTV places it should not be.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Reinstall bell housing access cover and air breather line for front axle if removed.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Reinstall starter[/FONT]
[FONT="]Install oil filter[/FONT]
[FONT="]Fill oil, check level, etc.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Reconnect batteries[/FONT]
[FONT="]Start it up, recheck oil level after idling for a few minutes and verifying no leaks.[/FONT]
[FONT="] [/FONT]
[FONT="]RPM:[/FONT]
[FONT="]Unless the engine is in rough mechanical shape or on its last legs, it should see a redline of 3600rpm... but after about 2400-2500rpm, you're losing power & wasting fuel. IIRC, max torque occurs in 1800-2200rpm range on a 6.2 –[/FONT]
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[FONT="]4WD SHIFTING:[/FONT]
[FONT="]2hi to 4hi as long as the hubs are locked in you can shift at any speed, do so while coasting no throttle. From 4hi to 4lo stop the vehicle shift to neutral then pull the lever into 4lo may take a bit of a jerk.[/FONT]
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[FONT="]FRONT LOCKING DIFF? CODES:[/FONT]
[FONT="]1GCHD34J0HF311237 (should have front locker)[/FONT][FONT="]
1GCGD34J2FF439536 (does not usually have front locker) [/FONT]
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[FONT="]GENERAL:[/FONT][FONT="]
[/FONT][FONT="]CUCVs use metric bolts so you will need metric tools to work on them.[/FONT][FONT="]
You can find all the GM part numbers you will ever need in the Technical Manual Parts listings.
TM 9-2320-289-20p and TM 9-2320-289-34p
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