Recent content by 87cr250r

You're going to need to give us some more information.

Rubber hose can make a perfectly acceptable long lasting replacement IF you get the right materials. SAE J30R9 and 10 hoses will last indefinitely in.

I tried the aftermarket 850 brass radiator and it was junk. I have an aluminum one with plastic tanks that is much better. Lately there are a lot more aftermarket options including welded aluminum units.

Are you sure it's 9/16-20? 9/16-18 is SAE o-ring boss which Cat uses a lot of.

With a few exceptions there are no wrong coolants today. Just make sure you don't mix them. John Deere brazed aluminum radiators can be damaged by nitrites so that is one example of an exception. The original Detroits ran on soluble oil. The don't care what you put in them but they last a lot...

The type of glycol isn't the issue, it's the corrosion inhibitors. Google inorganic acid technology vs organic acid technology, vs hybrid organic acid technology. The key is to pick one and don't contaminate it. Some types of radiators can be damaged by the IAT and HOAT coolants. The only...

Dang it why did you have to share that link. Now I have just purchased their instrument cluster. I was not anticipating spending that much money tonight. That was my discretionary budget 😱 My throttle cable broke some years ago before I met this forum, and not knowing a CUCV was a 1984 model...

33 inch tires fit without any modifications. The noise is the biggest issue. There is a spot around 60 where the noise drops off. This is where I spent most time cruising.

I know boat paint which is usually too thick for sheet metal applications. But, Awlgrip products are mostly rollerable without the high buildup. If you're bare metal You can use Max Cor CF as a first coat and then 1-2 coats for their 545 epoxy primer. You'll have to buy the right reducers for...

If it's inside the starter the permanent magnets in the stator will have a hold of it. You're going to need to open it. I don't know your starter specifically but the opposite drive end cover should come off without much fuss as it does on most electric motors. You may want to remove the brushes...

You need to look at the API rating on the oil. I run Chevron Delo 400 SDE in my fleet. It's an API SN. The zinc content is half of what it was when it was an SL. The newer Chevron formulations are replacing zinc with Boron and Calcium. I think you'll find the same is true for other oil blenders...

When I say clog I'm talking jets in the carburetor.

Are the pics of the old mounts with the extra weight? They seem to be handling it fine. Adding extra joints of the same compression rate puts them all at very high elongation. Maybe you should look for a stiffer material instead?

My dad gets this on his boat. He doesn't take it out very often but starts it and idles it regularly. The idle circuits stay clean and work fine but once the review to give it some gas the secondaries don't flow fuel because the jets are clogged. No smoke and no power means you've got no fuel...