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New Deuce and some Questions...

ratat98

New member
367
1
0
Location
Shattuck, Oklahoma
Hello All!
Well, I finally broke down and did it...After a full weekend and 500 miles of driving. I am now the proud owner of a 1972 green hunk of awesome! Bought from a fellow SS member!

Anyways, I have some issues you guys can probably help me with:

1. I just went down to the insurance office, and the lady I get my insurance through, literally banged her head on the desk and said "I'll do some research and call you back", so meantime, I'm doing my own research, and I've found that State Farm, and Gulfway Insurers seem to be two pretty good options, but let me know what you all think! The PO used state farm, but I can't get them to call me back.

2. It started leaking oil from the front of the engine on the way to its new home, and I found that the oil was filled way over full, could this oil be coming from a breather or do I need to start looking at some new seals? (looks like it could be coming from a seal behind the water pump but I'm new to multifuels so please enlighten me!)

3. The drivers door latch, won't latch. It did when I bought it, but about 200 miles into the trip, the door wont stay shut. How do you get the mechanism out of the door to repair it? It acts like there is a broken or stuck spring of some sort in it.

4. Also, I live in a small town and I'm wondering how I explain to the town that I'm not crazy and I don't need to be put into the insane asylum? :grd:
Thanks in advance!

-Rat
 

F18hornetM

Active member
1,135
10
38
Location
Ocean City, Md
I got my insurance through state farm, very reasonable.

If the latch is stuck in maybe rusted, or need lube not sure, but if you need to take it out it comes out through the access panel of the door, gotta have skinny arms, or in my case scratch them up.
Roll window up and take screws out of outside handle as well as latch mechanism, they come out together. Putting back in is easier if you have someone look through latch opening and tell you how to position it. I know this cause i just had mine out, had to weld a small wore piece on the latch mechanism. You can take the latch apart, by straighteneing the tabs. worked for me anyway.
 

wreckerman893

Possum Connoisseur
15,629
2,054
113
Location
Akenback acres near Gadsden, AL
Try some WD-40 or other lube on the latch.

I insure my deuce through JC Taylor for 100 bucks a year full coverage......but you have to send them pictures of the building it will be stored in. There are also a lot of restrictions on how you can use it.

Search is your friend.
 

91W350

Well-known member
4,414
57
48
Location
Salina, Kansas
Check to make sure the oil is not runny and smells like diesel. The FDC is bypassed on that one. Not sure how diesel would be getting in there. I will get you the filter numbers, but it would not hurt to change it. If a seal someplace let loose and diesel has started running into the crankcase, we need to figure that out asap. When you drain the oil, drain the rear dump first into a bucket, then empty the bucket and drain the front dump. Please post up what you find, it should not manufacture oil. Glen
 

ratat98

New member
367
1
0
Location
Shattuck, Oklahoma
Hey Glen! Already ahead of you on the oil. It sticks to the dipstick good and smells and, appears to be diesel free.. I thought about that when I first noticed the problem. It does look like it needs an oil change, but I think diesels need oil changes right after they are changed anyways, so I wasn't sure about that! You did say you had it insured through State Farm right?
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
232
63
Location
OKC, OK
Welcome to the OD Green Madness.

We have a group of guys (65+) here in Oklahoma that get together a few times thru out the year. Send me your contact info and I will put you on the list.

Glen is a good soldier and his trucks are A+. Not saying something won't break because it is 40+ years old.

On the door handle, lube it up and rock the interior handle back and forth. I have one on a 5ton that sticks. Nothing wrong with it, just hangs up every once in a while.
 

M35A2-AZ

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,222
392
83
Location
Tonopah, AZ
Besure and check the oil about 1 min. after turning the motor off.
If you check it later it will show way full, due to the filter drain back.

Just something to think about.
 

Warthog

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Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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When are you checking the oil level? Per the TM it should be checked within a few minutes after engine shutdown. This is before the oil has a chance to drain back out of the filters.

If you allow the oil in the fiters to drain back to the pan, that will add a gallon or so of oil to the total.

*** Edit ***

Beat me too it...lol
 

91W350

Well-known member
4,414
57
48
Location
Salina, Kansas
Besure and check the oil about 1 min. after turning the motor off.
If you check it later it will show way full, due to the filter drain back.

Just something to think about.

In hot weather a minute might be too long, it has 15 40 Rotella in it and if you had water in the oil, it would look like slimy coagulated chocolate milk. You would know that right away.

That one does drain back quickly and always read over full. I have never had to add oil to that engine. I really hope it is not having any trouble, the offer for a full refund stands, I will come and get it too! 8) Glen
 

ratat98

New member
367
1
0
Location
Shattuck, Oklahoma
Besure and check the oil about 1 min. after turning the motor off.
If you check it later it will show way full, due to the filter drain back.

