NTC 400 Mo Power

[Bighurt]

The air compressor already draws air from the turbo too.

Had a few hrs to spare Thursday night and decided to get the hood put on correctly and see what parts I need to do my air compressor over.

Army did mine already as well...

Oh bother now I need to find something else to get more air faster. I did find a loose hose clamp.

Local brake place has all the stuff to recharge my air dryer, for $59. Probably going to do that this week.

BTW the hood is a big pain in the neck!

 

[cornrichard]

What is your issue with air, Bighurt? I am using my 915a1 every day right now and only very rarely have low air issues. I will time a couple of my trucks from empty tanks to full if it will help you. Let me know.

 

[Bighurt]

I have leaks which I'm tracking down slowly.

But it takes a good 10 minutes to fill my air supply from zero. My belts aren't tight but they aren't loose either.

 

[73m819]

The 915 I drove for Ziggl took for ever to get air pressure up from 0, if I left it at idle.

 

[R Racing]

BigHurt. The air compressor is gear driven from the crank and that shaft drives other things like fan and water pump. Check your air governer out because it should air up faster than that . your governer could have a bad O ring or some corosion in it keeping the compressor from pumping efficently.the governer controls loading and unloading of the air compressor.

 

[Bighurt]

Alright I'm going to follow paragraph 3-85 in 34-2 and adjust with 3-84 and see if that helps. Couldn't hurt...

 

[cornrichard]

If I just start a cold truck with no air and walk away it takes 10 min to get to full pressure. If I run it at 1500 rpm it will pump up in 5. Once you are on the road with the turbo helping I never have any problems with low air. I think a 5 or 10 min warm up on a cold truck is a good idea. A basic pre trip should take about that much time anyway.

 

[eldgenb]

Well I finally got a chance to rebuild the fan clutch assembly and it was not as bad as I had thought. The M920( I assume the 916 is the same, the 915's I have seen have a normally closed clutch so a different rebuild kit) has a EVANS FC200017 Fan clutch, I have confirmed this with other members who have M920's and so far have all been the same. The rebuild kit for that is FC21024 and can be purchased through a company called Comfort Aire phone # 616-454-2200. Special thanks to SS member R racing for sharing this info with me from his clutch since it still had manufacturer stickers on it for the lead. Pretty straight forward, the drum spring is not under much pressure so no special bolts are needed like the -34 says. Rebuild kit was $249 and is good for 250k miles before recommended service, comes with a new end cap assembly as well, mine was shot and would not hold air, engage and gave me trouble trying to get it apart, I hope this helps someone else.

 

[JamPony727]

6 full turns will give WAY more than 20-25 HP!!! 1/4 turn out will give 20 or so HP at rated RPM. In to decrease, out to increase.

How much will 6 turns put out ? Just curios

 

[eldgenb]

How much will 6 turns put out ? Just curios

don't have a dyno but I would guess about 75 hp

 

[M813A1]

subscribed

 

[bigcamcummins]

Anybody have a baseline for a big cam 400? Like how many turns the stock aneroid screw is set at, same thing with the throttle shaft. Also, does anybody know if the buttons are supposed to have a hole in the middle of them? I have a #15 botton, and It looks like it has a hole in the middle, but I cant see through it or blow through it. Thanks guys. I have an old frightliner log truck that has been turned up considerably and I would like to try and tame it down a bit.

 

[jimk]

Pic-27 and 22 buttons. Very small shallow depressions in center of each hole.

I put a N16 turbo on a stock nat aspirated no intercooler NHC250 (#27 button). Made 15 psi @2100 with rather small increase in power. Changed to #20 button. Noticeable increase in power with boost to 18-19psi.

If you got a lot of boost (36psi?) you'll probably see it drop as you cut back the fuel.

Oh, my never used #22 button got rusty inside the plastic bag. Suggest you oil your spares. Jim

 

[bigcamcummins]

My truck belches black smoke like no other, puffs white horribly while warming up, pegs my boost gauge over 30, so I don't really know how much it has. I pull the hills at 1900 and typically the egt's are 900, but can go higher if I start lugging lower than 1600. I do my best never to let it go over 900. I kinda just want to start over with stock settings and work from there.

 

[simp5782]

Found this that was written up by Pittsburgh power

Maybe it will be easy enough to read with its 70+ pages

 

[simp5782]

Bump with some information from the injector book.

Stock injector on a Big cam I is 3054071 with a stroke/mm3 of 191/193. The same as the injector for a big cam iii part # 3047973



Hot injectors for stepping up would be (lowest to highest)
#3054235
#3047980
#3047984/3054233
#3054236

 

[WillWagner]

Careful, see the number in the fourth column? That is the top stop setting. If you put an injector in an engine with the wrong TS/cam you will damage things or have a giant smoke issue. These things aren't rocket science, but if you use the wrong parts mixed together, you WILL have issues. It does take experience and knowledge to make things correct and to know when things are wrong. I do not know it all, every day is a learning experience, even now after 30 years with the engine manufacturer. If someone tells you they know it all, they are full of shiet. To do mods to these pigs you need to know the intricacies of the different engines, all the changes were done mainly due to emissions, but some to improve issues that reared their heads after the emission change engines were released. How many cams do you think I have changed due to built in issues and people mixing and matching things?

Guess it boils down to, it is your stuff, you can do what you want with it, just be careful, things are expensive.