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The relay is for alternator 2. The gen 1 light has to turn on with the key...off when running. From what I read it is coming on while driving. Unplug the 2 pin connector and test for power with the key on....not plugged in. Should have battery voltage. If you do then rebuild the alternator. Can...
That sounds right to me. I like to start at 18 inch lbs and wiggle from there. It takes a bit to find if it shifts how you want it to. If you can't nail it down right how you want it then it might need to mess with the governor.
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I don't know what the pod and hw is but it's a standard round distributor gasket at the block ..paper usually. Pretty sure a small block Chevy gas engine fits too.
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No I'm thinking of my 1028 not my 1009. It isn't revving high but bogging down if shifting into 3rd at 25 mph. Way to low. But I guess if youre happy with that low shift point just leave the trans how it is. Any change you make will only raise shift points as I don't think you can make them any...
They come off the block and go right to the crossover pipes to the radiator. Confused as to what needs routed? Are you missing parts trying to figure out what you need?
Yes the vacuum does the normal load up shifting points from the throttle. So when I tuned in my last vacuum modulator...I got an adjustable one...I set the no load upshift to 2nd at 23 mph and the third at 45 mph. Granted the 45 can be a pain if the speed limit is 35 but I just push it a touch...
Is it a truck or blazer?
I assume truck. This sounds like they have the springs and weights to light in the governor and it's keeping line pressure to high for the throttle to overcome. On the test side what is the vacuum at the modulator set at. Could be to low.
Ohhh now I see where you're at. There's a slot that you can pop a pocket screw driver in and push in the lock retainer. That's odd that is in that truck. I think you can use the new style with the bolt but not sure. Might be easier to get the older style.
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Well I got nothing for ya then. I've rebuilt dozens of these straight columns and tilt ones and never had a problem pulling them out. You shouldn't pull on that cover just pull on the key wiggling it around to get it to release.
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Ohh so the switch on the column needs adjusted. Light's work without the key. The metal rod that goes down to it...does it move far enough to hit the start end of the relay? I don't think I knew about a column rebuild...no biggie. Get that adjusted right and see what happens.
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