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Replacing/Upgrading troop seats in the Deuce

CARNAC

The Envelope Please.
Supporting Vendor
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A full set of fiberglass racks for a deuce can be had for 250 in good shape.

I wouldn't do anything but wood or fiberglass. Either too heavy, too flimsy, too..... whatever. The price you'll put into making it up will be more than paying for a set of fiberglass racks.
 

pctrans

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Bradenton, FL
Got 2 nice sets of fiberglas, including headboard w/staves holders.....and I'm not that far from you!
 

emmado22

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Mid Hudson Valley NY
Wood racks, and I dont care what wood they are made out of, weight a ton. Sideboards by definition are a bulky PITA item to have to make/deal with. Fiberglass is the only way to go in my opinion, unless youre going for a year type "correct" build... Meaning fiberglass racks on a Vietnam deuce your going to display would be wrong.
 

mckeeranger

Member
779
4
18
Location
Eastern Kentucky
I went with the 5/4 decking, ripped in half and bull nosed (rounded) the edges.

It has it's good points and it's bad points. If I didn't need them done quickly at the time, I would have gone with fiberglass. If I ever do it again, I will go with fiberglass or hardwood.

Good: It's cheap, plentiful, easy to work with, and looks almost like the original wood, when done right.

Bad: Modern treated lumber has to dry out before it will hold paint, it will twist into a pretzel while you wait for it to dry out, and it eats steel.

You have to use coated, or stainless steel bolts, and you should paint the uprights where the wood makes contact. I didn't, and I don't know what the long term effect will be on the steel uprights, but I know it's not going to be good. I'll probably take it apart and paint the uprights when I paint the slats.

It's also thicker than original, so you have to plane it down to fit into the uprights on the headboard.

I'm going to paint our this winter, I think they've dried out enough.

Edit: On the second pic, you can see where one of the slats to the left of the window opening warped after only about a week.
 

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renovate7

Member
422
7
16
Location
Florida
If your going to use pressure treated, for anything that's considered a finished item, you need to let it properly air dry first. This will minimize any warping and let it shrink as much as it will. . Stack your boards in a shady area with stringers in between so they don't touch each other. Let them air dry this way for a week or two, or three. You can then make what ever you want from them and they should be stable, and take paint much better.
 

Hoxman

New member
46
0
0
Location
Merritt Island, FL
What are you looking to get for the set? Is it just benches and back rests or front panel as well? Why are you switching out to Poplar from the fiberglass?
Thanks!!
 

Hoxman

New member
46
0
0
Location
Merritt Island, FL
I just got in my order from Stephan wood products... I got all new bench seats, back rests, bow staves, metal bows and rear rack boards.... They are definitely cool... A little weird though, they have some type of coating or thick paint on the outside and two of the boards have scratches on them about 4-6 inches long, leaving some sharp fibers exposed which don't feel too wonderful on your hands (or other parts)...
It's almost like they are extruded with a coating... looks awesome though!! I will post pics this week!! Thanks for all your input! Next, I need to hit a rally and meet you all!
 

jasonjc

Well-known member
5,326
289
83
Location
Gravette Ar.
I went with the 5/4 decking, ripped in half and bull nosed (rounded) the edges.

It has it's good points and it's bad points. If I didn't need them done quickly at the time, I would have gone with fiberglass. If I ever do it again, I will go with fiberglass or hardwood.

Good: It's cheap, plentiful, easy to work with, and looks almost like the original wood, when done right.

Bad: Modern treated lumber has to dry out before it will hold paint, it will twist into a pretzel while you wait for it to dry out, and it eats steel.

You have to use coated, or stainless steel bolts, and you should paint the uprights where the wood makes contact. I didn't, and I don't know what the long term effect will be on the steel uprights, but I know it's not going to be good. I'll probably take it apart and paint the uprights when I paint the slats.

It's also thicker than original, so you have to plane it down to fit into the uprights on the headboard.

I'm going to paint our this winter, I think they've dried out enough.

Edit: On the second pic, you can see where one of the slats to the left of the window opening warped after only about a week.
Thank's for this post. I've been thinking of doing the same. Now that I see that it works and looks good I have one MORE project to do now.
 

Hoxman

New member
46
0
0
Location
Merritt Island, FL
The whole package with shipping was just over 1200 bucks.
I don't recall the price for just the seats and rack. They are very straightforward to work with. Great products!
 
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