M109A4 Sub-Zero Oil Field

[Bighurt]

For anyone unfamiliar with North Dakota winter conditions, check out this video, and be sure to listen to the weather report in the background:

YOUTUBE VIDEO

Eh...that's nothin!

Imagine doing that in the middle of the night with 6-8" of snow across the road way. Usually helps not being the first in line but when it's white out conditions the tracks begin to fill immediately.

This winter will probably be mild, they are anticipating 200" of snow.

 

[jmoneysmithmas]

One of the things about the windows - they are already double glazed construction. And it not light glass either. A side window in the metal frame weighs between 40 and 50 pounds. I had to take one off and fix it, then put it back on! You would probably be better off next spring or summer doing what mdmorgan did in his - replace the fiberglass insulation with foam. And while you are at it, decide which windows you want to keep and remove the others, with foam in the empty space. Then re-install the metal walls.

I was curious about the construction of the van body and window assembly- thanks. The seller of the truck explained he had to fix one of the window frames already... the wood that is sandwiched between the metal window frame got wet, then swelled, making the window want to fall out. I didn't realize those frames were that heavy, but it makes sense. I also wasn't aware of the composition of the wall insulation either... R3 foam and some dual-pane windows (with internal blinds) would make a big difference. All good stuff... window and insulation upgrade will probably have to wait until next summer. I would probably cover and insulate over 1/2 of the windows too (as you suggested)... but still try to preserve the outside appearance if possible.

 

[Bighurt]

Ask, and you shall receive...

You'll notice there's a A2 tire as a spare... the truck had a flat/shredded front tire when it was recovered from GL. I need to get (at least) 2 more correct-size tires for spares prior to the long haul...

Well if you get her to ND and find it's to much to deal with let me know...LOL

 

[jmoneysmithmas]

I'll keep that in mind Jeremy.

Since you're a local... you have any good resources to recommend in ND for MV parts, tires, or services that may come in handy for me?

 

[quickfarms]

For the windows you can make shades on the inside out of quilted blanket material.

You should consider a hard top.

One thing I would conside is that your pickup will be 12 volt and the truck is 24 volt. If the truck has been sitting for days in the cold you will need to warn the engine up first and then it may require some either to start it.

The walls are currentaly insulated with fiberglass with a r value of about 3. if you use foam it has an r value of 7 to 9 per inch. Alos the floor is uninsulated wood and there is typically enough gap between the boards for a good draft.

What surveying equipment do you use?

 

[Bighurt]

I'll keep that in mind Jeremy.

Since you're a local... you have any good resources to recommend in ND for MV parts, tires, or services that may come in handy for me?

None, but NAPA can get most anything common to big trucks. And the odd part is easily found online and shipping isn't to bad.

 

[SCSG-G4]

I would probably cover and insulate over 1/2 of the windows too (as you suggested)... but still try to preserve the outside appearance if possible.

All you have to do with that is to leave the blackout panels in place. Put a self tapping screw through the bottom of the panel and you're done (well... maybe a bit of touch up paint on the screw head...). That's the way the back two are in my pantry van ( see the thread "A different kind of M109 conversion").

The window frames are fairly light, probably no more than 10-12 pounds, it's the two pieces of glass that have the weight!

Putting a 'skirt' around the truck in the winter will help keep the cold winds from draining the heat out quite so fast. A hard top will also hold the snow better than the canvas/vinyl, and the entire cab should be insulated if you plan on driving it in the winter ( you will still be wearing an arctic parka or equivalent, but you won't get frostbite if it's insulated ).

 

[3dAngus]

Congrats on your purchase. I am assuming you are waiting until Christmas to pick it up due to your leave situation. You must be a very patient person. Comments as follows:

40 hours for a 2000mile drive is going to be overly optimistic. Expect to spend more time on the road. These things are not that comfortable for driving, will barely beat 50mph on the speedometer and you will need rest, food, and fuel stops. Even with a second driver keeping it going while you sleep, it is unlikely you will make the trip in the 40 hours.

The military solar chargers are not for charging a battery so much as they are for keeping it for discharging during non-use.
They will help keep the battery warm during the day, but not much use at night. If you have a power outlet, a battery charger in trickle charge will work much better.

Ted, over at tktsales has a number of new heaters that just came in. You can use them for your engine block and for your water tank, Just mount with the mounting brackets and plug in the 110 vac ac outlet. My guess is he would be very reasonable on them right now. You can email him at ted@tktsales.com for prices. I'll attach a pic where I got one from him, still in the plastic pack.

I read an article last week on CNN where ,this is where the jobs are today, with great pay. You have an advantage in the fact that you live through those nasty winters, something that I could not do today, as I am ill-equiped mentally to do so. I lived in Alaska for 4 1/2 years as a kid and it was terrific, better than any place I ever lived, but being a protected kid and an adult are two different things. I admire your courage and wish you well. Unbelieveable anyone could live in a trailer in -40 degree weather. Good luck with your adventure.

 

[hilber]

You are much braver than me living in -40 degrees. I don't like +40 very much with having a spinal cord injury and all the problems that go with it, cold weather is bad to me. Good luck on your journey.

