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Im currently running this 15lb that came in plain cardboard military packaging.
I was recommended to upgrade to the 16lb and im currently looking for the same NOS Mil. in 16lb
No.
We had the batteries hooked up briefly on day one and we didnt find any signs of power to the truck.
Flipped the battery switch to on and no signs of life. No gauges, no fuel pump, no lights, no air buzzer. nothing. No clicks or sizzles. no burning smells, nothing.
Tried flipping a few...
It will bleed itself with a few hot/cold cycles. Before starting it cold every time, check the coolant overflow bottle and add coolant to the cold full line. It may stay full or take a few times but it should eventually always be at cold full at startup.
Make sure you have a new genuine...
The batteries are hooked up properly. I will disconnect the slave receptacle though before proceeding.
We installed a new cable from the positive stud to the starter. A new cable between the batteries. The negative cable to frame was in good shape.
Four new clamps.
this is how the starter...
Good info. Thanks!
Where do the two #11s get power from? Do they terminate somewhere or do they go to a wrapped spice in the harness somewhere?
I have a significant short (thats melting my negative post) somewhere i need to find before I can hook up the batteries even.
I believe you have the correct flasher unit. Unscrew the connector and make sure the connector is not corroded and that it is not cross threaded (mine was) and seats fully when tightened.
Those seco LEDs look shiny chineseum as the blackout signals look molded over and no seal in the back of...
Here the trashed connector in the foreground was labeled 87/106/38. The dirty one to the left was labeled 486/85. Notice the position of the two ribbed receptacles.
Here is that wire 486/85 in the foreground and on the left is the frayed #11(ignition?) wire with a ribbed connector that is NOT...
The letters have deteriorated to where I cant positively ID which is which.
Plus the one wire that makes sense, #11 ignition, that has ribs on the connector, was not plugged into either of the two ribbed receptacles.
So i am skeptical as to the correctness of how they were hooked up.
I still...
Do they blink when the switch is in the headlight on position?
What kind of LED turn signals did the previous owner install? LED replacement bulbs or complete military style composite light assemblies?
the wiring to the battery switch.
These were the wires going to the battery switch.
According to a list if military "M-series truck circuit numbers" i found on the innerwebs...
#11 shows as "ignition"
#486 shows as "Manifold heater main engine"
#85 shows as "Low air pressure indicator...
Yes Thats where the shutoff cable device would have been mounted. It does appear that it has been replaced with an electric shutoff.
Dont run it on anything other than diesel. The "multi-fuel" capability was a pie-in-the-sky dream of the atomic age that was troublesome in practice and commonly...
I would go with the M809 series 1970-1982. They have a Cummins engine (240 H.P.).
The multifuel (175 H.P.) is not the coolness you would assume. Most have had the multifuel compensator bypassed as they are kind of a liability for many reasons.
The M39 series, 1951-1965 (M54) are also old and...
Turn the headlights/running lights on. Are the turn signals, when blinking, all the same nice brightness when they flash or is one a little off?
I had this recently and the only other symptom was that the four ways just stayed on no flash.
Turned out one rear flasher bulb was bad. One of the...
I had the OEM hoses for the acme. All new except of #1 and #8 were used as I needed to harvest the rear GM(?) style blocks to attach the new fabbed hoses to the evaporator bulkhead and the frame hard line. The harvested block also contained the low pressure switch
I also took my RED DOT...