Recent content by Wreckclues

Dang! I wanted to use the electric pump to prime the PT pump and fuel rail before startup

[ QUOTE="WillWagner, post: 2607117, member: 2057"] There is supposed to be a closed end lock nut about an inch or so long on the screw sticking out of the pump body at the rear of the house shaped cover on the pump. This?

Yup, replaced it. Looked like the interior was coated with rust, however there was no metal on the magnet. So aside from the lift pump delivering fuel to the rail, what is it in the fuel manifold that requires the engine to be spinning for fuel to flow?

This is what I have from Idle to Full Throttle

Hard start and no power, couldn't get her over 1000 RPM with no pedal response. After about 5 minutes it would die. Fuel filter a line was still full of fuel. Checked for air, replace the fuel filter and housing, just to be sure. Cleaned all O-ring mating surfaces and replaced the O-rings, no...

Why are you doing this? Static fuel test to determine if the fuel rail is blocked. The pump is connected directly to the fuel rail, bypassing the PT pump and shutoff valve. The engine is not running (static test), so the injectors are not cycling, and fuel flow is limited to what passes...

Should the fuel line from the shutoff valve to the fuel tank remain pressurized after shutting off the fuel pump? Also what kind of return should I expect from the fuel return line with an input pressure of 75 psi; a drip, a trickle or a gusher? Troubleshooting the hard start, low power and...

Welcome to the green metal psychosis, there's no cure, so spread it around...

My 20V Hercules High Impact Model delivers up to 1,200 ft-lbs of breakaway torque and 700 ft-lbs of fastening torque for tightening. I changed my front wheels without problem using an 8 AH battery pack...of course I did soak the lugs with penetrating oil for 6 months first :rolleyes:

The back plate is 6 7/8 inches off the step but the gap between the back plate and the cab body varies because the step cover sits diagonally to the cab body. There's about a quarter inch gap on the engine side while the opposite would likely hit the cab body if it lined up.

I've got metal boxes and just purchased the cover which fit fine...after hammering the box back into a square. Bonus, the rust matches the rest of the truck's rust.

Installed a 24 Volt, 3-8 psi fuel pump, bypassing the PT pump, to charge the fuel rail prior to starting and diagnose what my RPM issue is. To recap she's hard starting and I can't get her over 1000 RPM. Also addressed a bent nipple on the fuel shutoff valve that caused a misalignment of the...

Installed one of Big Mike's engine block heaters. He advertises it as "ENGINE BLOCK HEATER FOR M809, M939, AND M939A1 MODELS w/NHC 250 CUMMINS - EBH250". The instructions say it's for Cummins (855 CID) engine series with side plate, which I assume covers our engines. The heating element on my...

Took Juanprado's advice and bent back the wings to the radiator petcock to take it out with a socket wrench. Found that the petcock on my spare fuel/water separator was the same size...saved a little cash.

Had a similar problem with my M813, turned out to be a rotted out pick up tube in the tank.