CTIS front wheels disconnect

[3dAngus]

I have tried the search engine and read the manual (-24) on CTIS. There are a lot of comments about disconnecting. Still not quite sure of details.

Comments are generally disconnect CTIS at hub. TM is disconnect and replace.
Questions are as follows:

In disconnecting CTIS at the front wheels, has anyone ever "published" specific instructions with pictures of (1.) where to disconnect, (2.)how, (3.)which ends to cap, and (4.) what parts you specifically use to cap it off with. Also, (5.)source for those parts. Not something you get at Lowes I guess.

The comments are helpful, but not specific enough for a noobie to the deuce. I know I am going to get a M35A3 and it is very rare I find one with a perfectly running CTIS system, so I am thinking I might disconnect right away if the front wheels are a problem, in which case, about 50% of the M35A3s I have previewed have a problem with at least one of the front wheels.

So anyway, I know I disconnect at the hub, but do I cap both ends of the air line, or just one or the other and where do I get the parts. Is this something I can do at DRMO in short order? What is the time schedule to pull the lines and cap? Should I do this at home? Some say turn off CTIS and fill tires with air if they leak, but I'm thinking this may not work in all cases where CTIS is a failure on the front wheels. Am I wrong? I have found the adapter and O rings in the tech manual, so I'm catching up, but was hoping for more specific detail, and a picture or two would be sweet but not necessary. I think it would be extremetly helpful if one of you knowledgeable veterans of MVs who have done this, or are about to do it in the near future, publish your actual work for some of us who don't immediately know all the terminology of components and parts that need be procured and go in to follow. Thanks for any help and/or comments.

 

[3dAngus]

Comments? Anyone? I just bought my first deuce today and the front tires leak, so I could use a little more help, especially with the parts list to cap off.

 

[Derrickl112]

on my m936a2 all i did was unscrew the CTIS at the valve stem, put a valve stem core in it, then screwed the CTIS back on.

 

[goodguyzy]

www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/33133-need-disable-m35a3-ctis.html

sorry no direct link, im not computer savvy enough

 

[R Racing]

I think you will find you may have to replace the gromets for your valvestems in your rims. It cured my M35a3 tire leaks. And Congrats !! Its a nice looking A3

 

[tomcata3]

hello,
Here is some pics of how I did all my tires, You have to remove ctis and weight, then put 20oz of antifreeze in tire to balance it. I have lots schrader valves if needed (pm me)
You will also have to go to homedepot and get an adaptor from 7/16 to the elbow on tire
use ms paint to open file, so you can zoom in
Schrader valve specs
Material: Brass
Plating: Nickel
Basic Dimensions: 1.3 OAL, 7/16 hex, 1/8 NPT Pipe thread

 

[glcaines]

I think you will find you may have to replace the gromets for your valvestems in your rims. It cured my M35a3 tire leaks. And Congrats !! Its a nice looking A3

Ditto on replacing the grommets on the valve stems. when I replaced mine, all leaks stopped. Make sure you torque the nut to 45-60 psi like the TM says. None of my tire leaks were from the O-rings or the CTIS, which works great. I don't use the CTIS because I run 55 psi in the tires to make them run smoother. Remember, although the tires are rated for much higher pressure, the A3 wheels have a max pressure limit of 60 psi.

 

[Rustygears]

The CTIS system vents all the lines to the wheels open when turned off, so there is aboliutely no reason to cap or seal the wheel lines if you disconnect since they are already open to the air through that large unfiltered exhaust tube at the bottom of the CTIS manifold. In fact, it is important for the wheel valves to be vented to open air if attached to the tire because the pressure difference is the only way to have them pop shut and isolate the wheel.

As has been mentioned, the rubber grommet is the Achilles heel of the system. Many malign the o rings, wheel valves, etc. when the most common culprit is those crappy little grommets that rot out and leak. Unfortunately, one has to completely dismount and disassemble the tire/wheel to replace it - regardless if you keep the CTIS or not.

 

[Socommfg]

removing CTIS assembly

The CTIS system vents all the lines to the wheels open when turned off, so there is aboliutely no reason to cap or seal the wheel lines if you disconnect since they are already open to the air through that large unfiltered exhaust tube at the bottom of the CTIS manifold. In fact, it is important for the wheel valves to be vented to open air if attached to the tire because the pressure difference is the only way to have them pop shut and isolate the wheel.

As has been mentioned, the rubber grommet is the Achilles heel of the system. Many malign the o rings, wheel valves, etc. when the most common culprit is those crappy little grommets that rot out and leak. Unfortunately, one has to completely dismount and disassemble the tire/wheel to replace it - regardless if you keep the CTIS or not.

I removed the lines on the wheels and balance valve. Inserted valve stem into tire stem and REMOVED the supply line to the CTIS valve. Rerouted it and installed a 1/4 turn valve with air chuck to it. Now I have ALL the air needed to fill the tires quickly, using standard air lines and fillers.

When you remove the BANJO bolt in the wheel, a 3/8 mpt plug works great.

Socom Mfg

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