Recent content by cattlerepairman

I see that you have no bites. Heave you seen this: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m35a2-465-psb6a-injection-pump-timing.162268/

There does not seem to be much in the way of rebuildable components for the in-tank fuel pump: https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/questions-about-the-deuce-fuel-system.81984/page-2#post-1047701 What some members have done is to replace the in-tank pump with a 24V external in line pump and that...

I think your title of "Electric windshield wiper install" is actually "How we took a crappy Military electric wiper kit and expertly modified it into something that actually works, installs well and looks much cleaner". No shortage of effort went into that! Good job.

Well... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/airpack-modification-for-towing.23611/# Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk

Methinks the copper washers are just a tad too wide in their OD. They go into the bore but don't seat. Maybe take a little off around the edge? You seem to have done a ton of good work! I refreshed my LDS, so I know the frustration when things get weird! Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk

For the shutoff cover gasket (the metallized one) you are looking for part 5330-00-419-9467. Vendors such as Big Mike have this. That very same vendor also has a 3 o-ring kit that is exactly for what you want them for on the hydraulic head and the shutoff.

There is info on this site. One comment is to not use the hose loop as described, but to just plug the ports. Reason: eliminates a failure point. Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk

Locking diffs...me like!

@DavidWymore that sounds good (especially doing the IP oil lines while the engine is out). Maybe steaming the engines down and then check for leaks while you run them. Practically anything is easier to fix while they are out. Exhaust manifold gasket leaks, rear of the head oil leak etc. Main...

I am always in awe about the stories of the multi still running damaged. Did you see which part(s) exited the block? Often it is the old-style rod bolts that let go at high rpm and the connecting rod fenestrates the block. I guess it slowly gets to the point where it is worth the while to...

Yes, I think it is condensation from sitting endlessly with partially full tanks. Even though the cap is not vented, the air space above the fuel contains moisture. I recommend to snag an M35A3 aluminium tank and be done with that rust!

Windowed block makes rod bearing inspection so much easier! Truck looks decent, otherwise! Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk

Sheet metal looks solid, including cab corners. Pressure-washed, the truck likely comes right around to an acceptable level of prettyness! Let us know what you find and what it needs! Also, fiberglass troop seats that do not rot away!

I read @kendelrio 's advice and now my back hurts.

I was thinking that using LDS INTAKE rocker arms and an LDS pump should up the hp of the LDT to at least close to where the LDS sits. Maybe 200 is optimistic, but I am sure it would scoot!