Deuce leaning noticably to right without spare?

[1 Patriot-of-many]

I'm finally done replacing all the dogbones with new ones, replacing brake line, remounted tires, fixed a small air leak from one of the ctis hoses, then notice the truck is leaning noticably to the right.

Measuring between the drivers side tire and fender I get about 9 inches, on the passenger side I get 7 5/8".

Please tell me it's because the spare tire is not on the truck? Would that 400 pounds make that much diference?

 

[porkysplace]

Its not the tire.

 

[DieselBob]

On a good level surface measure from the ground to the bottom of the frame rail. This will let you know if you have a suspension problem or body mount/panel alignment problem.

 

[KsM715]

Its not the spare. I had .98 tons (according to the scrap yard), thats just shy of 2000lbs in the bed of my bobber and it didnt even squat half an inch.

 

[73m819]

which side did you take the u-bolts loose when you did the top touque rod, were these tightened back up to touque with everything back in the correct place

 

[dikwks]

Have you driven it since you jacked it up?

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

which side did you take the u-bolts loose when you did the top touque rod, were these tightened back up to touque with everything back in the correct place

Drivers side, I took the two u-bolts off, 4 nuts, the top with the lifting eye. If I screwed that up somehow it would be sitting low on the drivers side instead of the passenger side, correct?

I didn't have to do anything else to take the lifting eye off did I?

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Have you driven it since you jacked it up?

No. Is it the tension from the torque rods/having to move the axles into place for the rods to go in? that will settle into place after driving? hmmm I think you might be onto something there...doooh. The parking brake has been on all that time too.

 

[hndrsonj]

Anytime you mess with the suspension, you have to drive it.

 

[73m819]

Drivers side, I took the two u-bolts off, 4 nuts, the top with the lifting eye. If I screwed that up somehow it would be sitting low on the drivers side instead of the passenger side, correct?

I didn't have to do anything else to take the lifting eye off did I?

Not necessarily, could be setting HI on the drivers side, did you have truck weight on the springs when you touqued the u-bolts

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

I don't think so. I had the middle axle on jack stands,I'm pretty sure I had a jack underneath between the two dogbones cause I was scared when I took the ubolts off the leaf spring would lift off the saddle. The leaf spring is flat on the saddle where it's supposed to be. Just drove it a couple miles, seems to have improved but I'm parked on dirt, when I put her away later I can get a more definitive picture of the situation. Ran good, didn't notice any difference from the last time I had it on the road. She does 52 by the speedo at about 2700 rpm. There's a bolt under the accelerator, I guess that's the governor LOL

Is there something I'm missing here? As long as the leafspring is flat against the saddle it should be right? Or does the mechanism in the saddle have something to do with the way it will sit? What is that mechanism in the saddle for? I didn't open that or touch it when I took the ubolts on and off.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Wow this is getting never ending. Is it normal for the two axles/tires to not be completely parallel with each other? My middle axle is facing to the left a bit, not exactly straight and the upper torque rod rubber is noticeably flexing a bit.Almost like the torque rods are different lengths.....
I also have apparently some axle fluid leaking on the drivers side middle axle now... when it rains it pours.

 

[RealCavDog]

Well, if the fluid is leaking from the axle shaft flange in the center of the hub, you may want to read my thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=75997,, and check the same title on M35A3 website ! Then follow the repairs that are spelled out by a few of the guys, and follow the recommendations on parts ordering from McMaster Carr !

Last thing you want to do is destroy those high dollar CTIS compatible wheel bearings !

M35A3 Gear Lube/CTIS Rear Axle Leak

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Well, if the fluid is leaking from the axle shaft flange in the center of the hub, you may want to read my thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=75997,, and check the same title on M35A3 website ! Then follow the repairs that are spelled out by a few of the guys, and follow the recommendations on parts ordering from McMaster Carr !

Last thing you want to do is destroy those high dollar CTIS compatible wheel bearings !

M35A3 Gear Lube/CTIS Rear Axle Leak

Ah..... I was wondering why the two bolts holding the inner part of the rock shield on seemed to have some sealant on them...... I bet I pull them off put some sealant on then thread them back on problem goes away with the wetness...... Tm's aren't as thorough as people like to lecture. I see nothing about putting sealant on those bolts.

Still wondering however how much play should the axles have, are they always perfectly parallel or is there that much play it's noticeable they aren't straight with each other?

 

[RealCavDog]

Ah..... I was wondering why the two bolts holding the inner part of the rock shield on seemed to have some sealant on them...... I bet I pull them off put some sealant on then thread them back on problem goes away with the wetness...... Tm's aren't as thorough as people like to lecture. I see nothing about putting sealant on those bolts.

