Recent content by pitpawten

There are a couple of long threads here in the forearms that have that information by a member carnac, I think you could search the forums for your numbers or search for those threads and see what you find

Start by changing your transmission fluid out for some non detergent ISO 40 weight motor oil it made a difference in the shiftability of mine I definitely have an issue with the fourth gear synchro cuz I get a small amount of grinding no matter what I do going into fourth from top or bottom but...

I'll also add that I had a very similar symptom on my truck which turned out that the starter solenoid was on its way out and eventually welded itself open which eventually melted out a battery. So I don't think there's a shortcut for checking each piece independently, which really isn't that...

Work your way through the system: 1. Batteries full 12v each at terminals 2. Batteries full 24v at terminals when connected 3. 24v continuously at both ends of wire #7 4. 24v at wire #3 when start button depressed If 1, 2 or 3 are no check batteries, terminals and ground If all are yes but 4...

With my new gear reduction starter and fresh batteries on straight road diesel in the summer is maybe 2 revolutions (near instant)

If they do give you a (digital) copy of that manual (or others) would be great if you posted back here as well.

That's right only on the top left steering knuckle, bottom on both sides and top on right side are all bolts that thread into the knuckle from the outside (see the inset picture for the right side axle)

Yeah I would agree not to install underneath of the steering arm. These are studs coming from the knuckle, not bolts and there is a spacer ( 8 ) that needs to get greased from the zerks on top. The steering arm is designed to sit directly in to of the knuckle.

Hrm, don't have that one but do have this one which looks similar.

Great job @3rdmdqm looks great and I'm sure it will last. @G744 were you able to get a quote to 21617?

Just to close this loop I received my u-joint and it appears to be New Old stock with Rockwell branding on the box and stamped into the actual u-joint. It was actually missing two of the sea clips and there was some mild surface rest on the outside of the Caps which went away with a wire wheel...

So fuel all the way to the injection pump but nothing leaving the injection pump to the injectors when cranking is that right? That at least narrows you down to the IP with your troubleshooting. Admittedly not up on IP troubleshooting but I have to imagine there's a pretty good process for...

Yeah I'd say start with rocker covers off and see what your dealing with them go from there. If you're feeling ambitious you could pull more but start there and see what you can get moving freely that way... Just start : )

Just did all of mine and used the same, though I just kind of knew intuitively that the axle tube was bigger than the opening into the diff and tried the push down method. Glad it worked, good to have it on here for reference 👍

Closing the loop, ran the truck last Saturday and then had it on jack stands all week while doing hubs. This morning I cracked the oil drain plug and no water or coolant just nice oil so nothing drained down over the week. Here's to running it and torquing the heads having sealed up whatever...