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I found this normal, there are exhaust pipes, plus the engine itself near. With the need for the brake lever to move both above and below, I never bothered to see if I could seal it..
US has a law called ITAR. International Traffic in Arms Regulations (most countries have something like that), that covers any military goods. This is why it says only sold in the US and to US Citizens, otherwise export clearance is required. (Yes, selling a vehicle like this to a non-US...
No idea if it's a good idea or not, but when I restored an old 1967, the old timer at the local muffler/radiator shop told me to just fill it with new (green) coolant and cap the ends.
I have the GuardDawg, I've had it for about 2 1/2 years now. No regrets. (easy to disable as well if something goes wrong, but not easy enough that a novice would just bypass it.)
I mounted the tires myself due to the two piece rims, and like the original post I was unable to find anyone who would balance them. So I ended up getting the centramatics. They're not perfect, but they are good enough that I really can't tell they're not balanced.
Just be sure when you mount...
There have been a few people who used the troop seats from a HMMWV to extend the sides, and then fabricated something for the front/back as needed. Other then taller walls, this also has the side effect of additional seating for (low speed) parade routes.
My arctic weather kit came with a chunk of plywood to 'insulate' the tunnel. As part of that were self tapping screws.. Through the holes in the plywood (pre-drilled) and into the metal below. Turns out that 3 of the 4 holes were already in my floor, so easy to line everything up.
As others...
That low of tire pressure absolutely destroys the sidewalls of the stock military tires.. I run my tires (after the first set experienced sidewall cracking) at 35 front/40 rear.. But I have an M998, not a completely different weight class... if I put a heavy load in it, I'll actually go DOWN...
On my rig, the head gasket started to fail, and exhaust was getting into the coolant which caused it to go out the overflow due to pressure. Soon after, huge amount of white smoke. Once I realized what was happening i got it to a mechanic for a new head gasket fairly quickly, no damage that we...
I don't like splicing or cutting any of the factory wires, unless I'm reparing something.
My using the connectors I avoided splices. The switch was to ensure that the regular diagnostic port would work in the future, if I needed it. (I do have a diagnostic device, but alas no software so I've...
I bought a set of new connectors, and double throw/double pole switch. So....
tach sensor on back of engine -> connector -> switch (with my tach) -> connector -> regular diagnostic port
or
tach sensor on back of engine -> connector -> switch (with my tach) -> tach
My understanding is this...
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