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door locks

DHennon

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
364
16
18
Location
Orlando, Fl
Deuce door locks

I bought two garage door locking handles from Ace Hwde. They look almost identical to the originals. They have a square shaft just like the ones on the deuce.
1. You have to cut 3/16" off the end of the Ace shaft or the handle will not go in all the way.
2. The plate on the Ace handle will not match up to the outside holes on the deuce door. You can use the upper hole, but need to drill and tap a new hole for the bottom screw. 8-32 woks just fine and you can use the old screw from the original handle.
3. When you look inside the door where the original handle was, you will see a square socket where the square shaft from the original handle mates. You must drill out that square socket just a bit.. I did it with the old trial and error, starting with a drill bit the same size as the square socket and drilled in increments of 1/16" until the new shaft on the Ace handle fit both flush with the door and would easily turn in in the door.

It is a quick install. It took me less time to do one door than to write this email. Cost of the handles at Ace was in the neighborhood of $15.00. I scotchbrite-padded the chrome finish on the Ace handle and sprayed them with Krylon Camo green. Now, I can lock both doors.

As a side note, I installed a barrel bolt on the inside of the passenger door to make sure the door does not fly open if someone does not securely fasten the combat lock. Whenever I leave with a passenger on board, I make sure they have on their seat belt, secure the combat lock and engage the barrel bolt.

I can send you pix if you want. Send me a PM. 2cents
 

jasonjc

Well-known member
5,326
289
83
Location
Gravette Ar.
As a side note, I installed a barrel bolt on the inside of the passenger door to make sure the door does not fly open if someone does not securely fasten the combat lock. Whenever I leave with a passenger on board, I make sure they have on their seat belt, secure the combat lock and engage the barrel bolt.

2cents

I like this idea mite just put these/those on both doors.:beer:

As for the OP, some one also but dead bolts in the lower corner of the doors. They did a good wirte up on it. Try searching for "security" seems like there was a long thread on all kinds of ways too lock the doors, battery switch, fuel cap , ect..
 
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treeguy

New member
605
3
0
Location
Fort One Bay - Cape Cod, MA
I fabed a top secret door lock for the drivers door and the pass. door can be locked first from the inside. If I show you it won't be top secret any more would it. Just kidding, I'll go see if I can get pictures now while its dark. I'll be back.
 

treeguy

New member
605
3
0
Location
Fort One Bay - Cape Cod, MA
Check out this set up. The little green rod in the first pic. is just above flush with the bottom of the body. This you push up to lock which puts a dead bolt into the door. The hole in the door is reinforced with tubing welded to a 1/4" square plate inside the door. That is what the 4 allen cap screws thread into, like wise with the door jam (was off a little when I drilled the primary hole, will fill with JB weld). You can see the linkage which the rod controls, toggling the triangle plate to engage the dead bolt into the door jam. There is a notch in the rod to catch the deuce floor to keep the rod up and lock engaged. The vertical tube is 1/2" iron pipe and the rod is 1/2" but because of the way the US measures pipe there is play so the hole in the floor is tighter and the notch in the rod catches on this little lip. You can even operate the linkage from inside if you wanted to. Because of the play in the pipe that I mentioned the dead bolt slides nicely into the door, I also keep it greased.
I hope this gives some ideas. Getting this set up all lined up perfect was a trick. The top of the vertical tube is stabilized with a welded tab that bolts to the remaining threads from the bolt holding on the outside grab handle.
 

m376x6

New member
357
4
0
Location
Colorado
Years ago I did some searching and found a keyed external door handle with a built in lock. I found them at Orr & Orr. I got a catalog from them almost a year ago and found they still offer the door handle. I liked it because the holes were the same distance apart as the M37 door screw holes. I realize you're posting for a duece but they may be the same. I used counter sunk hex head screws to slow down someone who was set on getting in the cab. Since I like canvas tops I figure it is for honest folks anyway. You'll have to trim the square shaft to length for your application. I remember having to slightly enlarge the large center hole to clear the large part of the underside shaft mount. Measure the distance between your existing threaded holes to make sure you don't have to really modify your truck if you decide to go a locking handle route. I don't have the Orr catalog here at work with me, if you're interested I'll dig it up and see if I can find the part number.
 

m376x6

New member
357
4
0
Location
Colorado
I just went online and I'm pretty sure it was H-9045 for the handle. I don't remember if I installed these or not on my personal dueces years ago. Good luck.
 

maccus

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
The first couple of trucks I put locks on I did pretty much what DHennon did. Then I took a door handle (for a spacing copy) to a very good and well stocked lock shop. And low and behold they had no less than 7 different styles and different spacing on the mounting holes. I found one that had a perfect match to the hole spacing on a deuce handle. Also that style came in two tumbler set ups. One type had a unique key for each handle and one type came with the same tumblers in many of the same handles. I used one of the special screws that you have to have special tools to remove the screw. Works well and is easy to install.

Whoops m376x6 ( how are you doing Bryan?) must have been typing at the same time I was.
 
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treeguy

New member
605
3
0
Location
Fort One Bay - Cape Cod, MA
The reason that I didn't go with a locking handle is that I didn't want someone to rip the thing off trying to get in. With what I did you can still turn the handle just the door won't open, so you can tell that turning the handle doesn't do anything to unlock the door. The square shafts inside these handles is not very prone to twisting and most often is found that way.

This also keeps in step with not having to carry around a key to operate the truck!
 
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paramedic7831

New member
96
0
0
Location
Thomasville, Georgia- USA
Check out this set up. The little green rod in the first pic. is just above flush with the bottom of the body. This you push up to lock which puts a dead bolt into the door. The hole in the door is reinforced with tubing welded to a 1/4" square plate inside the door. That is what the 4 allen cap screws thread into, like wise with the door jam (was off a little when I drilled the primary hole, will fill with JB weld). You can see the linkage which the rod controls, toggling the triangle plate to engage the dead bolt into the door jam. There is a notch in the rod to catch the deuce floor to keep the rod up and lock engaged. The vertical tube is 1/2" iron pipe and the rod is 1/2" but because of the way the US measures pipe there is play so the hole in the floor is tighter and the notch in the rod catches on this little lip. You can even operate the linkage from inside if you wanted to. Because of the play in the pipe that I mentioned the dead bolt slides nicely into the door, I also keep it greased.
I hope this gives some ideas. Getting this set up all lined up perfect was a trick. The top of the vertical tube is stabilized with a welded tab that bolts to the remaining threads from the bolt holding on the outside grab handle.

I got 5$ on this guy has aircraft history. looks like the same aircraft engineering you see on the linkage setup. Well made man
 
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