Rough idle fix

[chicagodiesel]

Just thought I'd post some info on my efforts:

Got the truck with plenty of problems and ran like crap. Meaning not just vibrating but a solid shudder to the engine. Being a newbie to the 6.2 was willing and have done everything.

Started with new belts, aligned accessories, and harmonic balancer. I moved on to pulling and cleaning injectors, changing glow plugs, and lift pump. Next was messing around with timing and installing a cold air intake. All of these made significant improvements to the engine but the shudder was still there.

Yesterday I replaced the stock fuel filter base with wix 4770 and spin on filter. Holy cow if it isn't a new truck. Shudder is gone, power is way up, and my fuel efficiency on a 120 mile drive tonight was about 24 mpg. I had some problems with an air lock and a mysterious stalling. Seems my fuel shut off solenoid connection decided to go bad at the same time as the replacement of the fuel filter and that took a second and some battery charging to figure out.

I'll post pics of the mod tomorrow. If you have a rough idle after warm up, fastly consider this mod that cost about 40 with parts from HD and fleet filter. Good luck.

 

[Rustygears]

Those old Chevys have a POS electrical system. I have a 82 k10 and the electrical system is its Achilles heel. I wound up re-wiring the battery/charging system with 1/0 cable. Next will be the engine control.

 

[wired1000]

Glad to hear you had some luck with that! Congratulations!

 

[chicagodiesel]

Here are some pics. I did things a bit different than what I've seen posted. I got the six 4770 base as stated. After removing the stock base I measured out the three holes on it using one of the ones already present.

I used three 3" 3/8 course thread bolts and 9 nuts. I drilled holes in the firewall then bored them out to fit the bolts. Slipped them in from behind the firewall towards the front of the truck. I then slipped two nuts on each bolt using one to tighten to the firewall. Next I slipped on the base and backed the other nuts out to seat it close to the end of the bolts...enough to get one more nut on each and then tightened them down. This allowed easy clearance of the electrical work underneath.

 

[idM1028]

I know a lot of guys like the spin-on setup, but did you consider just changing the fuel filter? Like $15 at any parts store. Biggest PITA is bleeding it. No need to reinvent the wheel.

 

[chicagodiesel]

Changed it multiple times...I hooked up a clear hose to the return line on the IP and was getting a lot of air bubbles and had checked all lines for leakage.

After changing the base to the spin on air bubbles are gone. Believe me, I looked into it and wasn't exactly thrilled about doing it. Anything I don't have to do to this truck has become a sacred thing.

 

[idM1028]

Hey, whatever works for ya. My understanding is that guys do the spin-on mod because the stock filter bases can crack and leak. If this ever happens to me, spin-on here we come! $40 vs. trying to track down a stock filter base and whatever the price happens to be. Seems pretty obvious to me...

 

[chicagodiesel]

They can also suck air without you knowing that there's a leak.

 

[wired1000]

Just to verify, this is the one? Wix 24770 & Napa 4770 Base: FleetFilter Secure Online Store

I've got a rough idle happening and this could definitely be the problem. It looks like you replaced your fuel lines too... how much did you need, approximately? And thanks in advance for saving me a trip to measure it myself

 

[chicagodiesel]

That's the one. Just get 2 feet of both 1/4 and 3/8 to be safe. Home Depot had all the brass fittings needed. The housing comes with plugs for the unused side but you need an obscenely large allen wrench to tighten them. I just bought 1/2 brass plugs at the HD as well. Make sure to get the yellow teflon tape as its rated for contact with fuel. Good luck.

 

[Blue2actual]

For guys that do the spin on mod, you can get an electric fuel pump and mount it to the frame rail just in front of the firewall and you will never have to bleed the system again. I paid 45$ at Advance Auto for a 7 psi fuel pump and it has been a god send over the past 9 months. It also has plenty of pressure to run WMO. Glad to see you got your rig running how you want it!

 

[MuleMac01]

mines doing the same thing a little only when it's in drive... at a stop


but at idle it seems ok i think it's an injector issue with mine the injectors have 71k miles on em

 

[wired1000]

For guys that do the spin on mod, you can get an electric fuel pump and mount it to the frame rail just in front of the firewall and you will never have to bleed the system again.

Blue2actual... do you have pics of where/how you mounted your electric fuel pump? I am planning to install one tomorrow. I've seen some others install it closer to the tank as well.

 

[Cucvnut]

I mounted mine on the frame rail right under the cab and just use rubber hose to connect it to the metal fuel lines.

 

[Blue2actual]

Blue2actual... do you have pics of where/how you mounted your electric fuel pump? I am planning to install one tomorrow. I've seen some others install it closer to the tank as well.

Wired- hope this link works. I'm on my phone (just moved to CO so i don't have my Internet set up yet. Im not sure what # post is mine but i know that it is in this thread. Good luck on your project!

Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite - View Single Post - 6.2 fuel pump...?

 

[wired1000]

FYI, after a wasted trip to Autozone and OReilly's, looking for a Wix 24770 filter, I have determined thanks to internet research that this type of filter does not exist. Anyone planning to use this filter base, check this post I found on google. This user kindly made a spreadsheet of the filters that will fit on that base, prices, water drain and other characteristics. Scroll down a bit to find it.

http://www.rocketcityrockcrawlers.com/memberstuff/al/PPF_2008-02-25.pdf

boy was that confusing...

 

[Blue2actual]

Wired-here's the write up that i used. It is a GREAT and accurate write up! Good luck!

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/1079452-post.html

 

[wired1000]

Successful spin-on filter installation! I took some videos, so once I get it edited a bit I'll post that to youtube and here as well. Thanks chicagodiesel for detailing this setup. It's working wonderfully already for me.

A couple hints I picked up along the way. Make sure, if you use paste-like thread sealant, that you wait for it to cure (overnight at least). Otherwise you'll have diesel spraying all over the engine bay. Ask me how I know!!

You can access the rubber fuel hose from the filter to the IP by reaching behind the intake manifold on the drivers side. It's pretty awkward (I was sitting indian-style on the engine, basically... not comfy!) but it's surprisingly easy to get your hand in there. Easier than just removing the intake manifold? I dunno... once I get around to doing that I'll tell you.

If you're taking off the firewall cover (where the windshield washer nozzles are) you may as well take this opportunity to grease up your windshield wiper gear. I sprayed mine down with aerosol lithium grease and THANK F-ING GOD... I really hate squeeky noises and whenever it rained, my wipers just about drove me nuts...

That's all I can think of for now... thanks again for this tip!