Steel Brake Lines

[dutchguy]

After digging through the forum for a while, I still have a question:
As part of brake system maintenance, has anyone just replaced all of the steel brake lines, rather than wait for one to fail? I've found info on using stainless steel "generic" replacement line, is that the best way to do this?

 

[maddawg308]

Stainless steel brakes lines are EXCELLENT. But they do cost a lot. If you do make the replacement, it will be the last time you do. I did it on my old M725 ambulance and they looked and worked great.

 

[maddawg308]

I used these guys and the quality was great. Dropped right in without any problems.

Classic Tube, Preformed Tubing

 

[dmetalmiki]

changed mine

Used cunifer/kunifer? ( soz don't know exact spelling) copper alloy..way cheaper ..lasts 1000 years. Iuse it on all my cars n' trucks.

 

[Mike O.]

Maddawg...I used them for SS brake lines on a Dodge D350 I had. They were the ONLY place that had prebent stainless lines. If you are careful and remove the existing steel lines without bending, they can use them as a template. The cool this is that they then have it as a pattern forever.

Did they already have a Deuce pattern for an A2?

 

[Digger09]

Pre bent a2 lines would be awesome. Just blew a brake line on the way home in the deuce and if you havent expierenced that yet believe me you dont want to. I plan on changing them all out now. They looked fine on the outside so I guess you just never know.

 

[juddspaintballs]

I'll probably bend up my own for my bobber. Since it's already stripped down to frame, I've got plenty of room to figure out what needs bent where.

 

[plym49]

Used cunifer/kunifer? ( soz don't know exact spelling) copper alloy..way cheaper ..lasts 1000 years. Iuse it on all my cars n' trucks.

An interesting item that I believe to be true but perhaps someone can confirm:

In the UK, copper brake lines are permitted (because copper gives and single-flare conenctions are permitted) and steel lines are not (because they can rust).

In the US, steel lines are permitted (because they are stronger and permit the double-flares required by law) and copper is outlawed (because it is soft, easily work haredens and cannot accept a double flare).

We are indeed all the same. Only different.

 

[ODdave]

IIRC, stainless is recomended to have a 37* flare insted of a 45* because it is harder and stands a beter chance of cracking @ the flare.

 

[NDT]

After digging through the forum for a while, I still have a question:
As part of brake system maintenance, has anyone just replaced all of the steel brake lines, rather than wait for one to fail? I've found info on using stainless steel "generic" replacement line, is that the best way to do this?

I re-plumbed by M275A2 (tractor deuce) using the pre-made steel lines from the auto parts store. That was in 1995 and I have not had to touch the brakes since (using silicone fluid).

 

[plym49]

The regular old steel tubing available at any parts store is the hot ticket, IMHO. Unless you drive your Deuce through brine and acid baths, these coated steel lines will last as long as the originals did. They are inexpensive and easy to form and flare. The one tool you need for sure is a decent double flaring tool. If you want, add a good quality tubing bender. Remember that you do not saw the tubing ever, beause that can get chips into the lines. Use a tubing cutter that rolls around and slices.

 

[Nonotagain]

There is copper/nickel alloy tubing available which is used by most European car manufacturers.
Superior to the mild steel lines sold in the US.
No issues bending or flaring using common tubing tools.

 

[clinto]

I would love to be able to buy pre-bent steel lines for my deuce(s).

 

[gringeltaube]

The regular old steel tubing ........

to all!

I tried stainless once: not so easy to get the flares seated tight & leakproof in the original brass eye- and T-fittings; always had to torque those connections to the very limit, close before stripping threads!

G.

 

[ODdave]

to all!

I tried stainless once: not so easy to get the flares seated tight & leakproof in the original brass eye- and T-fittings; always had to torque those connections to the very limit, close before stripping threads!

G.

Mabye this is where the 37* comes in to play

 

[Katahdin]

I re-plumbed by M275A2 (tractor deuce) using the pre-made steel lines from the auto parts store. That was in 1995 and I have not had to touch the brakes since (using silicone fluid).

I did the same last year, but steel brake lines won't last as long in the north due to salt and other corrosive chemicals put on the roads to melt ice. Check out this fuel tank crossmember I replaced last year on my 93' Yukon. You guys who live down south suck!

 

[plym49]

I did the same last year, but steel brake lines won't last as long in the north due to salt and other corrosive chemicals put on the roads to melt ice. Check out this fuel tank crossmember I replaced last year on my 93' Yukon. You guys who live down south suck!

Brake lines - steel ones - are not produced out of the same alloy or coated the same as a that bracket. I know, it was a fuel tank bracket, but hey, a fuel tank can always just hang by the fuel lines!

 

[ah1955]

An interesting item that I believe to be true but perhaps someone can confirm:

In the UK, copper brake lines are permitted (because copper gives and single-flare conenctions are permitted) and steel lines are not (because they can rust).

In the US, steel lines are permitted (because they are stronger and permit the double-flares required by law) and copper is outlawed (because it is soft, easily work haredens and cannot accept a double flare).

We are indeed all the same. Only different.

The alloy tubing that our friend from the UK is talking about is DOT approved for use in the US. It is some what pricey but is very flex able and last very well in even harsh weather. There is a distrubtor for the stuff in MA. that deals it on line, not sure if local parts houses handle it.

 

[jaxsof]

37* flare is a must on stainless. It more than likely will split when you try to double flare it. And please, be sure you get all the matching 37* hardware. 45* and 37* dont play well together!

 

[plym49]

37* flare is a must on stainless. It more than likely will split when you try to double flare it. And please, be sure you get all the matching 37* hardware. 45* and 37* dont play well together!

Another urban legend I have heard over the years: in the US, DOT mandates double-flared connections. Can someone confirm or debunk?