Recent content by derpschitz

Awesome, this is exactly what I wanted. I have a big 1" impact wrench as well, so long as the truck has enough air to loosen the lugnuts enough to get them off by hand the rest of the way, I should be good. Thanks!

I've been searching the google and this forum trying to find the answer to "what is the air pressure coming off the gladhands" but can't find any info. My intent is to find out if there is enough flow off the emergency line to run an impact hammer capable of moving the lugnuts. Thanks!

Is a torque multiplier wrench something that would work for a tirechange kit? Something like this: https://tinyurl.com/y9s65x9b Considering the alternative is a massive pneumatic driver with gladhand adapters…

I did not. Mine goes from telling me 100% when it's half filled, to "fuel level too high" and then it will read 23% or so when it's completely dry. It hasn't been a major issue yet since I just keep it topped off and use my eyeballs to check the level. It just tweaks my obsessive compulsion for...

Yeah we have "covered vehicle exemption" which allows us to ignore the need for load limits or CDL when running heavy ag stuff around in-state and some distance across state lines. From the other posts it seems like the frame and hardware will take it, just gotta be confident about the tires...

I know the LMTV (1078) is rated for 2.5 tons/5000 lbs cargo, but it's got room for 6 pallets in back. Would it break stuff driving on-road with 6 full tons in the back? I ask out of practicality-- I bought this truck for farm use and would like to use it to haul feed. Thanks!

Do you have any measurements on the bottom/base part of it? I've got various trailer chassis sitting around wondering if it will fit any of them. Can't find any specs online of the base, just the overall size. Looks like it fits well in an 1101/2.

Got it all solved. Dead solenoid was the cause. Got Colt's new one put in, works like a charm. Thanks everyone for the advice!

I've got a pretty good multimeter, there is definitely adequate power to the solenoid.

I gotta make sure the electric stuff is functioning properly first, otherwise the solenoid won't matter.

I ordered one from him, good thing anyways because this old one won't work despite being cleaned up, and I broke off one of the brass fittings reinstalling it. I get 27v from the plug on startup and with the fording switch on. Is there a way to get it to "engage" thinking that the thermal...

I opened up the solenoid, looks like there was a bit of schmutz on the contact part of the valve. Maybe this is what was making it stick? The rest appears OK at least to me. I might have a 24v power supply around here somewhere I can test it with.

I guess at this point the next thing I can test is "what is happening on the solenoid wires?" so what should I look for here? Assuming 24v power? What is the default vs activated state (ie: does power to the solenoid open or shut the valve?)

So, this guy here I assume is the line going to the fan. I disconnected it as shown to see if it would push air after start. Engine cold, idled until brakes, CTIS, etc were well pressurized and the air dryer was honking periodically. Nothing happened here at the solenoid. I tried the fording...

Couldn't leave it alone so I did some more troubleshooting. I think it's the solenoid. Plenty of pressure supplied on the manifold side, but none coming through the pipe to the fan clutch after starting up and letting it run for a while. Photos forthcoming...