Recent content by Plasa

Hello dear forum. I have a small oil leak near the pto hydraulik pump, nothing big but annoying. I do not see where it can came from, does anyone have an idea? Trans or hydraulic oil? Thank you for any help!

Agree. But since my friction on the hand throttle isn't reliable and on bumps turns back slowly, I was thinking to eliminate the friction, insert a returning spring and keep it in place with a electric magnet. Connected to the brake pedal and it should be done. You can enable it by a push button...

It was also my idea, or even simpler, with a electric magnet to keep the hand throttle in place. But than you don't have a cruise control, just a "keep the throttle at that place".

Yes, they are pretty clear, I was not expecting that. Did a test after I rebuild the head, I did not hear any diffrence when running in idle, it can be that loads a little faster than before. Christian

After 8 years owning an LMTV I can confirm that nothing on this tucks will be permanent, except the constant maintenance tasks. If you think you found all the gremlins I can bet there are a lot more waiting for you ;-) What should be intresting is what haldex says about preventive rebuild of...

Definitly. What wrench did you use to close the 3 bolts that connects the flange to the flywheel housing? I changed them to normal hex screws because the original ones are difficult to tight up... Christian

I will bring this topic to the first page. On my starter 2 of 5 bolts where broken and only 3 of them hold the entire starter in place. All of them where loose. Christian

Thank you all, you saved me from a bigger damage! My LMTV have 50000 miles, air system without big leaks. But anyway I discovered a broken spring: I doubt the the new springs will survive forever, so my question is: after how many miles it should be rebuild again? Christian

This for sure. It's MIL standard, and not just a brick of diy electronic... Christian

Sent you a PN... :-)

Getting the board inside the dash is quite easy, the buttons can also be single buttons, in total 6 wires... I would keep the original connection plug as it's easier to handle. Christian

One solution could be to check if pressure when inflating is below the preset. This means that there is not enough pressure in the tank and that the tires will deflate instead of inflate. Doing so it can be avoid that the pressure in the wet tank gets below a critical level. Than it can be used...

That's easy, it's just inverting the boolean value. But it's a risk because with no signal the controller thinks he have full tanks. So there is no protection against wiring failures. Christian

Hello! Yes, I use the wet tank input switch. There is no need to change any logic input, the original one close the signal to ground at 120 and reopens at 80 or something like that. At least you use a switch to ground you can use anything. Important is that it's closed to ground when you want to...

Yes, they work also on A1R because no connection to the can bus is needed. The CTIS is almost isolated from the rest, except the speed sensor signal. But that I do not use. I also rebuild the controller to be more failure save against electrical issues. Plus it now have 5 presets instead of 4...