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Sprag adjustment no bueno or I did it wrong?

samsimpson

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Corpus Christi, TX
I followed the directions for checking and adjusting the sprag from the manual. It seems once you set the front, when you do the rear you are basically undoing your change to the front, or did I do it wrong?

I did the tire check, in forward gears the tire doesn't turn backward, but if you keep trying eventually it will and you can hear a slight bumpy noise (like a grind, but more like something not engaged all the way).

Does that sound like the sprag clutch needs to be replaced? Thanks for any assistance :)

Also I see the manuals here are still down, I know some other sites that have them up but I went ahead and put them up on my site as well, figured the more the merrier.

Military Manuals - Online Dodge Truck & SUV Community for all Mopar - Dodge, Plymouth, Chrysler, Cummins and Jeep owners.
 

BigHank

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I should probably try to adjust mine but I really don't want to do that more than once or worry about the engagement of the front axle. I want it available when I want/need it. So I'm just shopping for a good airshift. Good luck with your repair though.
 

gringeltaube

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........ It seems once you set the front, when you do the rear you are basically undoing your change to the front.............................
Try again but first you should....

1) fully understand how it works, internally; (how it should, at least...) see diagram below and also this thread: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?32130-shifting-sprag-tc-how-works.html

2) disassemble, clean and inspect that shift rod. Replace all rusty components.
3) put back together and adjust according to TM. Read this thread: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?6048-sprag-adjustment.html#post52122


G.
 

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emr

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landing , new jersey
many posts on this but this pic is the best i have seen on this so far, thanks !!!!! I also had alot of trouble with other explanations, I sure agree it is easier when one can see how it works first :) Good post and info!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

3rdmdqm

Active member
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Location
Woodbine Maryland
This is great information. Thank you to all. samsimpson please let us know how this turns out. I was having problems with mine also and settled for taking the front drive shaft out since I didn't understand the mechanics of this. While it runs great now and probably gets much better gas mileage without the front shaft in, I would like to get it back to how it is supposed to be functioning as designed.
 

samsimpson

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Corpus Christi, TX
Ok, I pulled the shift rod and I have to say, pulling that helped me understand how it works :) I did not realize there was play in the rod. When I first pulled it off, I could move the shaft in and out of the shock which made me think the spring was rusted compressed or broke even.

When I pulled it apart it was nice and clean, a little black dust in the shock body but no rust. Spring look pretty **** new.

So I put it back together and saw the play still. That is when I realized it was suppose to be there.

So when I put it back in, with the truck in neutral (from what I read neutral and forward gears leaves the piston pushed all the way out) I screwed the shift rod all the way in on the shifter arm.

Then I adjusted out (make the rod longer) until it just started to move the piston (on the tcase) back in. So I adjusted it to where it was just wanting to move.

Jacked the truck up and the tire test works!

The main problem I think people have (or at least my problem) was that I didn't realize there was play in the shift rod (shock body) so my forward adjustments were probably so far out then were just moving the rod and it wasn't close to moving the piston.
 

samsimpson

New member
108
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Location
Corpus Christi, TX
Just to clarify, when I say I didn't realize there was play in the rod, I mean I understood there was a spring in there and it would move, but I didn't no realize there was uncompressed play, meaning the rod could move without compressing the spring.
 
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