Recent content by markx250

Just to the left of the glow plug relay on the firewall. If you got to the stickies for the GP Resistor Bypass there is a nice closeup on Thread #4. Mine has a small red wire following along with the orange and also ending up at the 12V bolts. But instead of being connected to the Duvac, it...

Any updates on this? I think I may have a similar problem. Mine won't start since it is only getting 6V or so to the starter relay ... not enough to trip it. Everything else works, except now my turn signals stopped. So I got a bad switch, ground or short I need to trace.

It should go to the rear battery negative (as shown in the photo) or the front battery positive, which are connected. I think he went with the rear battery negative since it is closer and easier to route to. My alternator should be here tomorrow and I will be doing the same thing on my 1028...

I was grounding to the black wire on the relay. I think she's mad that I brought the 1028 home :)

1009 almost stranded me yesterday. Went for a spin, stopped and when I turned the key to start ... nothing to the starter. Toolbox was in the 1028 (to-do ... get another toolbox). All I had was a multi-tool and some extra heavy wiring under the dash for the powered rear window, so I jumped...

Yes, it still has the AC on the driver side. Thanks for the tip on Duvac ... when I looked at it I wondered what the blue thingie with the fins on it was all about. I knew u guys would have it all figured out. I wonder if those stacked alternators would interfere with a possible turbo install?

Looking at pulling the trigger on an M1028 to keep my M1009 company. This one happens to be one of the 1987 rare birds with the heavy-duty charging system (2 big red alternators on the passenger side). Truck is low miles, great shape, but one of the benefits I was hoping to keep was having 2...

The aluminum radiator is 1/4" shorter than what I had in it, so I am going to need some new rubber for the mounting. Anyone have a good source. I guess I will get the tape measure out and do a mock-fit up to see what type of spacing I need to get a firm grip. Never mind. Everything was good...

Axeman, did u just get the 2-rower? I see they have 3-rowers "coming soon" There is one on ebay for ~300 that is a 3 rower. I imagine 2-rows should work fine unless I get around to putting a turbo on. Thanks, I got by battery boxes and inner fender tig-welded back up and am ready to put...

Mainsail, saw you mentioned aluminum. Went back and researched some old threads along with some googling. So the question is if 3 rows/cores are really need needed if you go to aluminum or would 2 rows suffice? In my case, light-duty, no turbo ... at least for now :) Double checked the one...

Going down to see my friend Swiss is who is running the GA gig this year. He has a wrecker so if I break down, he is coming to get my a$$, even if I am still in VA! Understand the logic though and I will probably get a new one. Good thing I pulled the radiator ... front battery track needs...

At the crossroads now. Developed a pin-hole leak over the last few months. After driving and parking, it might leak 1/8 cup on driver's side while still hot and then it shuts off once cooled. Imagine thermal expansion is bending some seam open just enough. Plan on driving from VA to the GA...

Fixed it ... blown 5-amp courtesy light fuse ... the hard way. I was looking for power to the #5 terminal of the light switch (see attached pic). So I traced it back to the 12v constant slot to the left of the 20-amp parking/marker fuse, as shown in Warthog's diagrams. What I did not know...

Still no luck. I have no power getting to the #5 terminal for the light switch plug. If I feed power to directly #3 or #4 in the plug, I get marker lights. I am studying Warthog's wiring diagrams to try and trace the path. One point of confusion for me right now is that I would imaging that...

Looks like it is the light switch for me. I just pulled it and tested continuity between #1 (battery feed) and #6 (headlight) and this is OK but nothing between #1 and 3-4-5 (tailights). Just to be thorough, I am going to run a 12v jumper to 3-4-5 to see if the lights power up. Update #1...