Recent content by spectre6000

I don't think that would work in this case. The new mounts are considerably larger than the original ones.

The mounts I ordered are what LMC lists as their 84-(something later) mounts. No differentiation between van, two or four wheel drive, etc. If I were to attempt to modify the mount brackets to fit the mounts, I'd be doing some seriously extensive modification... The lower holes are almost over...

I have a mechanically rock stock '84 M1009, and I've been on a rebuild kick. I went to put in the new engine mounts today, and the ones I ordered from LMC (I just cross referenced my receipt to the catalog and made sure I ordered the correct parts) do NOT fit. They're a bit too long and instead...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgQki37uXoQ

I was walking toward my driveway just now and noticed that my new 33X10.50 tires fill the front wheel wells out nicely (the outside of the tires is even with the body). The rears are narrower than the body though... Tires are the same front to back, wheels are the same offset, the body work is...

LOL! Yeah. Add plastic to that. I've already done all the engine rubber (mounts will be this afternoon or tomorrow depending on when I get around to it, and that's the absolute last rubber anything in the engine compartment). Electrical everything is my next big issue.. I enjoy automotive...

I'm having issues like that all over my truck. Everything plastic or rubber has turned to chalk. The gauge cluster practically crumbles if you look at it wrong. The Arizona heat did NOT do these trucks any favors... At least there's no rust though.

Could you take some photos of the disassembled steering column? I have a project coming up, and finding photos to figure out what to expect don't seem to exist.

A little insight into my specific process: Obviously, it helps to start with a pretty comprehensive understanding of automotive electrical systems. Using this knowledge, stare at the schematics for a while, stare at the truck itself for a while, press buttons, use your multimeter if you need to...

Any suggestions for gauges? The stock gauge assembly is crumbling like wet chalk, and it needs to be gone ASAP. I'm probably going to fab something up in a more or less stock shape, but with more useful things in a more useful arrangement.

Going 12V. Already have the starter, and the only reason it's not already 12V is because I wanted to get the truck running before I introduce any additional variables and to thoroughly familiarize myself with the vehicle, the engineering vernacular, layout, etc. I'm probably going to keep the...

Most of my vehicles are much older than my CUCV, and whenever I acquire something new I always replace the wiring harness as a matter of course. Always. I didn't once, and ended up on the side of the road in the Arizona desert in July with the charred remains of a minor engine fire hacking...

We thoroughly tested it indirectly, and there is NO WAY it was even close to over heating at its hottest. My best guess when we were using all the equipment was that there was an air bubble at the sensor. Now I'm sure it's burped, and nothing is any hotter than it was. I don't intend to run a...

Regarding the coolant sensor for the warning light (the one at the front of the DS cylinder head): I made sure to buy the correct sensors for warning lights versus gauges all around, but I'm beginning to think I might have received the wrong sensor in this application. If I start the truck...

Here's the geek answer: The low coolant module card consists of essentially a harmonic oscillator circuit (the big 14 pin chip) and a circuit to check the return signal (the high tolerance 100K resistor). The harmonic oscillator sends a signal to the capacitive sensor at the radiator at a high...