Still wondering however how much play should the axles have, are they always perfectly parallel or is there that much play it's noticeable they aren't straight with each other?

I am afraid you may not realize that unlike a standard wet lube type axle, there is a seperation between the third member and the hub. There is a seal . . . and several o-rings and quad seals that keep the gear lube out of the hub, and by so doing, out of the CTIS system. All Rockwells use the seal system, but our A3's use the extra o-rings and quads to allow the hub to hold air pressure and feed the CTIS system !

The hub and wheel bearings are heavy greased, and if you just seal up the hub and allow the gear lube to wash out the grease, those VERY expensive wheel bearings that have the notches in them to allow air flow will be destroyed, or at least that is my understanding !

Any corrections from the more experienced members, PLEASE JUMP IN !

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

I am afraid you may not realize that unlike a standard wet lube type axle, there is a seperation between the third member and the hub. There is a seal . . . and several o-rings and quad seals that keep the gear lube out of the hub, and by so doing, out of the CTIS system. All Rockwells use the seal system, but our A3's use the extra o-rings and quads to allow the hub to hold air pressure and feed the CTIS system !

The hub and wheel bearings are heavy greased, and if you just seal up the hub and allow the gear lube to wash out the grease, those VERY expensive wheel bearings that have the notches in them to allow air flow will be destroyed, or at least that is my understanding !

Any corrections from the more experienced members, PLEASE JUMP IN !

Well I'm unclear here, it's not coming out the air/ctis like yours, around the flange is slightly wet. In one of the threads you pointed to it was indicated it can get around the bolts? Seems very strange that I removed the two bolts that hold the rock shield on and put them back on and suddenly it's wet now.
I suppose I should add some pictures as I certainly don't know the terminology on some of this stuff. I appreciate your help.

 

[RealCavDog]

Well I'm unclear here, it's not coming out the air/ctis like yours, around the flange is slightly wet. In one of the threads you pointed to it was indicated it can get around the bolts? Seems very strange that I removed the two bolts that hold the rock shield on and put them back on and suddenly it's wet now.
I suppose I should add some pictures as I certainly don't know the terminology on some of this stuff. I appreciate your help.

Mine did not make it to the CTIS, it was only leaking around the 8- bolt axle flange. The CTIS clued me in to the fact that a sensor detected an air pressure holding issue ! How awesome that it works that good to give me a heads up that an internal air pressure variance was occuring ! It started flashing flat a few days before the flange leaked, but no flat tire, so the only conclusion I can come to is that when the o-rings or quad seals started leaking air, it sent the signal before enough lube got in to do any damage ! Once the leak got bad enough to see, I also saw the tire pressure drop, so my CTIS system REALLY works !

The other related and helpful post and thread that linked to me had the lube in the valve issue, I just got lucky and caught it QUICK, and pulled it apart before it contaminated the air system.

Not to hijack your leaning issue thread, just noted you may have another inexpensive but heavy project ahead of you !

 

[gimpyrobb]

You guys are a riot!

So, you mentioned that you measured fender clearance, but now are talking about the dual setup in the rear. Are you wondering about the rear or the front? My pass side spring pack sags more than the driver. Pretty easy to measure that between the bump stop and the frame.

Are you worried about the front or rear?

 

[doghead]

Did you measure it before the recent work? Are you sure this is a new issue?

I would have installed and tightened the tapered dog bone ends, with the truck on the ground and level to eliminate any chance of unneeded strain on the new rubber ends.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Mine did not make it to the CTIS, it was only leaking around the 8- bolt axle flange. The CTIS clued me in to the fact that a sensor detected an air pressure holding issue ! How awesome that it works that good to give me a heads up that an internal air pressure variance was occuring ! It started flashing flat a few days before the flange leaked, but no flat tire, so the only conclusion I can come to is that when the o-rings or quad seals started leaking air, it sent the signal before enough lube got in to do any damage ! Once the leak got bad enough to see, I also saw the tire pressure drop, so my CTIS system REALLY works !

The other related and helpful post and thread that linked to me had the lube in the valve issue, I just got lucky and caught it QUICK, and pulled it apart before it contaminated the air system.

Not to hijack your leaning issue thread, just noted you may have another inexpensive but heavy project ahead of you !

No man, don't get me wrong, I certainly appreciate your input. I thought you had the lube coming out the ctis tube.... Sounds like we have the same problem then, very wierd it just happened now though. Guess this hub is coming off to see what the deal is! Thank you.