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Allright Pros, need some help! Brake question

dozer1

Member
833
13
18
Location
Sargeant, Minnesota
Dot 3 or 5 ?? mixed? You may never know for sure but it very likely had dot 5 off the GL lot if that is where it came from. Ask the guy if he knows the difference and if he ever added fluid. If he says he went to walmart and got 2 quarts and blead the crap out of it, you can bet he threw in dot 3 and mixed it. If so, I would definetly go through the entire brake system. Rebuilding and replacing everything.

There is a decent chance that he is right. It needs a MC. If it were me, I would get it towed or trailered to your location and work on the brakes. You just will never know what is wrong untill you dig into it.
 

3dAngus

Well-known member
4,719
101
63
Location
Perry, Ga.
If you gave more info it would help. Does the air stay up to 120 pounds when you depress the brake pedal over and over? Might be an air pack if not. Does the pedal have any resistance at all? Does it stay on the floor? How does it feel when pressed over and over. Does any presure build up, even the slightest bit? You need two people, one underneath with it running, in neutral, brake on, wheels chocked, to listen for air leaks when depressing the brake.
Check the reservoir for fluid, wheels for leaks inside the rims. Might be a clue there. Should be a leak somewhere if fluid problems. Otherwise, change out your master. Good luck, and report back for the rest of us.
 

Vanniek71

Member
32
0
6
Location
Colorado
I'll know more to tell you all today. Going down to take a look at it and dig in. I'll get pics and check what you guys have said to look at. I will likely get a tow if I decide to buy it, depends on the rest of the truck. It could be completely destroyed, I have no idea yet.
 

hilber

New member
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Location
S. of Elberton, GA
Mine was a little soft when I pushed the petal. Filled it with the correct fluid and pumped it up with no problems since. No leaks or anything. I have found that as shoes wear it takes a little fluid addition from time to time and having grown up on a farm, I have always checked my fluids before moving anything if htere was a concern. Dad taught me well and 63 years later I still adhere to his principles of good maintenance. What was right then is still right. DO YOUR MAINTENANCE and your equipment will be safe and will last.

I would fill it up first if it needs it and pump it with the filler cap off. See what happens. Mine would bubble after I let off so I knew I had air in the lines. Then once you do it a few times, check for leaks. Also as already been said be sure you have good air pressure also.
 

Vanniek71

Member
32
0
6
Location
Colorado
Ok went and looked at the deuce today, well my 1st look lets say. The guy wasn't able to meet me, so I didn't try to start it or mess with anything without him there. I want to go back and start it and check the fluids ect to see if the brakes are an easy fix, or something a little more complicated. Good thing is, this thing is literally 5-6 miles from my house is all, so if a tow is needed, it should be relatively cheap compared to an across the US tow.

I got some pics of the stuff people told me to check, and to me there is a little leakage, but doesn't look like enough fluid to cause failure on a whole brake system.

Here are the pics of the leakage. I crawled all over under the truck and these were the only 2 leak spots I saw. There was barely any fluid on the ground at all, and looked like light leakage from both front wheels.




Here are the rest of the pics I got.

Looks rough, but they painted it with some crappy paint that is peeling and adds to the overall rough look, just needs to be stripped down and repainted. Not a lot of rust or anything on it. Few minor dents and stuff which is to be expected, little hammering and some pulling and it would look good enough.








Data plates.




And the only real damage I saw:

Winch cable was snapped (somehow)


Dent under drivers side mirror mount



And the bumper had some minor cracks at the shackle tow mounts, presumably from being towed out of something. Little hammer work and some welds would fix that up.

Tell me what you guys think......It's a project, but that's what I'm looking for!

(also, interior wasn't in bad shape at all, although someone had left the window down and I was greeted by several hornets...luckily it was 45 degrees today so they barely paid me any attention. I will have to make sure they are long gone before I start that thing though lol.


Bah just realized can't put pics in the direct message, so they are linked and thumbnailed below.
 

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cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Here is my impression and two cents: To me, this looks like a truck that was off roaded and then left standing between adventures, as opposed to doing maintenance on it. Axles leaking, brakes defective, winch broken etc. are pretty much the usual fare in this case. Little details, such as the bent threaded part of the rear spring U-bolt that happens when the axle gets hung up (massively) indicate the above to me. I'd like to see what you find when you pull the hubs.

This means that the truck is indeed a project; it needs to be gone trough from front to back and top to bottom. I am sure that there are many little things that need attention. It is far from being roadworthy.

It's all do-able and it sure can be a fun project. Parts cost will add up and the sale price better reflect this fact.

My two cents.
 
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73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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on a single circuit brake system, ANY leak WILL cause no brakes and no peddle ( with both fronts leaking), look at the winch drive connection, bet there is a BOLT in use where the SHEAR pin goes
 

Vanniek71

Member
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0
6
Location
Colorado
Here is my impression and two cents: To me, this looks like a truck that was off roaded and then left standing between adventures, as opposed to doing maintenance on it. Axles leaking, brakes defective, winch broken etc. are pretty much the usual fare in this case. Little details, such as the bent threaded part of the rear spring U-bolt that happens when the axle gets hung up (massively) indicate the above to me. I'd like to see what you find when you pull the hubs.

This means that the truck is indeed a project; it needs to be gone trough from front to back and top to bottom. I am sure that there are many little things that need attention. It is far from being roadworthy.

It's all do-able and it sure can be a fun project. Parts cost will add up and the sale price better reflect this fact.

My two cents.
I pointed the u bolt out to my buddy, and was like what the **** did that? As well as the Winch. I think you hit the nail on the head, it was a weekend toy, that someone didn't really maintain (broken front and side window, leaks, dent, broken winch, etc etc.

