Recent content by M1009_SPAIN

I think that sensor is the one that controls the glow plugs, to start without detecting that the engine is cold. In my case, my board is broken and I use a manual button to activate the glow plugs, so I removed that sensor and installed this one, which has the same measurements. ROSTRA 680002...

Don't say that, we're all useful. You helped me understand what shift lankage was and how to adjust it. Does anyone else have any idea what could be wrong? I'm telling you, the car runs normally and has power; no gear slips, except when braking hard, as I explained above.

I did what you told me to do. I removed the linkage, moved the TH 400 to P, and went out to test drive the car. At 30 mph, you brake hard until the car stops. You accelerate to resume driving, and the car doesn't move. It's as if you were accelerating in P or N. It doesn't matter what you select...

ok, I will see if there is a video on YouTube and I will make the adjustment, I will report back with the result

the gear lever from P R N D 2 1 moves up and down without problem, except for the P which scratches and does not let you put it in, having to turn off the car in N select 2hi or 4hi, in no208 and put it back in D to start moving The transmission mounts are new and reinforced. I installed them 5...

Well, I just tried it and the same thing happens in 4x4. You brake and it stays in neutral. What exactly is wrong? Does anyone know?

What piece is it exactly, because when I translate it to Spanish I don't understand, do you know the reference?

I will test it in 4x4 hi and 2 lo and report if it does the same or what it does.

After fixing the Gen 1 light and the infamous cable, we're back with a new incident in the revival of my M1009. Today, my M1009 did this to me a couple of times. When I'm driving in D and brake hard, when I accelerate again, the car doesn't move and acts as if it were in N. I hit the brakes...

Yes, I'll do that with this one, and buy some. A friend I have in the US can send them to me. Thanks for everything.

I cut the cable 2cm below the broken piece, above the black cylinder, connected the multimeter in continuity mode and it started to beep, which means in principle that the cable is healthy, I will splice the cable there and remove the splice cable that I installed. until I get the 20 AWG fuse cable

The wirecable 20 is broken, I just disassembled it and 5cm from the black cylinder it is broken, a part of the plastic holds it. Am I going to cut and splice it flush with the plastic, or is the black cylinder, which is the fuse, already useless? until they send me one to my country

I understand it's not just a wire, what are you referring to? https://www.sherco-auto.com/products/fusible-link-16-gauge-general-use-orange Or that I should install a fuse like the ones in the 20-amp fuse box inside the wire. Did I understand correctly?

I understand. I think the original wirecable with 20 refers to AWG 20. The one I bought for installation is equivalent in the US to AWG 12, with a higher strand count and ohm resistance. That's why I'm asking if you think that's correct. Thanks.

Indeed, the black plastic, which you say is a fuse, has a 20V rating. I've looked at it closely, and the color change looks like dirt. I'm going to remove it and see if it has continuity. From the beginning of the cable to the end of the white connector, there's no 12V, so the Gen 1 light is...