Recent content by CARC686

Drop-in? No futzing with fittings or adapters?

I think it's a safe bet I don't need anything to last 40 years. :LOL:

Short list: Front main seal, harmonic balancer, rear main seal, reseal pan, reseal timing cover, reseal valve covers, oil cooler lines, exhaust manifold gaskets, glow plugs, lower radiator hose, coolant temperature sensor, radiator petcock, transmission output shaft seal, R&R all rubber fuel...

Pricey, ain't it? I'll pull out the oxy ace and make one.

Anybody got a trick for yanking the front main out without scratching up the crank nose?

I read in an old post that the hard lines on the ends are barbed and you can DIY it. No harm in giving it a try. Either way, it's getting dealt with.

Is it true you can cut the rubber off the oil cooler lines and replace them with clamped 1/2" hyd hose? OEM has been discontinued for 16 years.

In the process of pulling the damper, I noticed I'm going to have the engine pulled down to a short block fixing leaks before I'm done. If it's rubber, it's ruined. Yeehaw.

Fuel cutoff solenoid.

You can't advance the timing enough to burn all the fuel from the big pump and it will always stink. Might be good for a turbo.

No, I just swapped in a new one and the truck ran again.

When I had your symptoms, the problem was the injector pump. The lift pump leak didn't stop the truck running. The failing injector pump did stop the truck running.

Straight down onto the ground from the lift pump under the passenger side alternator.

My lift pump's failure mode was a massive fuel leak. The truck still ran fine. When I had the symptoms described, the problem was my injector pump.

Hard to find anything reasonably priced anymore. My belts are older than my ownership of the truck. Since they have to come off anyway while I deal with my reward for putting mechanic in a bottle in my engine, figured I'd replace them too. Thank you for the reference image. I had saved it and...