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@DavidWymore that sounds good (especially doing the IP oil lines while the engine is out). Maybe steaming the engines down and then check for leaks while you run them. Practically anything is easier to fix while they are out. Exhaust manifold gasket leaks, rear of the head oil leak etc.
Main...
I am always in awe about the stories of the multi still running damaged. Did you see which part(s) exited the block? Often it is the old-style rod bolts that let go at high rpm and the connecting rod fenestrates the block.
I guess it slowly gets to the point where it is worth the while to...
Yes, I think it is condensation from sitting endlessly with partially full tanks. Even though the cap is not vented, the air space above the fuel contains moisture.
I recommend to snag an M35A3 aluminium tank and be done with that rust!
Sheet metal looks solid, including cab corners. Pressure-washed, the truck likely comes right around to an acceptable level of prettyness!
Let us know what you find and what it needs! Also, fiberglass troop seats that do not rot away!
I was thinking that using LDS INTAKE rocker arms and an LDS pump should up the hp of the LDT to at least close to where the LDS sits. Maybe 200 is optimistic, but I am sure it would scoot!
Oh, you would grab a set of LDS rocker arms and turn the fuel up! ** evil grin**
Yes, the LDS pump works just fine on an LDT. But...rocker arms and enjoy 200+ hp!
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@734 that is a very sane approach. Giving yourself time reduces a lot of stress. If you can get the important systems on your truck working fairly reliably (fuel, brakes, axles, cooling) the truck will soldier on, even if other (minor) things need fixing later.
Good advice. 45 miles is not far but it can be, if you are stranded in the middle of an intersection.
Consider getting a replacement air tank and switch it out on site if that is possible. Likely the wet tank....never drained and now pinholed.
Next check has to be the brakes, if you want to...
Could you post some pics of your setup? Going hydraulic would be a safety improvement, especially for one-person winch ops.
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When I got my truck, years ago, soldier B had installed a grade 8 bolt through the shear pin hole, which I found while inspecting the winch. Soldier B probably did that because he was fed up with having to get underneath and replace yet another shear pin. I agree that this is a disaster waiting...
In short: reduce wear and tear on the front part of the drive train. The axle shafts are permanently connected to the front wheel hubs. Even with 6x6 disengaged, the front wheels spin the axle shafts and the front drive shaft passively. This sucks power and causes wear on the assembly for no...