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Someone on here or a FB group mentioned them being for sale on ebay. Bought them a few months ago and just got around to installing them.
was under "HMMWV window roller replacement" or something similar
I would chock the wheels and drop the diff end of each driveshaft so there is no load on it and then check(and grease ) all the u-joints. Often the u-joints will seem good when installed but are in fact seized or wollered out and it is only noticeable when one end is removed.
If all is good...
Got a set of those 3D printed slider blocks that replace the rattly rollers in the X-door windows.
Took a little flat filing to smooth and fit the edges to my channels. No more annoying rattles while driving.
If its windy and dusty for the first few days after application, yes but after a few days it is dry to the touch and no worse than the old flat paint. It rinses clean with a hose easier as well.
Military uses diesel fuel when they need to look nice for inspections.
WD40 seems to last a little longer.
I buy it in the gallon can and apply it with a hand spray bottle.
It has similar benefits as oiling a gun prior to storage.
Tires get a few coats of PB Blaster Silicone Spray. It doesnt...
Good 1/8 drill bit and spring loaded center punch to drill out all those rivets. A small angle drill is a big help as well for some of the hard to reach rivets.
I have great results with the CARC substitute spray paint on the vinyl parts and to touch up the body.
The body paint I then coat completely with WD40 inside and out. Looks like new.
Your paint on the body looks great and will be perfect with the WD40 treatment.
On the rear fender mounted A/C style the drier is mounted in the passenger rear wheel well right behind the fuel filler pipe.
On the Red Dot A/C system the drier is attached to the condenser assembly
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