• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M127A1C/ M197A1 Camper conversion

GHILL55

New member
47
1
0
Location
Kalispell, Mt
I recently purchased a M127a1c trailer and M197a1 dolly from the great guys down at the Idaho Motor Pool . I had just purchased my 1995 M35A3 in Boise and needed a trailer to pull home (450mi). (should have bought a M109 while I was there and have had them deck load it on the flatbed - ah hindsight!).

Once I got it home and finished with the truck upgrades and paint I tackled the trailer. Pulled the bed, ground the rust off, primed & painted, re-wired both the 12v & 24v systems (16/4 outdoor rated cables (2) for 24v system and 16/3 outdoor rated cable for the marker and 12v systems) and removed the landing gear and spare tire carrier. (spare to be mounted on back of trailer using 12v winch, swing arm and tire basket. the whole underneath area that can get storage boxes will get them along w/ a 200 gal fuel tank and transfer system).

I then installed the new insulated floor ( see post pg? 32 of show your trailers). The sub floor is 3/8 cdx plywood - stained with watco dark oak and sealed with 3 coats of Thompson's Water Seal. This was followed up by using 2x3 firing for joists and filled the gaps with 1" rigid foam, R5, then topped w/ 1/2" poly foam boards w/ foil top. The whole thing was capped by 3/4" cdx plywood with the outside sill plate pre-screwed to the decking before it was laid down. I left an access hole up front to get to the main wiring harness and air brake connections.

All said and done there is a 3/16" gap between the deck and outer trailer frame, to be recessed shimmed w/ 3/16" plexiglass shims and black caulk - will provide excellent drip rail and support. (before you ask - Im only using the plexi because i have a bunch of scrap out in the shop).

Tomorrow I'll set up the framing and will sheet the outside w/ 3/8"cdx covered by builders wrap and t-111 paneling stained dark oak. The roof will probably be shingles over 2 off set layers of 3/8"cdx with builders felt for a sandwiched core.

Enough for now, Ill post updates as it progresses.
 

Attachments

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
Looks good but I have to ask, what is to be gained by eliminating the landing gear?
 

319

Lieutenant
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,350
58
48
Location
Michigan
Sounds like an ambitious project. The combo looks good behind the M35A3.
Why 16 gauge wiring?, the original should have been 12 or 14 gauge.
Keep the photos coming.
 

GHILL55

New member
47
1
0
Location
Kalispell, Mt
I pulled the landing gear because I wanted the extra storage space for tents, propane tanks, chain saw, etc. - Never can have enough storage. And this way no one can swipe my dolly.
As for the wiring, I did my voltage calcs for power consumption and line voltage loss (resistance) and 16ga is well within specs - and I got a good deal on it at Home Depot.
Speaking of Home Depot, I drive the beast up there Sat night for more framing materials and the cashier gave me 20% off because it was slow and she liked my truck! I'm definitely driving it to the store more often.
Working on trailer update - post soon
 

GHILL55

New member
47
1
0
Location
Kalispell, Mt
10-10-11 camper build update.

I must be getting a lot slower in my old age, I only got half off my wknd work done.
Finished framing 2 exterior wall sections and the interior rear bunk room divider wall. Put up framed walls (solo), then my son came home and installed the to cap and I helped him put the bottom course of sheeting on. I put in 10hrs & my son logged 4 1/2 hrs. We stopped at dark and tarped the whole shebang against the coming week of rain.

Here are the updated pics.
 

Attachments

rogersn67

New member
84
6
0
Location
Bryn Mawr, Pa
Hey Ghill55, have you thought about maybe putting solar panels on the roof.... You can get the ceels your self and build the panels. It can be set up to keep the whole system charged, and it really would not cost all that much.
Awesome project you have going! Glad you started a build thread, I look forward to seeing it come together!
Roger
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
Nice!! what what are the dimensions on the trailer? will you be using it for camping? will it be self contained? do you have a pic of the floor plan?
:grd:
 

GHILL55

New member
47
1
0
Location
Kalispell, Mt
I don't have a floor plan scan'd. When finished the dimensions will be:

94" HT x 93" W x 28' 2 1/2" L w/ a deck HT of 5'1" total HT=12' 10"

I will be installing a full array of solar panels on the top center section and yes the camper is fully self contained "mountain camper"

All the details, layouts and goodies are too long to list. Will post pics as the project progresses.