 

[goodguyzy]

The miles seem to go by really slow at 48mph, leave the CTIS off and air up to 50-60 manually. I did a 1000 mile recovery and yes your butt really hurts. Stop and walk about every 2-3 hours.

 

[BadMastard]

I'll add a couple of things. Your box is wired for 24v and 110. Mine had a converter in the box, which it looks like yours does too. If you put 110 energy saving bulbs in the ceiling, it barely touches the battery. I have a 40,000 btu diesel heater in mine, it will keep your toes toasty, and can be used to cook pop tarts (the pastry type, not britney spears). I would recommend that in a minute. Also, make a connector for 110v for your box. You'll see what I mean when you get it, it's the military style and is hard to get a gen to hook up.

I'd also recommend a second set of 2 12v batteries in the box. Can be used as a jump for your truck, and can run your accessories without killing your truck battery.

I have a 24v to 12v converter in the cab of the truck. Pyle PSWNV720 720 Watt 24V DC to 12V DC Power Converter 267-7340
Money well spent, provides steady 30 amps of power generally, up to 720. I put a 12v cig lighter on my dash wired to mine, runs gps and charges laptop/phones easily. I also put in a switch to turn it off when not in use.

For simplicity and probably cost, I'd go with military winterization kits. Remember your automatic is probably filled with 15w-30, you may want to switch to ATF, AND get a heater for Montana.

The seat in the A3 isn't bad for trips. Unless you're the passenger.

Carry caps for the wheel hub connection for the ctis with you. When they fail, sometimes it just doesn't work, sometimes it drains the tire flat, and sometimes it pushes gear oil into your tire. I think it's a 7/16's NPT cap, but you'll have to check. Carry 1/4 air line, 3/8's air line and 1/2" air line, about 10' of each. You have a plethora of lines that can go bad, and do with temp changes/vibration. Keep fittings for all of the above as well. T's, elbows and connectors, you can often use "gator-bite" type connectors to make life easier.

Keep a gallon of leak detection fluid. (Soapy water in a spray bottle). You're going to need it eventually. Check all your tires, CTIS plumbing and around the top of the compressor right away. You're going to have something leaking, and I'll bet you a dollar right now on that.

Check your fuel/water filter. Actually, all your filters should be replaced/checked. Here's a list of cat parts.
Oil- 1R1807
Fuel- 7E9763
Trans spin on (external)- 1R0713
Air- P520925

When you get your insurance see if you can get towing. Get unlimited mileage, it will pay for itself on the first tow, for your lifetime.

Check your generator bracket. Most of them are weak, and poorly designed. I think C and C has some new ones that will save you some pain later.

Keep a 1/2" breaker bar and a 2 inch extension with you. You'll need it to change the belts. Wheel nuts are 1 and 1/8, lug nuts are 1 and 1/2". See if you can find yourself a nice IR titanium impact wrench if you want to change your own tires.

The truck takes forever to get to operating temps, so a radiator cover might be in order, part of the winter kit.

Refill your ether start bottle, or keep a spare.

replace your windshield wipers now, they are usually bad, and you're going to be driving in snow. You'll need them. Some boat wipers work too.

Enjoy the heck out of the drive! if you're heater is working, you'll be singing it's praises. If not, you'll be cold. If it's raining, you'll be wet. The front window seals are usually bad, run a garden hose on them to check. Duct tape the bottom of the cab rear window before it gets wet. You can duct tape the front windows too.

Speed. The TM's say DON'T fun full throttle for long periods of time. Goodguys is right, 48 is more likely, tops is 52. Maybe 52.1. Probably 52.0.

If you're bucking a bit while driving in snow, hit the front wheel drive. I noticed more in sand, but if the back starts slipping, it tends to buck a bit.

Get a chain to lock the steering wheel. Pad the chain where it goes on the wheel.

Teflon tape. Lot's of telfon tape.

3 or 4 five gallon buckets with lids. For leaks, and seats. Box of shop towels. I keep tools and parts in the 5 gallon buckets to keep them organized. Get some 3/8", 7/16", 1/2" grade 8 fine thread nuts and bolts.

Lastly, have fun! If you get in trouble, drop an email on the site, one of us will help.

Geez, did I miss anything?

 

[Loco_Hosa]

My 1400 mile trip from Riverside, Ca then to Garberville, Ca (Off the 101) then to Tacoma Wa, sleeping in the truck, going like ****, in a truck that happily did 55.5 (Cruising speed was usually 45mph at night, and 50 during the day), it took 49 hours for the trip. My truck was terribly uncomfortable, and I slept in the truck. When I did get home 49 hours later, I literally fell asleep while eating dinner at the table.

40 hours is optimistic. Just saying.

The only other thing to share is that I hope you keep us updated on your progress and how the money is up there. My family wants me to head that way also, but I hate the cold.

 

[Brett09]

Jason, I can deliver it to you for free. It may get wet on the way and shrink down to an M1008.
Just kidding buddy nice truck. We'll see you next time you are down here.

