Recent content by BlueRoadster

That is a thought I haven't thought of, however unless someone messed with it while in the store it worked when I arrived there. I will double check that though for sure. Thank you. I am going to replace the key first. Then I will check the continuity while I am waiting for that to come in...

Thank you guys. Yes I put a keyed switch (plastic) in 7 years ago and started having trouble witht it starting having to turn the key to start several times to get it to turn over. I have ordered a new one (metal) this time around and will put it in when it arrives. However I still have no...

This is what I've got. Its not a KDS or Nartron so which should I buy? And from what I have read on here everyone says to stay whith what you have but only mention KDS or Nartron so I am not sure if it does matter or not. the part numbers are the same on all of them. I've got the 60 amp alternator.

The rims are actually black. This was the only one I have redily available.

Mogman, it is a 998 I have owned it for 7 years however I have never had an electrical issue. I have an A&P mechanics license and am familiar with most gas and diesel vehichles however as you know these are a completely different creature which is why I come here for knowledge before I try to...

Thank you. I have the yellow tag says I believe ISS on the side. It is tight. I drove it to the store but sat there an Hour or so and then nothing. The guages came alive at first but then it was dead. I've got the TM but thought if someone knew a quick fix instead of hours in the TM I may could...

As the title says, I am getting no power from the batteries. They are charged. There are no headlights, blinkers or turning over. The gauges don't "come alive" when the key is turned on. There is NO power. I am at a loss. Is there a fusible link somewhere I am missing? It is stuck at a convience...

WOW! Thanks guys, that is a lot of great information. I guess its time to start getting dirty and dive in.

My rear tires toe in majorly. I go through 2 sets of rear tires to one set of fronts (I believe is caused by the rear toe in). Does anyine know why it is so bad? Is it too long a spring? Is there an adjustment? Sorry if this is a stupid question I just can't figure this out on my own apparently...

17,500 lb winch is overkill as I believe the 12k would have done it with a better plate. I didn't see the need for the snatch block this time. It pulled out fine once I got the heavy duty plate built. I was even using a spare battery on the ground to pull power from. It wasn't even being...

Yes a tough lesson but one he did not have to learn as his dad (me) told him not to go down there because his uncle had a tractor stuck twice that I pulled out with my HMMWV. And of course he waits til I'm out of town to try and see if I was right. This time he is paying the stupid tax.

The 12,000 lb I believe failed due to the weak winch plate which was why I built one out of 1/4" steel. It had started moving when the plate gave way so I believed (correctly) that 17,500 should do it. Yes the Dodge had to stay there until I had means to get it out (a hard lesson for him doing...

Snatch block is in the truck (20,000 lb). I didn't have to use it to get my son out but I had it if I needed to.

Thank you. I hope to use it to pull others out........never myself, lol.

I had to get my sons RAM 2500 out of the mud he was very stuck in. He buried up to the body and my HMMWV and a tractor couldn't get him out. I destroyed a 12,000 lb winch and winch plate trying to get it out. So I designed and built my own winch plate and got a 17,500 lb winch and that got him...