Recent content by WWRD99

That should work fine. Don't solder it though use a crimp connector. Also might want to check the other truck and see if it melted the fusible link too. Just a suggestion for these links...go through the truck and see what size you have on them and buy a few just so you have spares. There's 2 on...

That plastic part just tells you the awg size. It doesn't need to be there. Can definitely splice it to restore power to the alternator. Test the cut wire for power before you splice it to make sure you went up high enough on the wire. They can burn in more than one place. Sent from my SM-S906U...

Thats it just need one with a 20 awg on it! Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

I don't see why you can't go bigger. The main point I need you to understand is....the wire from the 12 volt block to the plastic part....is a fuse....not a normal 20 awg wire. It must be replaced with the same 20 awg fusible link wire that is there now. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

We're almost there. I think it's a touch of a language barrier and how wires are sized between our countries. No problem though. The plastic cylinder is just a marker, not a fuse. The wire itself, is the fuse...here we call them a fusible link. If it is over loaded it melts to break the...

Reading your original post about swapping alternators to another truck and it failed as well I would say something in that alternator is not right. I think you state it was just rebuilt so to me it sounds like the regulator is faulty when it gets hot or an insulator inside is touching the case...

I zoomed in on your pic and you can see where the red insulation on the wire is almost gone. That is probably where the fusible link is burned. Give that a tug and it'll probably pull out. In a pinch you can cut that out and attach it back to the other end for a quick fix but still want to...

Perfect. That black cylinder has a number on it that tells you the guage of the fusible link that it is. It might have a 16 or 18 on it depending on size...thats all that cylinder does...its a marker/indicator. I'm not sure about the alternator side though as to what is not connected? Unless you...

I think the wire you need to repair is the red wire in the 2 pin white connector....tough to tell by reading it. The big wire that is bolted to the back is the voltage output wire that is big and goes to the firewall with a plastic cylinder in it which is a fusible link. If that wire needs...

So the reason people do this is to get rid of the 30 amp fuse in the box since it melts and is tough to keep the fuse powered on both sides. I find it easier to just open up the connector inside the box instead of reinventing the wheel with this wiring. So from what I can tell they took the 12...

Not to bring up the past but back in February I mentioned to put a clear fuel line on the ip return. Blockage is easy to find. The steel line hooked to the ip line goes right under the passenger side alternator with a rubber hose connection. Can start there and see if fuel flows. Can jump...

The carter I've installed in 4 cucvs now. Not sure what you're old one was. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Ok. If the relay is clicking then you're testing the wrong side. You need to cross the 2 wires on top of the relay. They're the controlled side. If you have a volt meter with the key on the red wire on top should have 12 volts. Maybe the fuse going to that wire doesn't have power. Sent from my...

You know if the starter is clicking or the glow plug relay? What's clicking. The doghead relay shouldn't be clicking. If you can jump it underneath at the starter, then giving the same wire power should start the truck. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

You should be able to jump the big red and purple wires on top of that relay and get the starter to go. Fat screwdriver works. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk