Recent content by Wreckclues

Long story short, the fuel tank on my M813 rotted out, check out my recent post on "What have you done to your 5-Ton" Pictured are my old and replacement tanks side by side. The dimensions are the same just the fuel pickup points and plate size are different and there are no vent holes...

Pulled the fuel tank on my M813 this weekend preparatory to a new...ish one coming up from Eastern Surplus. Used a Rube Goldberg suction rig to drain the last of whatever was in the tank because fuel it was not. Couldn't figure out why my "fuel" was always opaque. The tank rotted out under the...

Found this unit in "Cummins Diesel Engines Unit Shop Manual...Bulletin No. 3379084" Labeled "Manual shut-down valve" but whenever I search for one all I can find are the emergency shutdown valves. Looks like a modified solenoid. Does anyone know where I can source one of these?

Too funny, when I was airing up last year, found one of the duallies had zero air pressure but wasn't flat. As far as I could tell it had always been that way with me repeatedly crawling over a stone wall in my yard and driving around town...go figure. :)

Update: Tearing into my checklist I found that the gasket between the fuel filter bell housing and the upper part may not have been diesel certified, it had swollen to the point that it no longer fit the groove. Also found the water trap petcock was clogged solid. Currently waiting on new...

This video describes the Solenoid. What it doesn't mention is the big screw in the middle of the valve. This is to make the solenoid fully manual. There's a knob on the outside of the pump. Screw it all the way in to bypass the solenoid.

Welcome to the Green Metal Psychosis from the 5 Tons...

Thanks guys, next steps are; 1. re-re-rebuild the fuel side of the pump, replace all the O-rings in the filter and test each fuel circuit for air using the transfer pump. 2. Detach the muffler 3. Before sending the pump out for testing, open the "house" cover and see what's going on with the...

Ran her directly from a boat tank connected to a compressor. She will not start from the fuel tank or with the exhaust pipe attached. Even with the pipe off it's a hard start. Ran clean fuel and Sea Foam injector cleaner through the injectors. At first couldn't get her over 600 RPM but later got...

It is part of the "tamperproofing" With the nuts missing could engine vibration over time have worked the screw and throttle shaft out of alignment? If so what direction should I turn the screw to get the angle between idle and full throttle back to 32 degrees? Rust, if the screen filter in...

Dang! I wanted to use the electric pump to prime the PT pump and fuel rail before startup

[ QUOTE="WillWagner, post: 2607117, member: 2057"] There is supposed to be a closed end lock nut about an inch or so long on the screw sticking out of the pump body at the rear of the house shaped cover on the pump. This?

Yup, replaced it. Looked like the interior was coated with rust, however there was no metal on the magnet. So aside from the lift pump delivering fuel to the rail, what is it in the fuel manifold that requires the engine to be spinning for fuel to flow?

This is what I have from Idle to Full Throttle