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Deuce Outer Windshield Frame

3rdmdqm

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Woodbine Maryland
Currently restoring '68 M35a2 with a soft top. Have removed about 4 layers of paint, primer and rust from the outer windshield frame, which really isn't all that bad considering. My question is this, the frame appears to be several pieces put together, however they are all welded together and do not come apart (top, bottom, sides). There is something solid/heavy like a metal bar loose and sliding back and forth inside the top channel of the frame. There also appears to be rusted bolts that sheared off in some of the holes, and some holes appear threaded, yet others do not. Anyone know what is loose and sliding around inside? Is it the metal bar that has the threaded holes for the bolts in it that came loose on the inside on one side? If so, short of taking it apart, replacing the thread bar and rewelding it, can I just change over to self-tapping bolts/screws or just tap new threads for bolts in the smooth holes? I'm a bit perplexed as to the frame construction here. There are also what appear to be aluminum rivets in the center of each window frame on the top and bottom channels, not sure why they are for or what they secure, but almost ground one of them off. Thanks.
 

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BKubu

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Gaithersburg, MD
I have some M939 series windshields that you can reference. They won't fit your truck, but the installation should be the same. I am in Damascus if you want to check them out. I used to buy NOS windshields from Adirondack Dodge (they sold M37 windshields, but they are the same as yours). I am unsure if they are still in business, but theirs were correct (not Chinese BS) and reasonably priced (prices have no doubt gone up).
 

3rdmdqm

Active member
446
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Location
Woodbine Maryland
I have some M939 series windshields that you can reference. They won't fit your truck, but the installation should be the same. I am in Damascus if you want to check them out. I used to buy NOS windshields from Adirondack Dodge (they sold M37 windshields, but they are the same as yours). I am unsure if they are still in business, but theirs were correct (not Chinese BS) and reasonably priced (prices have no doubt gone up).
Thank for the information, I emailed Adirondack to see. The one I have is usable if I can figure out the "inner" design and makeup of the frame.
 

pitpawten

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Centreville, Maryland
Well timed post as I am about to do mine, most of my top screws either sheared, stripped out or I had to cut to get the windshield hinge off, so was contemplating just what you are now.

My thought was probably to drill out, weld over, grind down, and then re-drill/tap in the right locations... It's the only way to be sure : )

I would imagine the metal you hear was a backing plate of some kind which the top screws were threaded through which has delaminated or come unsecured.
 

3rdmdqm

Active member
446
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Location
Woodbine Maryland
I'm thinking the same thing. Other than this particular issue, overall, the frame itself is in pretty good shape with no significant rust as I have taken it down to bare steel. The rubber gasket under the frame was toast and the rectangular rubber plugs that screw into the bottom of each side were rotted, however I have new replacements for those. Be nice to figure out a work around without a lot of welding etc.
 

pitpawten

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Centreville, Maryland
I dug around in my stash, and do indeed have a decent outer frame for the M35.

Free for shipping from AZ.

Dennis
Dennis, I think 3rdmdqm has first dibs since this is his thread but mine turned out to be worse off than I had thought, any idea on shipping cost to MD 21617 if he passes?
 

3rdmdqm

Active member
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Location
Woodbine Maryland
I dug around in my stash, and do indeed have a decent outer frame for the M35.

Free for shipping from AZ.

Dennis
That is very kind of you sir, thank you so much. What would the shipping cost be to 21797 area code? I see Pitpawten is in need also, I am going to try to use a scope camera and see if I can fish the thread bar into place and snag with bolts and re-rivet in place to make mine work. If I can do that I may be good, if I can’t and it’s unusable I’ll take you up on it. I’ll know shortly. Thank you so much.
 

3rdmdqm

Active member
446
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43
Location
Woodbine Maryland
Current situation, hopefully this helps someone else. So, pitpawten you are correct, there are two steel thread bars riveted to the inside bottom of the top frame channel, one on each side. The rivets on mine had rusted/rotted on one side and partially on the other, which meant the bar on one side was roaming free. After a lot of finagling, I was able to get the holes lined up with the threads, and using a tap to clean up the threads, got a #10 1/2" x 10/32 thread bolt started to get the bar in line. After doing this to all of the threaded holes, I am back in business. I still have to drill out the 3 bolts that had rusted and snapped off when removing, re-tap those and then drill out the rivets (2 each side) and re-rivet securely, however the thread bars are securely in place with temporary bolts. Attached are photos of the progress, what it looked like when it came off the truck, then taken down to bare steel, and what it currently looks like with primer and the new temporary bolts. If you look closely, you can see where the welded curved bar that secures the soft top channel is pitted and rusted completely through with holes in some places, however it is for the most part still intact and sturdy but may need to be replaced at some point.

G744, thank you for the offer of the windshield frame, but I think I should be able to use mine now and defer to pitpawten if he is in need.
 

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