EESS PCB replacement for the HMMWV ?

[tigertank]

OK minr starts and runs perfect right now I have a KDS box black n shiney but is it really necessary to do the smartstart I guess its the S3? or should I just get one and keep it for when it does go out?

 

[gcbennet]

My point of view is if it aint broke, don't fix it. However, the S3 (smart start system) has some perks. In theory will extend the life of the glow plugs by only activating them when required, and eliminates two minutes of V-guage bouncing. Not too sure what other advantages there are.

 

[tigertank]

makes sense im leaving it alone lol

 

[CATONY]

M998 grrrr

I went thru and cleaned all possible connections from the battery to the starter to the engine and alternator.
WAIT light still just blinks between 8-23 times and starter clicks several times.
What should I try next?
Could it be the S3EESS Smart Start box?
Does the Engine wiring Harness need to be replaced?
Do you think the Starter is bad?
So disappointed at this point....
Can't figure out why the WAIT light just blinks and why it won't start...?

It Has new GP's, PCB, GPC, and clean connections from what I can see....

-Anthony

You're good on your PCB and GPC if your starter solenoid is clicking, so you have other problems. This is probably a stupid question, but are you sure you've hooked your batteries up in series, and that those batteries are charged? Sounds like it's trying to run on 12V instead of 24. There are diagrams on the web, but basically, the cable coming off the block with fins mounted on the side of the battery box goes to the negative [-] of Battery 1. The cable coming off the stud going through the battery box wall towards the front of the battery box goes to the positive [+] on Battery 2. Then jumper the remaining two terminals to one-another (one will be +, the other -, and obviously on different batteries.)

You also could have the Infamous Ground Problem, so check all your connections. Go underneath and check the physical connections to the starter and make sure both ground and battery + are good and clean. Also make sure the starter bolts are in their tight, and that the fore-end mounting nut is there and tight (sometimes that falls off, or is left off by lazy mechs, and the starter will torque under load and sort of jam.)

Go under the hood and run a jumper ground (set of decent jumper cables works) between a nice, paintless piece of engine metal and one of the studs/ bolts that mounts the PCB. After you've done all that, try start it again.

There is lots and lots of information on Steelsoldiers already concerning this and other common HMMWV problems. Check the 'Stickies' first. I've had starter problems before which were basically just tired starters, and/or solenoids with contacts that were worn out 15 yrs ago.

 

[gcbennet]

Before you start dumping lots of cash on replacement parts go through the troubleshooting guide in the unit maint TM book 1. It will at least help narrow down where to focus your attention. I'd recommend using a multi-meter and checking that the power gets to where it's supposed to, in my case it the power stopped at a corroded wire in the S3 cannon plug in the engine comp't.

 

[Mike82ndABN]

You mentioned it just clicking, what exactly is clicking? The box itself or the starter? Does it click on and off, like it is cycling? or is it a fast clicking?

When my truck had old batteries, I would turn it to run, then try to start, and the box would just click several times, very fast. What does your battery gauge show on the dash? Even if it looks good, the batteries might not have enough juice to crank it under load.

If the starter/solenoid has issues, you would hear a click from the starter itself.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

There is still a problem of people using the term PCB and GPC and EESS is the same posts...I will say it once more..
The PCB and GPC is the old problem ridden box. If you have an EESS, no matter who makes it, you MUST replace the old GPC with a TSU "temp sender unit"

read my post I put up yesterday....I asked the mods to make it a sticky, but no response.

if you really so have a PCB and GPC....replace it with an S3 EESS and matching TSU.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I went thru and cleaned all possible connections from the battery to the starter to the engine and alternator.
WAIT light still just blinks between 8-23 times and starter clicks several times.
What should I try next?
Could it be the S3EESS Smart Start box?
Does the Engine wiring Harness need to be replaced?
Do you think the Starter is bad?
So disappointed at this point....
Can't figure out why the WAIT light just blinks and why it won't start...?

It Has new GP's, PCB, GPC, and clean connections from what I can see....

-Anthony

IMO, If the starter were bad, the wait light would function normally. Have you tried to jump the starter with a jumper?
pos stud to small tab on the solenoid.
you need to be more clear on this clicking...clicking to me sounds like dead batteries. If it were a bad neutral start switch, you would get nothing...as if it's in gear. Is you EESS and temp sender you replaced new? Or used? Did you replace the the temp sender in the water crossover on the passenger side?has a bunch of wires coming out of it.

 

[HMMWVwaitGuy]

Doh

Drove my 87 M998 home from the holding company in some substantial rain yesterday. In route the brake and wait to start lights started random blinking then illuminated solid. Drove 70 miles home and parked it in the barn, now the brake light comes on when trying to start but wait light is dead. No noise just power to elec. systems. I feared I had a short, I probably do. Will check all grounds and build a harness, attached is a pic of my PCB, it says smart start.... Is this an upgraded unit? Any further ideas? Looking to order new glow plugs, will try for the nonshrink if I can find them. Thanks gents!

 

[DatGuyC]

That S3 box is the latest and greatest version. Sounds like you fried your box though.

 

[HMMWVwaitGuy]

Oh man.

 

[DatGuyC]

You could always take the box out and take it apart and see whats blown. If fixable it will probably cost less than a new S3 box.

 

[2w091]

Is this a newer one?

 

[DatGuyC]

yep, if it says smart start then its newer. You can also tell because they have the small testing port on the front.

 

[HMMWVwaitGuy]

I began removing the lid to the PCB and water came streaming out, I do believe you guys broke the code! At least I know the problem, any suggestions for a replacement based on the previous waterlogged model? Also where can I find these nonshrink glow plugs? Thanks

 

[HMMWVwaitGuy]

http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/hmglplcoprco.html. ?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

If the EESS is full of water, I doubt it had anything to do with that rain you were in...it was probably already there from sitting in storage...there is a foam donut that is supposed to be used on the EESS boxes, it goes on the top plug between the box and the body, this donuts prevents water intrusion...it's a known issue that water was getting into the boxes without the donut...I believe it was in PS magazine. You can also silicone up the area around the cannon plug once the box is installed, If you don't have the donut you can make one...take you box out and see if the donut is present.
i have opened my fair share of boxes and found water in them....

 

[Wile E. Coyote]

As has been said - latest and greatest box - but either you have a ground problem or the box is full of water. Given what I've had happen before...I'm guessing the latter of the two.

 

[HMMWVwaitGuy]

Affirmative. Thank you.

 

[samuraicrawler]

EESS box

So I see post after post about this problematic box. Is it the time of the year or are they just junk? My trucks always ran great and now all the sudden it won't start. My wait light does not come on at all so I'm pretty sure sits my box but I also have a couple other strange issues. Last week when my box went out I was able to start the truck later in the day when the temp was a little higher and after turning it over for about 30 seconds . But whats confusing to me is that on the same day my left brake light stopped working and my batteries completely drained. I charged the batteries up nice and strong and the next day they were dead again. I replaced the batteries and again the next day they were dead. Will a bad control box drain batteries? And is it just coincidence that my brake light went out the same day?