OK, I'm confused

[M1008driver]

What is this thing? I've heard it called a starter solenoid switch and a glow plug solenoid. I was under the impression it is the first.

I do not have a glow plug resister behind the air breather I keep seeing in pics here. Just trying to understand...

 

[101coolcars]

That part is for the glow plugs, it is commonly used as a "starter" solenoid, but is your applicattion is a "glowplug" solenoid. all the tms are in the referance sections and i highly recomend your print out the schmatics and keep them with the truck for referance.

Thanks
Terry

 

[M1008driver]

I have them printed and in the glove box, but I usually print the instructions for the part I am working on, then throw it in the box for future reference.

So, I am using a starter solenoid as a glow plug solenoid because the glow plug resister is bypassed and that is why my 60g's have given me no problems? That's a mouthful...is this correct?

 

[Cucvnut]

how is it bypassed ?

 

[M1008driver]

Well, first I am not a mechanic, just a guy that reads the forum and TM's. It looks like to the rear battery and stepped down at the 12 volt junction block before going to the gp solenoid or gp relay, whatever it is called. I took some pics as they do not lie...

EDIT- The thread tells allot. What is it and why did it smoke

 

[Recovry4x4]

See the black cover on the firewall behind the aircleaner? Resistor is behind that. See the wire coming from behind rgat and going to the solenoid.

 

[doghead]

The picture in post #1, is a relay. A relay is an electromagnetic switch.

The thing on the starter is a solenoid. By definition is a solenoid, used to make mechanical movement(engages the starter Bendix).

 

[Warthog]

What is this thing? I've heard it called a starter solenoid switch and a glow plug solenoid. I was under the impression it is the first.

I do not have a glow plug resister behind the air breather I keep seeing in pics here. Just trying to understand...

Man you need to go back to class and take some more notes.....

It is neither. It is not a solenoid. It is a relay. Relays can be used for many things. In the instance it is the Glowplug Relay.

Looking at the pictures, your glowplugs ARE hooked up for 24v.

The big RESISTOR PACK behind the air breather sure looks like it is hooked up as stock. We need better pictures of where the wires on the RESISTOR PACK are hooked up.

 

[K9Vic]

From what I can tell your GP system is connected to the resistor and that is connected to 24v as it would be stock. If you have 8 good GPs the resistance will drop the 24v to about 12v and start the truck well. If you have 1 bad GP it will drop the voltage to like 14v and start the truck, but you will begin to burn your GPs hotter. Any more bad GPs and you start to get higher on the voltage and that will burng out more GP and from there even more which is bad.

This is why people bypass the resistor and connect to 12v so that it will always get 12v even if a GP goes bad. I do this to any CUCV I have as it just makes sense to me to save $90 investment on GP as if you replace one, you best replace them all.

My math on the voltage may not be all accurate, but just making a general visual of what happens.

 

[M1008driver]

OK, I know the starter solenoid is attached to the starter. So when a solenoid, BWD-Solenoid, is used for the gp's it is a gp relay? So I have the gp resister (behind the air breather), or is it the gp resister pack?

This is why people bypass the resistor and connect to 12v so that it will always get 12v even if a GP goes bad. I do this to any CUCV I have as it just makes sense to me to save $90 investment on GP as if you replace one, you best replace them all.

I need to research this. I always figured when my 60g's started acting up I would replace all of them instead of just the bad one.

Man you need to go back to class and take some more notes.....

Thanks, my class is the forum and the TM's. I am asking questions about a system I do not understand and when I do understand I will make some improvements.



Here is some pics of the gp resistor...

 

[M1008driver]

I am reading...are there any good threads about bypassing the resister?

glow plugs

Cucvnut said: cant you just put the power wire from the top stud on the relay to the 12v junction block thats above and to the left of the relay to convert it to 12v ?

doghead said: Yes, yes you can.

-So do I move the red wire from the resister to the 12 volt junction block, then remove the resister and wire to the positive terminal junction block to do the resistor bypass?

-Can the gp relay wire stay connected to the rear battery this way?

-Does it affect anything else like the gp controller card or anything gp related?

I am trying to stay with the stock system and get the most reliability I can from the truck, so I am trying to learn instead of doing a garage hack job.

 

[tbearatkin]

This thread has complete pictures of one way to do it

What is it and why did it smoke

I took my GP resister completely out. Removed the wire that went to the 24volt buse bar on the firewall behind the back battery. Some say overkill on the size wire I used but I wanted to make sure I had a large enough wire to carry the amps to the relay. I do not like to see smoke coming from wires that usually means something bad is about to happen.

 

[M1008driver]

CUCV85 wrote: That 12 volt Diamond shaped Terminal Block
to the left and above the GPR works as well.
I used the right side wire including the Eyelet
from that Resistors block

So I am reading I can buy a 48" battery cable and run it from the rear battery to the gp relay and remove the resistor and cables...

or I can just move the right cable from the resistor to the 12 volt junction box, remove the resistor and left side cable and my resistor is bypassed?

Everything else still works?

EDIT- My truck still is in the 24 volt starter configuration and has not been converted.

 

[Recovry4x4]

You have a heavy gage wire coming from behind the black cover to the gp relay. Remove that from the relay, heavily insulate the end and tie it out of the way. Now make a short jumper wire of equal or larger gage and install one end on the relay wher you removed the wire. Attach the other end to the 12 terminal rigjt near the relay and you are set.

 

[doghead]

Here's a link to a post I made a while back, on how to resupply the GP relay with 12 volts.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/726642-post7.html

 

[UncleSam]

Here's a link to a post I made a while back, on how to resupply the GP relay with 12 volts.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/726642-post7.html

Doghead,

In doing the GP relay with 12v this way, did you have to add a manual GP relay switch, or does "wait" light and relay still work correctly with the key switch?

UncleSam

 

[doghead]

Everything works automatically and correctly, as it was designed.

The benefit of doing this is, when one GP goes bad(and they do), it will not effect the others.

The negative of this is, all the GP load will be on one battery instead of both(not a big deal since they are charged independently)

 

[UncleSam]

That's great!!, also so there's no cold weather starting problems with the 12v hookup?

Thanks fo the info,

 

[doghead]

No cold weather issues.

I've been following that thread, I think you'll get it resolved with Warthogs assistance.

 

[M1008driver]

Thanks greatly. That's the way I was thinking, but wanted confirmation. I will be outside working shortly.

I have been studying this: