m1009 Radiator questions

[a68cudas]

Hello has anyone on here replaced there old radiator with a brand new one in there m1009? What type did you get, recommend, and to stay away from? I see they make all aluminum ones also plastic tank and alum core. I know they still make the copper ones but they want an arm and a leg for them. Suggestions comments anyone? Thanks

 

[Warthog]

Covered many many times. Part #2098. You may need to finely sand the oil cooler lines to make them fit.

Look at the bottom of the page under "similar threads". It list a few of them.

In the ten+ years of this website, almost every item has been covered at least once.

 

[a68cudas]

Covered many many times. Part #2098. You may need to finely sand the oil cooler lines to make them fit.

Look at the bottom of the page under "similar threads". It list a few of them.

In the ten+ years of this website, almost every item has been covered at least once.

Thanks Warthog the Napa radiator is to expensive for me i dont wanna drop 5 bills on a radiator. Has anyone tried any other direct fit radiators other than Napa any aftermarket ones any good that are cheaper than 500 bucks preferrably all aluminum construction ? Thanks

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Several folks have had good success with the aluminum ones. Search on "billet aluminum" and you'll probably score a few hits that will give you the info you need.

BTW, that "billet aluminum" is just advertising hogwash. They are NOT made from solid billets!

 

[scottladdy]

Just replaced mine with the Spectra Premium/Cooling Depot part # CU850 from RockAuto.com About $300 if you use the %5 discount coupon. 4 core copper and brass construction. Zero issues with getting the cooler lines to work.

There is a second "collar" molded into the plastic of the "original" coolant level sensor near the tip that I had to trim down. That is the only mod I needed to perform.

This rad even comes with the little o-rings and all necessary fittings.

Just my experience.

 

[porkysplace]

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[Vhyle]

I replaced mine with the aluminum radiator from rockauto.com. It installed flawlessly; didn't have to modify or change a thing. And so far, so good. It's holding up just fine. $287 with shipping.

 

[kentuckycucv]

I just orderede one from Advanced Auto parts Online discount and free shipping to my door. p#432098 I will let you know how it goes. The reviews said it was all metal brass etc... The guy at the store could tell me nothing. Cost 339 but with a 15% online discount and free shipping put me at $289ish

 

[77_Jimmy]

Have your current one rodded out at a radiator shop.

 

[SouthernSteel]

I bought the napa one(Twentyninetyeight)$450.00 you can best believe I will be using it if I junk it out and it was a direct bolt in and had it in for almost 2 years and no problem

 

[topgun217]

Got mine at Auto zone $329. The give a veteran s discount plus used a coupon. Looking on line it shows out of stock, go to the store and they will order it for you. It is all brass and copper. I had no problems with install at all.

Funny thing, the new radiator is 4core. The old one I replaced was only a 2core.

 

[markx250]

At the crossroads now. Developed a pin-hole leak over the last few months. After driving and parking, it might leak 1/8 cup on driver's side while still hot and then it shuts off once cooled. Imagine thermal expansion is bending some seam open just enough.

Plan on driving from VA to the GA rally this fall so thought I would get it fixed before it gets worse.

Still on the fence as to whether have a rad shop fix the leak or go the Advanced Auto route for $280.

 

[JamieM1009]

Just replaced mine with the Spectra Premium/Cooling Depot part # CU850 from RockAuto.com About $300 if you use the %5 discount coupon. 4 core copper and brass construction. Zero issues with getting the cooler lines to work.

There is a second "collar" molded into the plastic of the "original" coolant level sensor near the tip that I had to trim down. That is the only mod I needed to perform.

This rad even comes with the little o-rings and all necessary fittings.

Just my experience.

I used the exact same one and it went in really well. No problems at all.

 

[ajsmith184]

Got one done up by a local radiator guy for $250...I took mine out, took it to him..He looks at it, mutters something in spanish, walks to the back corner of his barn and climbs on a ladder...Gets to the top shelf, grabs an old dusty box..Pulls out a radiator..Had $250 written in perm marker on the box, that's what he sold it for. No complaints here...Ya win some, you lose some.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

At the crossroads now. Developed a pin-hole leak over the last few months. After driving and parking, it might leak 1/8 cup on driver's side while still hot and then it shuts off once cooled. Imagine thermal expansion is bending some seam open just enough.

Plan on driving from VA to the GA rally this fall so thought I would get it fixed before it gets worse.

Still on the fence as to whether have a rad shop fix the leak or go the Advanced Auto route for $280.

If you have one pinhole you know about, how many more are waiting to pop?

If you put, say, $150 into the repair route, and it goes blooey on your way to GA, you are going to hate yourself. That $280 is going to start looking pretty cheap when you're sitting by the road waiting for a tow truck.

 

[Mainsail]

I'm in the same boat- small pinhole leaks that I sealed with some stop-leak for the time being. Still leaking somewhere I think. I've been holding out for one of the aluminum ones but the three-core ones are out of stock.

 

[markx250]

Going down to see my friend Swiss is who is running the GA gig this year. He has a wrecker so if I break down, he is coming to get my a$$, even if I am still in VA! Understand the logic though and I will probably get a new one. Good thing I pulled the radiator ... front battery track needs some work and it started to crack the inner fender.

 

[markx250]

Mainsail, saw you mentioned aluminum. Went back and researched some old threads along with some googling. So the question is if 3 rows/cores are really need needed if you go to aluminum or would 2 rows suffice? In my case, light-duty, no turbo ... at least for now

Double checked the one that is leaking and it has 3 rows.

 

[markx250]

The aluminum radiator is 1/4" shorter than what I had in it, so I am going to need some new rubber for the mounting. Anyone have a good source. I guess I will get the tape measure out and do a mock-fit up to see what type of spacing I need to get a firm grip.

Never mind. Everything was good once I got the isolators lined up right. Fit is still a little sloppy. Need to add a little rubber sheet to the top isolators to snug it up.

All lines went in OK. Just need to fill it up and make sure it does not leak!