Recent content by 2Pbfeet

From the armchair here, that VR doesn't look that bad, but I guess it depends on one's tolerance for repairs. The newer voltage regulators do have a number of advantages. All the best, 2PbFeet

FWIW: I used a few 5/8" SS 10-32s in places where there are overlapping panels. Might not be 100% by the manual, but mine came with a few there to begin with, and the extra few threads certainly helped me with some of the ones that don't have great access. All the best, 2PbFeet

In a pure WAG, I would use insulated standoffs. I suspect that the originals were on standoffs for two reasons; one to reduce heat load into the support, and two in case of resistor failure, to keep them from shorting to the chassis. It is the second thought item that would make me want to keep...

🤣 love the indicator test video! Congratulations on getting your set into hurricane readiness! All the best, 2PbFeet

Not in my experience. It seems as if your engine is being overfueled. If it were me, I would go back to try fueling the high pressure pump directly again and see if that improves your load and smoke. If it doesn't, I am starting to wonder if pulling the engine to check the camshaft timing and...

No, I would describe that as not normal. However, I am not sure that any of us know how much carbon was already inside your muffler which does I think make it a bit difficult to interpret. How does the engine run without the muffler? (E.g. Smoke onset at what load?) After ten hours of loading...

I think that is the terminal eye for a what @CallMeColt called out. It looks like a missing ground for one of your EMI suppressors. (GND to neutral?) You might be able to scrape a little of the compound out of the way and resolder it. By the looks of it, it sheared when some one was really...

Yes, it was the clean exhaust wrap, the spotlessly clean air cooling fins, clean fans, to name a couple, and that was despite the sand and gravel inside. It was also that none of the engine parts seemed to have been exposed to much heat either, as your gaskets came off very cleanly. That...

Ok, if the bulb itself, per @peapvp, is a 28VAC bulb, then these should work; https://www.mcmaster.com/products/midget-flanged-base-light-bulbs/bulb-base-type~bottom-flanged/ Clear, red, green. Not including the cap/outer cap. All the best, 2PbFeet

The 12mm is very common as it is lost 1/2". These come with a better water resistance; https://www.amazon.com/Indicator-Lights-Waterproof-Stainless-110V-120V/dp/B0CPBMYDSG Always happy to help, and I understand the desire to keep things stock. All the best, 2PbFeet

I can't seem to find a drop in better than what you have. FWIW: There are 120V waterproof LEDs available, but they would look different. E.g. these, 8mm 50 lumens https://www.amazon.com/Gebildet-110V-220V-Indicator-Waterproof-Signal/dp/B08LDCQ7LL or these 6mm...

Can you measure the OD on the bulb barrel, and the flange, and the overall height of the bulb (Guesstimate inside your new housings)? All the best, 2PbFeet EDIT: removed incorrect info.

Count me in as a homemade schnapps fan! Many moons ago, we were coming back from @Guyfang's neck of the woods with half a dozen plus bottles of homemade schnapps from various friends. At customs, I declared it all, and then thought "Oh crap", as it was all clear liquid in unlabeled bottles, and...

Nice catch! Counting connections, and not seeing the bridge, sure makes it seem as if the connection to ground is missing for #2. That sort of oversight always makes me nervous about what else is missing. @Maestro this is a typical bridge or jumper; All the best, 2PbFeet

There are off brands, and there are off brands. To me, the risk with "cheap" ones is reliability. FWIW: Rock Auto is having a close out at the moment on the 24V Carter P74018 pump, and you could get two for less than $40, plus shipping. 1/4-18 NPSF threads inlet and outlet...