Just something to think about.
Haha I've checked it about 1 minute after...when i first noticed it, I checked it right away, and it was overfull... I'm going to go crack the drain and see if anything besides oil comes out, then if I don't find anything I'll let it warm up, and check it again and see what it tells me.
As for the door handle, I lubed it up good yesterday and just havent gotten to check it today and see if the oils seeped in. Sounds like a pretty common problem!
 

ratat98

New member
367
1
0
Location
Shattuck, Oklahoma
In hot weather a minute might be too long, it has 15 40 Rotella in it and if you had water in the oil, it would look like slimy coagulated chocolate milk. You would know that right away.

That one does drain back quickly and always read over full. I have never had to add oil to that engine. I really hope it is not having any trouble, the offer for a full refund stands, I will come and get it too! 8) Glen
Haha it could be the hot weather! It didn't get below 95 on the way home, and that was only for a couple minutes. I passed a bank sign that i swear said 120! Haha you really miss it don't you??
 

91W350

Well-known member
4,414
57
48
Location
Salina, Kansas
Best running deuce I was ever around. Not that I drove hundreds, but that one really ran good. It did nothing wrong, well, the low side of the transfer case being hard to shift into maybe. I think a lever adjustment would fix that and I think that Artic boot is what blocks it from shifting every time. Once it goes in, it never kicks out, it does not shift hard, it just does not seem to fall in gear like it should.

A guy really should not sell a truck like that, but I am not one to back down. I offered you choice, thinking the newer, nicer looking A2C would go. Ha! Made the same offer to a local guy and he took it, then I was not about to tell you I would not sell it after I said I would.

Yeah, I miss it and it is one of those things I will regret selling, but if I had kept them all, I would need a 10 acre lot to park them in. 8)
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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NY
The oil should be about 1" above the full line. I keep mine at the "K" in "check oil" on the dipstick.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,266
1,782
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Measure 1-1/2 inches up the dip stick from the full mark and mark that some how. Is that about where the oil is? Unless you are pulling the cut off at the IP and putting in a clean stick to pull out right away, you really could just be reading the oil wrong.

Mine just stays around the X in maximum on the stick. I haven't even wiped it off for at least a year now when I check it. If it is around the X, we are good to go.

Also, you really can't just "crack the drain" on these things. The best advice I have ever read for changing LDT oil is to put a 5 gallon bucket inside a formed plastic kiddie pool. Once you pull that plug, the oil is coming out and I doubt you will be able to get it back on.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,266
1,782
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
As you can tell. We all have our own ways. Change your oil, put in the amount listed on the data plate to bring it to full, run it, let it sit a while and then figure out what letter of what word is your cold check line.
 

Tlauden

Member
840
3
18
Location
Halifax Pennsylvania
Hello All!
Well, I finally broke down and did it...After a full weekend and 500 miles of driving. I am now the proud owner of a 1972 green hunk of awesome! Bought from a fellow SS member!

Anyways, I have some issues you guys can probably help me with:

1. I just went down to the insurance office, and the lady I get my insurance through, literally banged her head on the desk and said "I'll do some research and call you back", so meantime, I'm doing my own research, and I've found that State Farm, and Gulfway Insurers seem to be two pretty good options, but let me know what you all think! The PO used state farm, but I can't get them to call me back.

2. It started leaking oil from the front of the engine on the way to its new home, and I found that the oil was filled way over full, could this oil be coming from a breather or do I need to start looking at some new seals? (looks like it could be coming from a seal behind the water pump but I'm new to multifuels so please enlighten me!)

3. The drivers door latch, won't latch. It did when I bought it, but about 200 miles into the trip, the door wont stay shut. How do you get the mechanism out of the door to repair it? It acts like there is a broken or stuck spring of some sort in it.

4. Also, I live in a small town and I'm wondering how I explain to the town that I'm not crazy and I don't need to be put into the insane asylum? :grd:
Thanks in advance!

-Rat
1: I love state farm and they got mine insured for $27 a month

2: Sorry cant help, not that familiar yet either

3: Start with some lube, mine stuck bad but some spray on lube helped ALOT

4: You dont explain, just drive and smile, they will understand someday, maybe... LOL

oh and nopics
 

John S-B

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,796
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113
Location
Ostrander, Ohio
Some times it's better for them to think you're crazy, they won't give you any crap if they think you'll go psycho!! :cookoo:
 

91W350

Well-known member
4,414
57
48
Location
Salina, Kansas
Is it about 1.5" above the full mark? I put in 5.5 gallons of oil when I changed it and it always has read about that high when checked after a cold start. After a hot start, it will read higher, maybe 2.5 inches or so. I knew I started with 22 quarts and never added any, so it being a little over full on the stick never bothered me. I wish I was there to take a look, the easy way would be to just drain it and fill it again to see where it puts you. It has been about 3,000to 3,500 miles since I changed it when I got it home from South Dakota. Let us know what you find, my offer is still good, might not be after Thursday, but for now it is! :beer: It is a great truck, be glad to have her back. Glen
 
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