Recent content by M1009_SPAIN

Yes, I'll do that with this one, and buy some. A friend I have in the US can send them to me. Thanks for everything.

I cut the cable 2cm below the broken piece, above the black cylinder, connected the multimeter in continuity mode and it started to beep, which means in principle that the cable is healthy, I will splice the cable there and remove the splice cable that I installed. until I get the 20 AWG fuse cable

The wirecable 20 is broken, I just disassembled it and 5cm from the black cylinder it is broken, a part of the plastic holds it. Am I going to cut and splice it flush with the plastic, or is the black cylinder, which is the fuse, already useless? until they send me one to my country

I understand it's not just a wire, what are you referring to? https://www.sherco-auto.com/products/fusible-link-16-gauge-general-use-orange Or that I should install a fuse like the ones in the 20-amp fuse box inside the wire. Did I understand correctly?

I understand. I think the original wirecable with 20 refers to AWG 20. The one I bought for installation is equivalent in the US to AWG 12, with a higher strand count and ohm resistance. That's why I'm asking if you think that's correct. Thanks.

Indeed, the black plastic, which you say is a fuse, has a 20V rating. I've looked at it closely, and the color change looks like dirt. I'm going to remove it and see if it has continuity. From the beginning of the cable to the end of the white connector, there's no 12V, so the Gen 1 light is...

This is the unconnected wire, which is red and comes out of the white connector on the exciter and turns orange when it reaches the fuse. The fuse pin has 12V, but the orange (red) wire that goes to the white alternator plug has 0V. I made a jumper to the alternator's B+ wire, as I mentioned...

Okay, I'll run a new wire from the firewall fuse where the exciter wire starts to the alternator bolt. the red wire turns orange and they're connected by black plastic. That's not a diode or anything weird, right? I'm referring to using a direct cable.

@Tow4 Or do you have any other idea? Thanks to your post, I tested the circuit and found the fault in the red exciter wire. Would you replace the red exciter wire and remove the jumper I made? Or would you leave the jumper I made between the red exciter wire and B+?

I tested it, and the alternator works. After checking that it was generating 14.8V, I connected a jumper cable from the red wire of the white exciter connector to the 12V B+ pin. The alternator always generates 14.8V. I checked it with the vehicle's voltmeter and with a manual voltmeter. 14V...

Is your gen 1 ok? How did you fix it?

I checked it, cleaned it with a wire brush, cleaned the cable connector... that's why I said I'm out of ideas.

Hi guys, I need help with my M1009 and the damn Gen1. I had my Gen1 rebuilt when the light came on, and I verified it wasn't a blown fuse, and that power was reaching the red lead with the key off and the brown lead of the white square connector with the key on. It worked for two days, and on...

This community is incredible. I have my M 1009 up and running, but I didn't know how the TH400 worked. I was worried about the shifting. In 1st gear, I wouldn't shift into 2nd gear until I passed 25 mph, and I thought I had the vacuum pump in the wrong position, a punctured tube... but reading...

Thanks