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The critical part being to reassemble it out of the truck and install it complete on chains with the cherry picker, because I've no faith in the ability to stay on axis trying to lower the block back into the mounts wearing a diaper made out of a tow strap. There's no telling how the wraps will...
Having gone so far already, might as well yank the pan and carry on smartly. Just put it all back together on a stand and drop it back in fully assembled.
Good question. Forgive me for talking out of my ass, but my best guess would be to use eye bolts threaded into the head stud holes, squared up to the four corners with a balance bar. I haven't hoisted a headless engine before, so don't take my word for it, but thread matching should be easy...
Compared to stuff that's advertised for the purpose, that is a screaming deal. $250 cheaper than the drum I was looking at through Tractor Supply too. Thank you.
A quart of house brand chainsaw oil per about 20 gallons of fuel keeps my injector pump happy and the pump lets me know when the fuel gets too dry. Starts bogging and surging.
Anybody running marine two stroke in their Stanadyne?
Looking to buy cheap lubricity in bulk. Still haven't figured...
Really, you've just got to use an abrasive that's harder than gasket material, but softer than the cylinder head. I'm not afraid to use steel bristle wire brushes on iron, but I wouldn't use a steel bristle rotary tool. Brass wheels wear out fast, but they shouldn't hurt anything. The DIY thing...