EESS PCB replacement for the HMMWV ?

I have 87 m998 that was refurbished prior to my purchase from GOvPlanet. Has green KDS EESS, and everything worked great until The other day. I was installing a key ignition switch and connected wrong wire, now wait to start light doesn't work. Still starts but no wait light. Voltmeter shows no continuity across wait light wires. Could the wait light be fried? How to get it out from behind the top of the dash? Thanks

I got the wait light back to working after fixing a broke connection and finishing key ignition install. I hope I never have to replace the wait light or brake light, the dash does not look easy to get behind.

jbm998 said:

I got the wait light back to working after fixing a broke connection and finishing key ignition install. I hope I never have to replace the wait light or brake light, the dash does not look easy to get behind.

Click to expand...

Its easy it's 4 bolts and 1 screw
glad you got your issue fixed!

I have a 1989 m998 that will not start , shorted wire for injector pump and engine will not start now. Do these boxes have to be matched to vehicle or certain years that need different boxes.. Also any way to bypass this starting system an just use a momentary switch for glow plugs or rewire the engine similar to a chevy or gm with that engine in it ??? Weave88

Retiredwarhorses said:

I have S3 EESS boxes with new temp senders for $350.00
the boxes are used takeouts that have been tested...I know, cuz I tested them.
I have new in the box for 600.00

Click to expand...

Have any more of those boxes brother? I know this is an older post.....just checking. Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Still can't believe that this isn't a Sticky. They should make one with Retiredwarhorses consolidating all the wisdom he dropped on us within the 7 pages of posts.

Anyway, swapped a one for one between two (fully functioning) machines. One with the old PCB & GPC, the other with the newest S3 and TSU. I ran them before beginning, both had a solid yellow wait light and both started immediately in 40 degree weather. I completed the box swap, but didn't do the GPC & TSU swaps. I decided to try to start them both. The one with the new S3 box and old GPC had a blinking wait light, but started fine. The one with the old PCB box and new TSU had no wait light and didn't start. Obviously, I'll swap the TSU and GPC out tomorrow and it'll be just fine.

Question, how jacked up is it to leave the new S3 box with the old GPC if it is working fine, just with a blinking yellow light instead of solid?

A GPC and a TSU are completely different parts, a GPC in a truck with an S3 will get a flashing wait lamp, and that's it, the glowplugs don't energize....but then again, I've never metered them in this scenario. The flashing wait lamp is fault because the box doesn't see the TSU.

GPC First pic 12338772 Nartron TSU second pic....KDS CR2696A, And CR2696

Here are pics that will hopefully clarify some questions for us novices tackling this job for the first time. Notice the GPC and TSU look identical and utilize the same harness. Once I married the proper units with their boxes everything worked perfectly. Thanks, Retiredwarhorses and the others that contributed to this!

would like to just forget the box and split the systems up. Any ideas... should be more dependable and much simpler?

Pcb

I tried to get onto your website and it seems to not be working. Anyways, do you still have the used pcb's for $350? I am trying to get my truck starting reliably and I ain't having any luck so far.

Chalvo said:

I tried to get onto your website and it seems to not be working. Anyways, do you still have the used pcb's for $350? I am trying to get my truck starting reliably and I ain't having any luck so far.

Click to expand...

Who’s website?

Retiredwarhorses said:

Who’s website?

Click to expand...

Your website. www.RetiredWarHorses.com I tried to view your products and see what you had to offer in your store. The links didn't work. It wouldn't let me leave the homepage.

Ahh, sorry, website is still under construction...my inventory changes constantly, so Best is to call the shop or PM me here.
i have no boxes right now...they are getting difficult to get as Nartron and KDS went to battle, seems Nartron won out and all new boxes will be Nartron only, and they raised the price to 8-900ea

Anytime you want to have a retro-pricing sale, I'll put in an order to purchase 100 PCB or EESS at $350.00/unit, LOL

Retiredwarhorses said:

I have S3 EESS boxes with new temp senders for $350.00
the boxes are used takeouts that have been tested...I know, cuz I tested them.
I have new in the box for 600.00

Click to expand...

how do I tell if my starting box and my tsu are a matching set>?any body knows how to tell.

Retiredwarhorses said:

I have S3 EESS boxes with new temp senders for $350.00
the boxes are used takeouts that have been tested...I know, cuz I tested them.
I have new in the box for 600.00

Click to expand...

how do I tell if my starting box and tsu are a matching set.

California Humvee said:

how do I tell if my starting box and tsu are a matching set.

Click to expand...

TSU’s are backwards compatible for any version of EESS. The TSU will say “temperature sending unit” on the device itself

Retiredwarhorses said:

TSU’s are backwards compatible for any version of EESS. The TSU will say “temperature sending unit” on the device itself

Click to expand...

I got a problem not starting, I put new glow plugs, new TSU , new S3 box , I got fuel on the injectors , box is going doing the cycle , vehicle is on park, all it does it just turns white smoke is coming out of the pipe . but it wont start. WHAT I M DOING WRONG.

i put new s3 box new tsu , new glow plugs , i got fuel on the injectors , vehicle is on park, truck it just turns but it wont start, what else do I do ? this truck is driving me nuts. white smoke coming out pipe as I crank engine. is there a sensor some where thart may be bad.