Recent content by bfdvollie

It has 210 gallon custom aluminum tank with a standard fire fill and a 3" outlet that feeds into a Northern Tool high pressure pump powered by a GX160 Honda engine. That feeds into two manifolds. A manual manifold that has two ports, one for each of the hose reels out back. The other manifold...

We are close to being done. :) Just have to finish mounting the siren and light controls,the spray booms andwork lights. It's already been out on two fires.

We are having issues with starting if it's been sitting. It takes a long time to crank and finally kicks and blows white smoke. We thought it was bad GPC so we found one of the old styles, replaced it and then tried again, but still does it. No issue after initial start up, fires right up.

Our hmmwv has become hard to start. We are going to use the pinpoit tests to see if it's the module.

lol no gold leaf, just vinyl decals :) Easy to fix.

Well we are heading into the home stretch for the rebuilding work. We're waiting on a new three lever switch, a front seat belt upgrade kit and we need to find a left hand mirror. Other than that it's good to go. We had the front seats re-covered by a local marine trim and fabric shop, All...

We borrowed a switch and tested it and we're finding that yes it's the switch. Lights ran for over an hour with no issue. I found a site that shows how to rebuild one, but my Chief says if it's not feasible then go purchase the switch.

No it did it with the engine running as well as we drove them back from NC. It is better since I cleaned and reset the grounds behind the heater controls that TedG discussed. I've been turning the lights on with high beam with hazards as I was working on installing other components to get a...

We are noticing a weird problem with the main light switch when the engine is not running. We noticied this before disassembly and it's doing the same thing after re-assembly. We can have the light siwtched set the the 2 o'clock position so all lights are on. If we leave them on and turn on...

Well we finished POR-15'ing the frame yesterday. Found out it's much cleaner to use a foam brush versus a bristle brush to put this stuff on. A sponge might have been even better. A review of the underbody did note we had a slight front diff leak, the front carier bearing is a little rough...

As we were cleaning our our M1037 we found, besides the bullet holes which were obvious quite a few spent shell casings under the NVH pads and in the B pillars. Plus we got enough sand out of it to fill a few mason jars. Not much green left on ours. If it isn't red or black it's not seen. :)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13745394@N07/8212460510/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/13745394@N07/8211371231/in/photostream/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/13745394@N07/8212458226/in/photostream/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/13745394@N07/8212457460/in/photostream/...

Ok I got it unscrewed and it's a very dark green. I plan to do a bench test and see what the bulb is doing. I'm assuming this is a positive lead at the bottom with a chassis ground.

Ok, here are some pictures of what we have. I see a dark piece of plastic behind the sealing gasket. Is this what you are refering to? http://www.flickr.com/photos/13745394@N07/8206193488/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/13745394@N07/8205103435/

Ok the tops of them are painted over. Do they back shoot behind the mounting panel to back light the gauges?