 

[quickfarms]

Living in the trailer is the easy part.

Surveying in -40 weather is crazy.

I have surveyed in some cold weather back east but nothing that cold.

 

[jmoneysmithmas]

@BadMastard: You obviously have a LOT of experience, and I really appreciate the time you took to give me fantastic checklist (to add to other members recommendations and advice of course). I'm already feeling 200% more confident that I can properly prepare for the long haul. I'll be working on a master 'to-do' list and 'parts/equipment list' as my trip gets closer. I'll post around thanksgiving so members like yourself can review and add their $.02 or $0.22, or $22 if they want.

@Loco_Hosa: I've made that same drive before... except I wasn't in a MV. It's good to hear from someone who's taken a 1000+ mile trek in a deuce recently. I'll be sure to leave a few extra days in my schedule in case we get held-up by weather, 6 flat tires, or worse. As far as oil field work goes, just search google for "bakken oil field jobs", "north dakota oil jobs", or similar. Here's a couple links to help too:

Craigslist: north dakota all jobs classifieds - craigslist

Halliburton Oilfield Services: Oilfield Services | Halliburton - Solving Challenges. - Halliburton (I got word last month, they are going to be hiring 11,000 more employees very soon. That's right ELEVEN THOUSAND). Here's an article about it: Halliburton to hire 11,000, mostly for Bakken Shale play - Oil & Gas Financial Journal Most guys out there, if they can stick with it all year, can make well over $80,000... you just won't have much of a social life.

I currently work with about 10 guys that came from the oil fields, and all of them quit after 1 to 8 months of work. The main reason: too many hours, and away from family for too long. Most jobs are shift work (10 days on- 4 off, or 2 weeks and 2 weeks), but often you'll get asked to work a double (many circumstances over 30 days straight). Housing is very limited, and if you find housing, it's very expensive- $3000/mo for a small, old 3-bedroom farmhouse. A spot in a RV park for your trailer costs around $800/mo., and waiting lists are long. When a small farm town goes from 400 people to 1500 overnight, there are power, sewer, water supply, and housing shortages. Many large oil contractors are setting up 'man camps' (google search this too) for their workers.

@Everyone: Thanks again for all the great feedback. I'm absorbing as fast as I can, and keep it coming! I just got my first uship bid today ($9,030.00). I was tempted to ask if that was an overnight, air-drop price, complete with 2 bikini models, a giant red bow over the cab, and a mint on the seat. Nonetheless, the more knowledge and tips you guys share with me, the more I'm leaning towards driving it. There will be plenty of photos...

Also, another question to address: Alcohol evaporation system for air tanks in cold-weather. Any thoughts on running a system like this for sub-zero temps? The seller of the truck mentioned it to me, but doesn't have any personal experience with that sort of system, or if it's necessary/recommended. Any advice or direction would be appreciated... all i know is that there are 2 air tanks, one is a 'wet' tank... but in -40°, almost anything wet becomes frozen.

 

[jmoneysmithmas]

Living in the trailer is the easy part.

Surveying in -40 weather is crazy.

I have surveyed in some cold weather back east but nothing that cold.

I spent a year surveying on Alaska's north slope in Kuparuk and Prudhoe Bay... driven the James Dalton Highway numerous times too (see the tv show 'ice road truckers'). I remember one winter day in particular: My 'trick' of taping chem hand warmers to the batteries on the theodolite wasn't working, so I decided to check the thermometer on our survey truck/box van: -47° F. Wind gusts were up to 25mph, so... that put the temperature as low as -87° F. So we bagged it, and drove north to measure ice thickness 2 miles north of the shoreline in the Beaufort Sea (Arctic Ocean)... i remember, the ice was 6' thick. I attached some photos that were taken later in the winter... when we actually had SOME sunlight (appx 1pm). It was about -30 when these were taken, and only had about 5 mins before digital camera would freeze up.

 

[jmoneysmithmas]

Jason, I can deliver it to you for free. It may get wet on the way and shrink down to an M1008.
Just kidding buddy nice truck. We'll see you next time you are down here.

Hey Brett- if i do the roadtrip, you interested in coming along? Or- at least flying up for a week to help me install some winter parts? I'm thinking about renting a shop/storage unit for a month in January so I can work on it out of the elements. I think you'd enjoy Montana...

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

I live near Johnstown PA. Your route posted originally takes you about 20 min south of me. If you're having any problems within your first few hundred miles I'll give you my contact information and I'll do whatever I can to assist. You might not be wanting to stop and rest that soon but I can offer some space.

 

[BadMastard]

Nope, not a ton of experience, I just pay attention when everyone talks. Of course, some of that was my experience, so I paid attention when I talked. You'll do fine!

 

[TedG]

I have delt with several shipping companys when trying to move my M185A3 and have found the following: Shipping a deuce van truck can be expensive because of the overall height and it requires a lowboy type trailer ($$$$). A drop deck type trailer sits too high unless you remove the tires/rims and set is down on blocks. Good luck with you transport and Go Cats (unless you are a Griz fan)!