No power from battery at all

[BlueRoadster]

As the title says, I am getting no power from the batteries. They are charged. There are no headlights, blinkers or turning over. The gauges don't "come alive" when the key is turned on. There is NO power.
I am at a loss. Is there a fusible link somewhere I am missing? It is stuck at a convience store until I can get it started and brought back to my house. I really need help here please.

Thanks,
Grant

 

[Mogman]

Get the applicable TM with schematic and your volt meter and start troubleshooting the issue, I would suggest start by crawling under the truck and inspecting the wiring around the starter, also do you have an EESS box in the truck and are all the connectors installed and tight? nothing happens without a good working and properly connected EESS box.
Oh yes WELCOME!!!

 

[Mogman]

If you do not understand what a TM and an EESS (also called a PCB) box is then I would suggest disconnecting the batteries and do more research before trying to fire up your new toy, it may save you big bucks in the long run.
Also what model truck do you have? post a couple pics!

 

[BlueRoadster]

Thank you. I have the yellow tag says I believe ISS on the side. It is tight. I drove it to the store but sat there an Hour or so and then nothing. The guages came alive at first but then it was dead.
I've got the TM but thought if someone knew a quick fix instead of hours in the TM I may could get it home faster.
I kind of suspect the Computer. Just gotta find one now. Will ANY yellow tag do or does it need to be the same brand?

Thanks,
Grant

 

[BlueRoadster]

Mogman, it is a 998 I have owned it for 7 years however I have never had an electrical issue. I have an A&P mechanics license and am familiar with most gas and diesel vehichles however as you know these are a completely different creature which is why I come here for knowledge before I try to dive in on my own. As you say to try to help save me a lot of money.

Thank you,
Grant

 

[BlueRoadster]

The rims are actually black. This was the only one I have redily available.

 

[BlueRoadster]

This is what I've got. Its not a KDS or Nartron so which should I buy? And from what I have read on here everyone says to stay whith what you have but only mention KDS or Nartron so I am not sure if it does matter or not. the part numbers are the same on all of them. I've got the 60 amp alternator.

 

[TOBASH]

I would say the following:

The first thing is takeoff all the battery leads and check them for resistance. Then clean them and re-attach them.

EDIT - If you have an aftermarket keyed ignition, it is possible it failed. They are a known weak point in the system. They burn up and burn out and just give up the ghost.

Then, it is possible that you have a problem with your protective control box. I have posted, with the help of others, how to rebuild the protective control box so that these issues do not occur. The protective control box will shut off your vehicle and prevent it from operating if it becomes defective. The protective control box that you have is especially crappy as it is difficult to rebuild. Feel free to PM me if you wish for me to sell you a remanufactured protective control box that has eliminated integrated circuits. You can also contact Cam Ogden Milcommguy. I designed my unit with his help.

Post 51 shows the actual diagram to bypass the PCB

How to bypass PCB? I am aware some HMMWV owners have done it.

I'm not trying to speak sacrilege here, and I don't want to precipitate a war of words. :shock: How might I build a manual control box? My 24Volt Landcruiser just uses a glow wire to show glow plugs are ready, and then she just starts right up with the twist of a key. Civilian 6.2 Diesel...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[Mogman]

That is an old box, there should be a 24V relay in it that could be giving you trouble, many do.
Was the glow plug controller working correctly before this issue? if so I would try checking/replacing the relay first.

 

[TOBASH]

Please refer to my edit above regarding aftermarket keyed ignition switches.

 

[papakb]

Let's back up a second with the troubleshooting. Does your truck have one of the well known-to-fail Chinese keyswitches in it? If it does change it out first and see what happens. Next I would check the voltage on the main starter lug first to make sure it's getting that far. From there before jumping into an expensive control box let's take a look at circuit breaker 2 (CB2) behind the dash and make sure it hasn't died. Check for power in and out of the breaker. He did say that the gauges did come on briefly and then die which sounds a lot like a breaker expiring. Next check for power into the RUN switch (keyswitch) and if it's there is it on the output when turned on?

If there's no input power to the circuit breaker then we're back to the ISS box.

 

[BlueRoadster]

Thank you guys. Yes I put a keyed switch (plastic) in 7 years ago and started having trouble witht it starting having to turn the key to start several times to get it to turn over. I have ordered a new one (metal) this time around and will put it in when it arrives. However I still have no headlights or blinkers where I did have before when the key wasn't even in the switch.
I saw in the TM the breakers (only two that I saw in the TM), I will check those as well when I go back over there. It is still stuck at the store and I really don't want to leave it there overnight as it isn't a 24hr store. My son and I are going to go put smaller tires on it tonight (because I cannot steer it very easily with the 37's on it) and try to pull it home (about 2 miles). It is hard to work on it in a parking lot.
I appreciate all the input and am going to try them. I have to drive back and forth right now to try to do each thing so If it takes some time for me to get back with you, this is why.

Thank you all again,
Grant

 

[G744]

Be aware the light switch has an "all lights off" blackout position. Top lever straight up.

This is done so as not to divulge your position at night.

For blackout driving, top lever to the left. First is blackout markers, the next is the blackout drive, a very weak light shining down n the driver's side.

Normal day driving is "stop light" (one click right) while holding up the left lock lever. It allows turn signals and stop lights.

Night driving is the "service drive" position, one more click to the right.

Panel lights are on the left lever, off-dim-bright. Pushed all the way down, it will turn on the park lights if the headlights are on.

The lighting system is not powered by the ignition switch.

DG

 

[papakb]

Grant, The master light switch gets it's power thru the control box directly from the batteries so it isn't looking good there. Power comes into the control box on wire 81A to the engine connector on pin E, links thru the box and comes out on the body connector on pin F and then over to the master light switch on wire 15A to pin F. With a multimeter you can read continuity between E and F to make sure the connection hasn't fried internal to the box. There is a circuit breaker internal to the light switch but otherwise it's a direct connection from the batteries.

A word of caution here. When connecting and disconnecting the control box you always want to have your batteries disconnected. Lifting off the negative terminal lug is the safest way to do this because if your wrench hits anything you aren't providing a short to ground.

I have a couple of new ISS boxes if you get that far and need one.

 

[BlueRoadster]

Be aware the light switch has an "all lights off" blackout position. Top lever straight up.

This is done so as not to divulge your position at night.


DG

That is a thought I haven't thought of, however unless someone messed with it while in the store it worked when I arrived there. I will double check that though for sure. Thank you.

Grant, The master light switch gets it's power thru the control box directly from the batteries so it isn't looking good there. Power comes into the control box on wire 81A to the engine connector on pin E, links thru the box and comes out on the body connector on pin F and then over to the master light switch on wire 15A to pin F. With a multimeter you can read continuity between E and F to make sure the connection hasn't fried internal to the box. There is a circuit breaker internal to the light switch but otherwise it's a direct connection from the batteries.

I am going to replace the key first. Then I will check the continuity while I am waiting for that to come in. Thank you for the suggestions.