I don't mind fixing the stuff at all, I find it really fun actually, but I think you are right about it needs to be a good price.

Just an out there question.....What would you expect to pay or more importante what WOULD you pay for a Deuce like this?

I will disclose what the seller is asking after I get some answers, just to see where this guy is. I have a figure in my mind, but you all being more experienced with these, I want to see if I'm close, or outta my mind.
 

Vanniek71

Member
32
0
6
Location
Colorado
on a single circuit brake system, ANY leak WILL cause no brakes and no peddle ( with both fronts leaking), look at the winch drive connection, bet there is a BOLT in use where the SHEAR pin goes

Good to know, I had no idea! I'm very much a rookie lol.

Where is the shear pin located? I may go look over it again, and I will take a look and see if thats the case. I would be willing to bet you are 100% right though, I would assume that the shear pin SHOULD break before the winch cable, especially one as thick as the cable that is on these winches would snap.
 

Westex

Member
579
6
18
Location
El Paso, TX
I studied the pics for a while; this is just an opinion, but you might want to reconsider this purchase? Pic number 7 of 9 makes me say this, but then again, I don't know what your overall deal is with the seller. Just food for thougt. It's more fun to DRIVE these things than it is to work on them.
 

Vanniek71

Member
32
0
6
Location
Colorado
I have no deal at all. That's why I have the 10,000,000 questions for you all lol, I want to make sure its something worth buying or even considering buying at all.

(and I DO like working on things, but I WOULD like to drive it too!)
 

NoLeftTurns

Member
43
0
6
Location
Arvada, Co
The tires look wet on the bottom of the wheels. I think it is rain water maybe, but could be brake fluid from leaky wheel cylinders? I think she looks a little rough, but I would reserve judgement until you hear it run or drive it. What are your ultimate intentions with the truck? How many miles/hours?
 

Vanniek71

Member
32
0
6
Location
Colorado
The tires look wet on the bottom of the wheels. I think it is rain water maybe, but could be brake fluid from leaky wheel cylinders? I think she looks a little rough, but I would reserve judgement until you hear it run or drive it. What are your ultimate intentions with the truck? How many miles/hours?

The brake fluid you can see goes about half way down the tires, most of the wet is rain, it poured they day I went and looked at it.

Since I don't know a ton about this, can you guys help me ballpark what it would cost to do the following? (I am going to search too, but keeping in this thread will be easier)


wheel hub replacement/repacks (worst case scenario to be safe) $600ish
Master Cylinder - $100 (already found this one)
Fixing the winch cable - $100
New winch shear pin - $10
Passenger Window replacement - $130
Front Passenger window replacement - $80
All new Filters - $100
New DOT 5 Fluid all around- $100
New oil/filters-
New good batteries- $200
Fixing front bumper - $50 supplies

Like I said gonna do a search, but if someone wants to ballpark it that would be awesome, then I will have a figure of what to offer this guy on it.

Like I said I love to work on things, so replace/repairs are right up my alley, I just don't want to buy something that's gonna end up costing me $10k before its even drivable.

Thanks for all the help so far, its been great learning all this stuff!


*Edit* searched and found some pricing, am I close on this stuff?
 
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RealCavDog

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Joplin, Missouri
Over here in the Joplin area, where they are fairly scarce and you have to travel to find most of them, I thought of getting started with a project that needed some work, and I have to say . . . that has to be one of the roughest I have seen in a while ! Bet the neighbors over there would kick in on the deal for you !

But seriously, that is a LOT of work your looking at, and nothing comes apart easy, or is any of it light ! If your looking for an off-road beater to go out and tear up, it may be a great option to put brakes on and go.

If your looking to build a decent driver and still do your own work quite a bit, well, you may want to shop around a bit. This time last year and again just before our May 22nd tornado, I passed twice on a 71 model much nicer and solid, ran great and brakes only needed a wheel cylinder, for 1700, then again for 1300. I waited and am much happier, and am still looking for another ! VERY ADDICTIVE !

Looks like the guys are giving you some great opinions and food for thought ! Good Luck ! Jay
 

Vanniek71

Member
32
0
6
Location
Colorado
Yeah luckily I am not as trigger happy as I was 2 weeks ago. Overall the truck isn't in BAD BAD shape, it looks a lot worse because of the junk paint they put on it, other than 1 dent its pretty clean. BUT it doesn't have brakes, needs the winch repaired, windows replaced ect. Guy wants $3500 for it. I was thinking of tossing an offer of $1500 out on it and seeing what I get back. If I could get it for that, even if I don't fix it up I could prolly part it and get my money back :)

Tough thing is finding something more local that I can get to and check out, that's why I was eager on this one, its in the same state and not $7 grand
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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you can find a nice truck in the classified for 3500, that truck sure is not worth 3500 for a non driver (brakes)
 

Vanniek71

Member
32
0
6
Location
Colorado
issue is its another $1500 to get it to me. I was thinking if I can get that truck for $1500, I would be ok with the work I needed to do on it. Trust me I know its not worth $3500 as it is......

I just want to get a truck local 1st, so I can work on it, learn it in and out before I do a longer distance recovery.
 

RealCavDog

New member
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Joplin, Missouri
:ditto: Ooops ! missed it by 1 post !

Super nice for 4000/4500 ! 1500 would have to be almost too much for me, unless I was going to part it for another truck, or build a mud beater .

So, to get it to your place, 3000 ? 1500 to haul it how far ? Just trying to get an idea , thinking thats a bunch of cash just to get started, but I remember back to when I was more optimistic , energetic, and had more disposable cash !
 
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