6.2L detroit in a 715/725?

[Welder Sam]

Ive located 2 715's (in various states of decay and incomplete), a 725, & a K-5 w/6.2L. Im wondering if anyone has dropped a civillian 6.2 into a 715? If so, what kind of results did u have? Id like to use the k-5 axles and brake system but i wanna keep it std trans. Preferrably a 5spd. Also, would the starter be 12 or 24v? A complete 12v conversion would be nice. Where could i locate a std bellhousing for a 6.2?

As far as my thought process has gone is get all 3, as the same guy has them, use the best 715 for the base and scavenge the rest from the others. If enough is left, dropping a 350 in the 725 and letting my wife have it. Shes an rn and has a thing for mv ambulances.


Any help would be nice and appreciated, however, lets keep it civil plz.

 

[kevin-m1008]

On a M715 or M725 the stock starter will be 24v.

Depending on the year of the M715, converting to 12v is as simple as changing bulbs. at least on a 68 it is.

With stock 5.87 gears changing axles is a good idea when going to a diesel, But not sure K5 axles are a good choice depending on your usage of the truck. I have a 4bta in mine with 4.56 gears and 38" tires and it does rather well for my usage.

If you were closer to me I would be interested in your old axles.

you might post over at the M715zone they knew these vehicles very well.

 

[Welder Sam]

Hmmm... how i would catagorize how i would use it..... ummm... "recon vehicle", cruising truck(?), light duty for sure. My 5k lbs suburban is riding on 1/2 ton axles and ive exceeded the gvwr many times. If i were to pull or haul anything it would be a fuel tank setup. Still pondering that one tho. Not a work truck at all. Im lookg at deisel for fuel commonality with the planned deuce and crewcab deuce. Easier to keep one type of fuel around

 

[kevin-m1008]

Some things to think about.
1. The springs on a M715 are outboard of the frame unless you put disk brakes on the back it will be a very tight fit depending on the width of the K5 axles.
2. If you have "exceeded the gvwr many times" on the Suburban it is still not a good idea. Maybe find a set of CUCV axles and with the overdrive(assuming it is an automatic) that is in the K5 now will put the 4.56 gears just about right for hauling and good fuel economy.
YMMV

 

[Welder Sam]

Good points!
1. Might u have the measurement of the spring width? Spring pack bolt ctrs would also be nice. I have a 1/2ton chevy 3.73 posi rear diff housing to measure for comp.
2. I concede that its neither safe nor wise to exceed the gvwr. Id like to get away from mil-spec axles if possible. Towing would be minimal however, even i prefer 3/4ton axles if cost feasible. However, ill take lighter ones and be happy. No hard core anything for me. Im hoping to have larger rigs for those duties id prefer to keep the ratio no lower than 3.73/4.10.

 

[The PIG Smith]

Id like to get away from mil-spec axles if possible.

CUCV axles are easy to find what I would recommend.
Just because they came under a CUCV, they are far from mil-spec axles are common as grass.
The 14bolt and Dana 60 front axle are ideal for your application.
Best thing, they have the gear ratio you need for your 6.2.

Yes, you need to move some spring perches on the axle or relocate the 715 spring packs.

 

[Welder Sam]

Rice, soy beans, corn, and wheat is all that as common as grass around here other than tractors. Cucv axles, i assume have disc front brakes? Ive yet to see a cucv anywhere in the state other than on the gl site and.. well.. i dont see that as a serious option. The nearest place that may be able to hook me up would be memphis eq annd they are proud of what they have there and as current, i dont trust the sub w/300k+ mi to go that far. My apologies if it seems as tho im whining. I respect ur input. Just dont see mv axles as being desireable given my location.

 

[DicedDeuceMan]

Does you DMV have a sense of humor?

Take a Blazer with the 6.2 in it.

Remove body.

Install Body of your disire, a 715.

Div of Motor Vehicles reconizes the frame as the title .

This would be the Humor part.

If you stare at my avatar, eventually, you will see a 75 chevy with tilt wheel, big block chevy. The motor never got moved. Could you get this lucky? I dunno.

Will you get lucky at DMV. probally not.

Using a frame with a straigher rail behind cab, might be needed. 4 door pickup frames work well.