I'm fighting time and money, it'll start snowing around here very, very soon.
 

Danger Ranger

New member
2,253
23
0
Location
Roland, IA
IMHO, I would not use shingles. I think I would use tin or something to keep the snow off, plus, youll want gutters or something then, right?

Looking great, I love the project.
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
I'm fighting time and money, it'll start snowing around here very, very soon.


I know what you mean! with my conversion,i put everything on the back burner and spent all my time and money on it and still going.
In the end,it will all be worth it!
 
I dont think you will like the results of a single axle dolly without landing gear on the trailer. dont put anything you want to keep between the front of the trailer and the dolly. you may want to chock the front of the dolly wheels to keep bad things from happening. just my thoughts.
 

jtron79

Member
165
2
18
Location
Eugene, Or
take it from experience the trailer will need some sort of leveling mechanism, also arn't you worried about servicing your 5th wheel plate and maintaining it?
 

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

Chaplain
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
18,534
5,801
113
Location
San Angelo, Tom Green County, Texas USA
I dont think you will like the results of a single axle dolly without landing gear on the trailer. dont put anything you want to keep between the front of the trailer and the dolly. you may want to chock the front of the dolly wheels to keep bad things from happening. just my thoughts.
This is a VERY GOOD thought concering SAFETY.

In commercial ops, you NEVER see a Pup-Trailer parked with the Dolly engaged. they ALWAYS drop the rear Trailer off the Dolly, then pull up just a short distance, nice and STRAIGHT, and drop the Dolly off the Pintle., then they drive off with the lead-Trailer and Tractor.

When reconnecting, they reverse the process.... Back the lead-Trailer up to the Dolly and connect Lunnette to Pintle, then back the Dolly under the rear-Trailer and engage the Fifth-Wheel and Kingpin.

The point is: NEVER leave the Dolly in a postition that GRAVITY will work its wonders and "flip" the Dolly forward and it's tongue UP in a rather VIOLENT and DAMAGING fashion. If attempted, remember to STAND CLEAR at ALL TIMES !


take it from experience the trailer will need some sort of leveling mechanism, also arn't you worried about servicing your 5th wheel plate and maintaining it?
This question also came to my itty-bitty-brain..... Jus' - a - wunnerin'...... :confused:
 

Dave08

Member
167
6
18
Location
Titusville Florida
Watching the entire build; I am planning a conversion of the M109A3 Van Box to a camper in the future. However, a twist will be putting the van box on a M720 Dolly. Should be interesting and your build will give me a lot of ideas. Thanks for the info on Ranchers Supply. I am still int he market for the dolly. Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming!
Dave08
 

SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,359
3,356
113
Location
Lexington, South Carolina
Dave08,

While the M720 dolly is nice, also be on the lookout for an M832 dolly. 720 is rated at 3.5 tons, 832 is rated at 5.5 tons, they also use different sized tires if I remember correctly - I know the 832 uses 900 x 20's. See my sig line.
 

GHILL55

New member
47
1
0
Location
Kalispell, Mt
Thanks to all on the advice about the landing gear removal and safety concerns. I consider my setup to be the "almost" the same as a turntable trailer. For servicing the dolly / trailer plate interface I have 2 - 20 ton jacks (pneumatic) for that job. I plan on building a steel shield a head of the storage boxes to protect them. My main focus is to maximize storage and thus equipment carrying capacity. I do have STRONG concerns about the dolly release lever and potential failure and or vandalism. I really wished I had used the 11 ton ammunition trailer the M???. Turntable trailer with a lower deck height and built in storage bays under the build. This is just what was available on my way home from picking up my M35A3 in Boise.
 

quickfarms

Well-known member
3,495
25
48
Location
Orange Junction, CA
On a turntable trailer the turntable does not pivot like the fifth wheel does, it only rotates on the king pin and the drawbar pivots up and down.

When you uncouple a pup you always lower the landing gear before unlocking the pintle hook.

By removing the landing gear you have created a very dangerous situation.

You will probably find that you are pulling out the dolly and using the landing gear to level the trailer.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks