Recent content by Milcommoguy

Yea... I had to reword the "DIS" thing... making a funny as I interpret the text / logic. This simple system is backwards logic to the way many think? The module is shot (your black wire to ground, a solid state part let the smoke out) or the low side of the solenoid coil shorted (internally)...

I am not so sure the explanation / theory is correct. :unsure: I might not grasp how the term engage or disengage is being use here. Tobash how does it work? HELP. If at any time the Cadillac valve solenoid is 24 volts energized, the fan is disengaged. This is part of the fail safe design...

Well that's one way to test the switch ?? :roll: Be CLEAR... Truck would not start... BUT would engage / crank over engine. Did it start / engine running ?? Here my thoughts. No magic bullet, quickie fix to chase your gremlin. Ground on battery remove , IMO points to power being supplied...

He's right on the swapped wires. A cold truck would start, but once warmed up to temperature, would shut down when the cold advance switch opened up. Would have to wait for temp to drop back to a cold start condition. The Packard connectors for cold start has the ribs on it. All of those...

If I understand the response to be "NO" as this is an important starting point with the crazy symptoms. Got a non runner , but got it running, wont turn off unless one pulls the 5A lead on the fuel cut off solenoid. Walking it back ... all the obvious connections stated, switch, boxes...

Did you ever have the truck working correctly? Got to start from a know starting point, CAMO

Ding Ding Ding.... Back to your corners. Time out............ I don't see the drawing showing the transmission TC circuit with the normally closed contacts for the #810A & 810B wires, the little round plug associated with the TC switch left side of the failing or troubled switch to align...

Not sure if this is BIG upgrade. With every pound per square inch (PSI) placed on the cooling system, the coolant's boiling point raises approximately 3°F. It's getting HOT in here... so take off all your _______ radiator caps? CAMO

IMO... The edit for a 12 volt relay (are we talking coil voltage?) was correct with the 24 volt coil. Brake switch lead 74B to the coil other coil lead to ground. Normally closed contacts to the TC circuit. Add a EMF suppression diode across coil (1N4007) anode to the ground side, cathode to...

You could... simple. Just adds a little bit of juggling some wires around. This goes here and connect this one there and WAL-LA :roll: Fixed IT, CAMO

SSI is old OLD school. Old truck too, CAMO

AND this one will tug at your wallet, LOL Bow WOW, CAMO

See your fooling around in the White Mountains / Reward mine. Get some pickles in Big Pine, CAMO

Same thing here on a brand new tank a few years ago. Took it out and round canned it. Felt it would be more trouble to glue it back in as the poly plastic IMO has been hard to get a STRONG bond. So the fuel slooshesssss around. Rocking the boat and fuel, CAMO