 

[Welder Sam]

Ha! Humor? Not even close! These ppl have no humor bc the comp screen they stare at doesnt tell them to have humor. This office, no matter the title, will be the origination point of the zombie take over

 

[bcowanwheels]

6.2's are junk. Dont waste your time with that engine. They crack in the main bearing web alot !!!!!

 

[Welder Sam]

Ok. So ur against the 6.2. How abt a civilian deisel suggestion

 

[DicedDeuceMan]

Never heard the 6.2 with web thing, (anything is possible)
Most 6.2 issues I thougth were rocker arm and or stud ?

6.2's fame were just dogs. there is a guy that is turning his 5k on rpm, runs 2 injectors pumps to get enough fuel, I believe turbo ect. On a Massey Ferg tractor puller.

Problems with 6.5's turbo, getting it in the space, Injectors pumps in them, I dislike (95) year I had one, bought 2 pumps in 3 years time.

Seen a couple of guys putting the 4 cyl Perkins? or cummings .one was into a M37. Give it alittle time, someone will post some links.

 

[Recovry4x4]

6.2's are junk. Dont waste your time with that engine. They crack in the main bearing web alot !!!!!

Excellent point! As long as folks keep pushing that "Junk" mantra, the engine will remain inexpensive. On my fixed income I just can't go out and buy a Cummins for my junk so I use the 6.2s. After 400,000 on one, 225,000 on my current 6.2 and nearly 200,000 on a 6.5, I'll continue to waste my time. CUCV axles, while a great choice, are not quite inexpensive. Perhaps 3/4 ton Chevy stuff will work. 14 bolt rears are strong and cheap and you can get something with decent gear choice.

 

[Welder Sam]

Thanks brother. Seems like u have a pretty good idea of where im comming from and going.

 

[Warthog]

Wolf.Dose has been running the 6.2L in his M715 for years over in Germany.

There has been countless others.

Checkout www.m715zone.com for many options.

There has been everything from 4 banger gassers, cummins, detroits, powerstrokes, SBC, BBC and just about anything you can think of put in the trucks.

All it takes is time and money.

 

[Welder Sam]

Time… well i can get time do work it here there and yonder

Money… i know theres cheaper swaps but theres also much more expensive ones. This seems to fit what i want/need from the truck.

Thanks for the link brother

 

[spicergear]

I put a 6.2, NV4500, and NP205 in a M715. It was a nice swap. Ample engine room, truck was pretty gutsy with all the gearing. It was very mechanical feeling though; ie, you gave it 'gas' it went- you lifted, you slowed. I used the simple mounting plates I designed from the Chevrolet 3 bolt block pattern right to the 2 bolt stock M715 rubber engine mount.

 

[indy4x4fab]

325,00 miles on my 6.2 and still going strong.

 

[Welder Sam]

Gutsy, mechanical, fab req'd. Thats all good by me. Can yall elaborate on ur installs? Details and pics are AWESOME! Thanks!

 

[spicergear]

I probably do some things the hard way but...I wanted a mechanical clutch and didn't want to spend money for a factory aluminum bell that I wasn't sure I could get a non hydraulic clutch for anyway. I modified a steel scattershield for the transmission. You could make the swap wildly less complicated by running a juice clutch and the parts are way easy available. I chose the NV4500 because of the nice low first gear and fairly tall overdrive. Plus they're a tough transmission. I also chose the Chevrolet NV4500 as it has a fixed rear yoke where the slip yoke Dodge version had problems under a big loads. Engine placement was seeing how much room forward there was and where the transmission mount landed on the tranny crossmember. It all fits very on the M715 chassis. The plates I used for the engine mount are VERY simple and VERY effective and take a big headache out of the swap. Look at the 3 bolt pattern on the side of the engine for the motor mount. Now, take a 3/8" steel plate, give yourself about an inch of clearance on those bolts to the outside of the plate and make it that wide/tall. Then, LEAVE THE STOCK JEEP MOUNTS IN and make sure the plate width will grab both of the those bolts on the that engine mount. Position engine and look at how the block mounting pad lines up on the jeep rubber mounts. You may end up with the rear block mount overlapping with the jeep mount to locate engine front to rear. Simply countersink that bolt hold and use a tapered head capscrew there and you're set.

I put glow plugs on a Ford starter relay with a simple switch on the dash to engage it so the load wasn't on the switch. Also a simple on/off toggle for the pink (if memory serves) for the fuel solenoid on the injector pump. Pretty straight forward swap.